Faught

OK guys I have owned my 99 Trans am for over a year now and it currently has 160K miles on it, everything is original besides the exhaust I have LT and a 3" catted system all the way back. I have bin saving for a while and I want to amp this DD up. It will be a while b4 I can do any of this, but it is good to have a plan set. here is my problem, I don't know what rout I want to go. I really want a Procharged car; always have, so that is a must, but I'm not sure if I should just rebuild my ls1 or swap in something else. I was thinking of a Procharged 383 ls6 but would that be any better than a 383 ls1 or a proper h/c/FI ls1? I would also like to keep this car legal here in TX so I can still have it as a DD. I would also like to keep my A4 it is nice when driving in traffic and consistent at the track. I know ill need a 12 bolt as well and I would like to have some 323 gears, I have no need for something like 411's. the car might see the track once every other month. I would like it to get decent mpg like avg 17 or so(I get 22 now, i have a heavy foot ). Im not looking for a 600+ rwhp beast just something modest ~500 rwhp but will have the capability so that in the future I can ramp it up to be a track car.

edit: oh ya and I would like to stay away from forged pistons, I have heard they dont do so well with DD b/c they will rattle in the bore when cold.

JohnS Z28

iTrader: (1)

you said youve been saving...how much are we talking? budget is a big part...

Faught

well as of now I have 4K but like i said this will be a while I would like to do this for under 8K if I could, which makes me lean to rebuilding my ls1.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Realistically, $8k is a super small budget if you plan to rebuild the engine (with proper upgrades for an FI setup), install a supercharger kit, and upgrade the drivetrain (12 bolt, and don't forget the performance trans rebuild + higher stall). And at the end, you'll still need dyno tuning.

Frankly, you'll have to do all the labor yourself, and even then you'll have to cut corners and shop for some stuff used to get all that in under $8k.

Faught

Used parts are fine w/ me, I have used used parts on other projects with no problems 100K+ miles later. I can do most of the work myself, as for tuning, my brother owns a tuning shop so i get free tunes . the more i look at it my budget would be closer to 10K.

If I get some FI friendly heads and the prochager ya think i could get close to 470-500 rwhp pushing like 7 psi or so? also would a cam be necessary?

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

for a build like this id get everything ready.meaning,rear,susp and having your trans built as was posted already.


itll be worth it. just get everything done right the first time.

garygnu

you can make 500+hp with a NA 383.most after market pistons are forged.they have more clearence when cold because they expand more,then a cast piston.forged piston can handle more power,but if you can find a cast piton for a 383 it should work. the cast piston now a days can handle alot of power,as long as the rings are done right.do alot of research before you buy any thing,go to the boost section and contact bob at brute speed he sell procharger.317 heads ,bbk intake ,a custom boost cam,a hi volume fuel system.good luck and have fun with the can of worms you about to open.

Faught

i do have a buddy of mine that is willing to part with his new crate ls6 for 2500, kinda thinking about getting it, It would be cheaper than rebuilding my ls1 don't ya think?

garygnu

for forced induction you will need a bigger chamber head(317).consider a NA approach to save some change.a EPS cam cam make 430 hp with a valve train swap,add nos for more.sounds like a good deal.

my bandit

iTrader: (10)

if you could find me that for under 8k i would be shocked. ive seen used SC's go for about 3500, 12 bolts for 2000ish, trans rebuild about 2000ish and that about 8000 right there

Faught

tell ya what ill get this done for as close to 8K as i can, i think i can after talking w/ some of my "connections" I love having friends who work in high places

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Used procharger kit on 8-9# with injectors and pump possibly meth 3500-4500
used 9" or 12 bolt 1800-3000
Used/new Built 4l60 with coverter 1500-3500
Used Bolt ons 1200
Tune 300-600
That is your basics..

Should reach or exceed goal reliably. Back the boost down a # or 2 if you go over goal and want to stay even more safe.

Faught

well i have been looking at one of these monster transmissions super sport 4l60e, i have an extra 4l60e sitting in storage that i can send them (core charge stuff) add one of their 2800-3200 trq converters and i think that would be a nice start to collecting my drivetrain

blk/slvr02ss

iTrader: (21)

I Would buy the LS-6 and have the tranny rebuilt and do a 3600 stall and u will be good !LS-6 and Bolt-on's w/ Stall and good tires and u can run 11's w/ no problem !

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

You will be mad if you don't go 3600, I promise.

Faught

i had a z for a while(borrowed it form my cousin) and it had a 3600 and I hated how it drove, it was awesome at the track but horrible on the street for a DD. IDK maybe it was just me but when he backed down the power to about 450rwhp and had a 2800-3200 from circle D it was a lot more bearable on the street. Remember guys I'm not building a track only car here it will be driven almost every day on the busy TX highways and in town.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I drove around a 3500 stall all the time, it felt like stock to me after a short while.

But stall speed will be higher under boost. This is something to consider, since you plan forced induction.

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

my vig 3600 triple disc feels like stock. just get a quality converter.

blk/slvr02ss

iTrader: (21)

Yes My Yank SS3600 i did not really notice a big difference daily driving it but @ the track i was cutting 1.6's on Nitto 555R's !

Faught

hmm i wonder why his was so bad on the street.... ill try the 3600 but if I don't like it yall have to pitch in for my 2800-3200