10 Bolt Chances of blowing....
#24
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and just to clarify, the reason why 6 speeds are more prone to breaking the 10 bolt is because they have a stronger 'kick', right? because autos lag a little bit?
#26
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so if you have these on your fbody, this will help wheel hop a lot, right? so if you have an fbody making 400rwhp with lcas and relocation brackets with stock 10 bolt, you're fine?
and just to clarify, the reason why 6 speeds are more prone to breaking the 10 bolt is because they have a stronger 'kick', right? because autos lag a little bit?
and just to clarify, the reason why 6 speeds are more prone to breaking the 10 bolt is because they have a stronger 'kick', right? because autos lag a little bit?
It's the launch that's the hardest on the rear end with a manual. As far as shifts from 2nd to 3rd, an auto with no torque management and upped line pressure or a shift kit can be just as hard, if not harder on the rear end.
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thing is, you can break almost anything. Just go beat on it and try. I broke my 9in real bad one time too, few years ago. The driveshaft with the pinion still attached(it broke thewhole centersection) beat my floorboard up so bad the rear seat didnt fit and it bent the floor plate my kicker bars behind the seats are welded to. Not to mention it broke the trans bellhousing all the way around so basically nothing was holding it in...and this was all on one launch...haha
hell heres the video..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7GNi2QsCbk
so just go break parts, thats how you end up getting what you need!
hell heres the video..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7GNi2QsCbk
so just go break parts, thats how you end up getting what you need!
#29
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I like that answer. Theres a lot of factors, wheel hop, tires, suspension setup, etc. I wanted mine to last as long as possbile & take it to the track with the 10 bolt before having to upgrade. I wouldnt be afraid to run some kind of DR (MT or Nitto) & dont be afraid to do a nice burnout. Upgrade the flimsy stock torque arm & rear trailing arm setup to some tubular stufff from UMI or BMR. It makes a big difference launching the car getting that stock torque arm off that trans. If youre lowered control arm relocation brackets are a must to prevent wheelhop. Slipping the clutch is a must, now that I have a 9 I launch at 5500 dumping the clutch but I am sure the 10 would break, never tried it. I got some 1.8 60 times on my 3.73 10 bolt & put several
launches on the car with Nittos but I had a good torque arm, trailing arms & I slipped the clutch. I never wheel hopped either. This is with the stock aluminum driveshaft, which I wouldnt recommend now after I have seen a few pics of these grenading recently. After I went to the 9 I ended up selling the 10 for $275. The 10 bolt is weak but if done right it can handle some track abuse. Dont expect 1.5s & for it to hold up behind an M6, thats not gonna happen.
launches on the car with Nittos but I had a good torque arm, trailing arms & I slipped the clutch. I never wheel hopped either. This is with the stock aluminum driveshaft, which I wouldnt recommend now after I have seen a few pics of these grenading recently. After I went to the 9 I ended up selling the 10 for $275. The 10 bolt is weak but if done right it can handle some track abuse. Dont expect 1.5s & for it to hold up behind an M6, thats not gonna happen.
Last edited by flintwrench69; 03-10-2012 at 10:16 AM.
#34
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I've put my 10b through the paces, but I don't have wheel hop either. I can thank the suspension for that.
When the time comes, I will be looking for a strange 12b or 9", but more research will be needed.
Don't do a lot of launches, more into road racing...have 57k on mine. Dropping the clutch in this car at 3k rpm will do nothing but sit and spin anyway on street radials.
When the time comes, I will be looking for a strange 12b or 9", but more research will be needed.
Don't do a lot of launches, more into road racing...have 57k on mine. Dropping the clutch in this car at 3k rpm will do nothing but sit and spin anyway on street radials.
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thing is, you can break almost anything. Just go beat on it and try. I broke my 9in real bad one time too, few years ago. The driveshaft with the pinion still attached(it broke thewhole centersection) beat my floorboard up so bad the rear seat didnt fit and it bent the floor plate my kicker bars behind the seats are welded to. Not to mention it broke the trans bellhousing all the way around so basically nothing was holding it in...and this was all on one launch...haha
hell heres the video..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7GNi2QsCbk
so just go break parts, thats how you end up getting what you need!
hell heres the video..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7GNi2QsCbk
so just go break parts, thats how you end up getting what you need!
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#36
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Best thing you can do is replace the POS 10 bolt before you even go to the track. I took mine to the track (pic in sig) and everything held with a mild slip of the clutch. Virtually no burnout cause I didn't really want traction and a 2.0 second 60' later I ran the time in my sig. I was nervous every single launch/shift that I was going to break. Better off just pull the thing fully functional as stated to at least get some money out it. I ordered my MWC 9" and installed it before the 10 bolt had any problems.
#37
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Just do like I did when I still had a 10 bolt. Go ahead and get the Triple A premium plan. That way when you blow up your rear you get 100 miles of free towing. Your gonna need it.
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I have to agree. You say 10 years ago you did the rear end swap....so that is around 300.00 per year for a piece of mind if you spent 3000.00