On these cars, the top line is the return line. It's easy to tap into because the factory hard pipe is connected to a rubber line with a simple clamp. You can disconnect this rubber line at the clamp, use a male-to-male barbed fitting to connect your new rubber line to the factory rubber line, and then connect the outbound line of your new cooler directly to the flared factory hard pipe.

 

I got it installed!!!

I followed the advice, and to b honest it was very simple to do... Im very happy with how it looks and could immediately feel the heat when i had it in drive doing some leak testing.
I will post pictures tomorrow when theres day light...

Thank you all very much!!!

 

http://youtu.be/XQM5Jmwxgoo

Since i upgraded the Radiator to more heavy duty type, i ran the trans cooler in series.

Removed top return line from radiator, to inlet of cooler, outlet back to the return line to the tranny.

I was able to mount it in front of the condenser, BUT! i Left out the plastic cover that normally goes between the condenser and intake...

Will this be ok? Or do i need to put it back on?,

Thanks!

 

I was able to mount it in front of the condenser, BUT! i Left out the plastic cover that normally goes between the condenser and intake...

Will this be ok? Or do i need to put it back on?,


... Please let me know, Thx

 

The plastic cover you're asking about is part of the ducting that channels air from under the car into the condenser and radiator for best possibile cooling airflow. It's purpose is similar to the fan shroud but on the opposite end of the radiator. I would try to reinstall it if you can.

 

I think i might have pulled it out a lil rough, its kinda broken and brittle. Hope it doesnt have any cons to leave with out.

 

It diverts air from under the car UP through the radiator so I would run it but I guess if if your temps are OK you can do without it. I drilled a couple small holes in mine for the lines to pass thru....

 

Oh ok, so it is some what necessary for better air distribution... Speaking of that. I Debafled the hood, and its a straight shot to the air box now So more air is going in. I'll post the vid/pics of it...
But back to the black plastic duct divider, I guess I'll go to a scap yard and try to find one in better shape.

Thx

 

http://youtu.be/8CfkWLGCyPo

Not sure how much will it really help in cooling of trans cooler/Radiator, but i did it anyway.

Guess its a free Mod, and may or may not improve performance.

Input?...



Thx in advanced.

 

i think removing the baffles will cause a high pressure zone in the bay which will actually cause LESS air to move through the radiator. air moves from high pressure to low pressure. not to mention less downforce on the nose means less stability at higher speeds (you'll never notice this).

i'd put the air diverter back on at all cost, even duct tape holding it together. you need to direct air across the radiator/condensor/cooler otherwise it'll find another way by, this is why you see foam/rubber surrounding the radiator at the body of the car. the more air you can channel THROUGH the radiator the more efficient it'll be at transferring heat from the engine/HVAC/transmission.

 

Dammit!!!

I knew i should of done more research before drilling out the baffles... Sunavabitch.

Has anyone else done this with the scoops and gotten negative outcome?.

Please post!!!

 

Not me. I removed them from my old WS6 right when I bought the car. I then bought the best kit ever made (IMO) to seal the scoops to the hood (BG Ram Air). I drove it like that for 4 years until I sold it. No problems at all.

I would not worry in the least about removing the baffles. However, I would replace that air dam piece that you removed and damaged during the trans cooler install.

 

i agree that you probably wont have any problems with the baffles out, i was just stating that its probably not the "best" solution. if you already removed them dont sweat it. but for the **** people that can see the "big" picture simple things like pressure zones and their effects on things such as cooling/ram air/etc its worth pointing out. basically just giving you a heads up.

 

Thanks guys, I'll do a bit more research next time... I will be Re-Installing the ram air damper (plastic duct) back in.
I'll see if its still repairable.

 

The "big picture" here is that to have effective ram air (and true cold air induction) you have to seal the entire air intake path, from outside of the engine bay all the way to the throttle body, and remove any restrictions (such as baffles).

This would in fact be the best solution, as many of us that bought and installed BG ram air kits many years ago will tell you that we often gained about .5 to 1 mph of trap speed by doing so.

 

i kind of agree, ram air just means the air inlet is facing in front of the car so air is "rammed" into the intake tract at speed. to get the maximum effect from it, which would be completely cool outside the engine bay air, i agree it has to be sealed and unrestricted by baffles. i was talking soley on the other aspects of removing the baffles allowing air to flow where it wants to which would be right behind the radiator which would in my mind hinder flow through the radiator.

either way its probably not even worth talking about at any N/A performance level.

 

Tomorrow I'll be spending time to research where i can find one of these plastic ducts so i can install it.
I really thought it would be productive... Does GM Still make these, or any tips on where to look for one.
Starting off with salvage yards.

 

I was able to use the same duct dividor, wasnt as bad as i thought. After repainting they actually looked awesome.