shorty(98TA)

I really dont remember off the top of my head. I think the TDs and LTs together were around $2100, but I did all the mods in my sig with in like 8 months I just bought my current Fbody last spring so everything was going on so fast dont quote me on that price Id have to pull the paperwork out of my file cabinet to know for sure

Edit: just checked LTs were $869 and the TDs were $1585

AnotherBlackSS

TSP 1 7/8 with a ORY is a good setup overall. Pretty cheap too. If you want to spend a little more you can go with ceramic coated hookers. Ceramic coated is the way to go. Catback won't be a big deal, don't worry about that.

99fbodyTA

yea...throw some heads/cam on and a good exhaust system if you want big rwhp

SVTconfused

175 shot... done

99fbodyTA

true...but has he built his car for that

SVTconfused

he may or may not of... lol

TransAmWS.6

If that's all you're after, bolt-on's, tune and a stall will have you there, probably won't even need a cam

99fbodyTA

true...he did say he wanted 400hp after all

UAE_Z28

iTrader: (14)

For the new 5.0 mustang? Headers exhaust, and most importantly a Stall. For 400hp you will need bolt-ons and a cam.

Camaro_94

iTrader: (5)

Cam, full boltons, stall, gears, and a set of drag radials and it will wake it right up!

perf0rmance

iTrader: (5)

how about the CA folks....
is there a way to keep things SMOG legal?
I figure I'll skip on the headers since the only SMOG-compliant ones are shorties.

2002TransAmKid09

hey man i have the same dilemma. just recently sold a bad *** kit of tsunami cam and stage 2.5 LS6 heads to get something more streetable but want to be over 400 horse.. i have a buddy with a TSP 228 cam, trick flow heads, full bolt ons, M6 putting down 426 whp and 407 rwtq. another friend did the torquer V3 with stock heads and made out with 390hp and 370 tq. given there was room for pullies, and rear gear but id say if you did full bold ons, (Volant or SLP CAI, P+P TB, Underdrive pulley, LT Headers, ORY pipe or catted with GMMG exhaust or SLP loudmouth, then there is no reason you could make it over 400 and be happy

HowdyZ_28

iTrader: (4)

If what I've read from the posts above are true, what am I doing wrong (see sig)?!?!?

jarheadtex

iTrader: (2)

with my little cam, intake and exhaust I made 389/381....and it would beat my 5.0 but not by much.

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

The OP didn't state whether he wanted rwhp or at the motor. Bolt ons and a good tune will generally net around 335-345rwhp which is about 400hp at the motor give or take. The people saying you will need bolt ons with a good cam and a solid tune for close to 400hp are talking about RWHP.

STREETSLEEPER

iTrader: (6)

LS1 engines put out 400 HP at the flywheel right from the start. Look at several GM High Tech Performance cam comparisons. My last build for a friend included a Texas speed 228 cam or TR equivalent, a set of cooks headers and a aluminum intake and me on the tuner. That car put 401 at the rear wheels and 391 torque. Oh and a ASP underdrive pulley. That is all. Not everyone can tune really good so a bit larger of a cam might be a good idea. It doesn't take much for these motors. But remember to add all the right supporting mods like springs, push rods and so on. Getting to 400 RWHP will be damn near impossible with just bolts ons. Unless it's nitrous. LOL The intake is optional the LS6 intakes are great intakes but we used a alluminum intake after he blew the Ls6 intake with leaking nitrous soleniod. And the answere to the next question is " NO ". We did not use the nitrous on the 401 pull. The camshaft is key here. Talk to Geoff at EPS " Engine Power Systems " he founded the compamy with the word Thunder in it. And the brains behind the tr224 cam, and all the other cams they sell. Tell him your goals and he can grind you a cam that will sound like stock, be very easy to tune, and provide gobbs of HP and torque. I currently have the torquer V2 cam from Texas speed but it is a bitch to tune and a little rough around the edges. I have allready spoke to Geoff and he is going to come up with something that will fit my needs. Don't get me wrong this is a very streetable cam. All day long. But Geoff's forte is designing cams that pull like the big ones up top but will retain off idle and part throttle power and torque. Just what a street car needs.

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

I think you mean 350hp. Stock LS1's put down around 290-300rwhp and full bolt on and a tune LS1's put down around 340-350ish rwhp. If LS1's had 400hp at the motor from the start, stock they would be putting down 340-350rwhp.

GMtechmatt

Longtubes and a Y-pipe, Intake, lid and juice it

MikeWS6

I would say most put down right around 290-300 to the wheels stock. So 340-350 at the engine would be about right. 400 is a pretty big stretch. I guess you could make a dyno read how you want.

STREETSLEEPER

iTrader: (6)

. I have build a few of these cars ( 3 in the last year ) and the engines dyno more than you think. The exhaust and the tune is all that is holding these motors back. These are the same engines in the Corvettes of the early 2000's that make 340-350 with just an exhaust change. Of course the dyno numbers for engine testing would be with open headers and a revised intake system so that would produce more HP and TQ than one configured like the f-body set up. My point being these engines will make that number with very little done to them.