Plans for my (new to me) 99 SS
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Plans for my (new to me) 99 SS
purchased a beautiful 99 Camaro SS 6 speed Wednesday and wanted some feedback on my plans for it. Starting off is a Racetronix fuel pump module and their fuel pump rated for 400hp. Then some new window motors cause they are really REALLY slow. Going to have my trans built by Texas Drivetrain Performance. According to their website they Viper spec trans for $1380 if I bring it to them plus what ever they might find I need to replace while they are building it. Short shifter. This car already has an after market clutch. Keeping in mind that this is my daily driver some of these things wont be for tire ripping ZR1 power. I have an MPI intake right now with a K&N filter. Im going to keep that and put on an LS6 intake manifold but I dont know which Throttle body to go with. Also are there any options to get rid of that rubber boot between the intake box and throttle body? Next, SLP's kit with LT headers, Y-pipe, and High flow cats, finishing up with Corsa mufflers dumped before the Rear axle. I was thinking MS3 cam (any other suggestions are invited) and I dont know which heads to go with. I will be putting a 100 shot on it for those pesky Cobras. Suspension is basic with Eibach Pro kit. Pro kit springs and Anti sway bars. Brakes are brand new so Ill worry about that later. Cant forget wheels. C5 Z06 polished 18/9.5 front, 18/10.5 rear. Im in Fort Worth TX so after all this uhhh well spent money, where should I get a tune? Oh ****, almost forgot. Will I need to upgrade injectors and fuel rails? If so, Which ones? If you actually read all of this....Thanks.
#4
I would leave the SLP exaust alone if your planning on dumping your Corsa mufflers before the axle. SLP is overpriced and what you need is a Texas Speed Long tubes and their true duel mid pipes.
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Just looked them up, if I go true duel mid pipes how do I go about getting high flow cats in there?
#7
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A bitching clutch master cylinder. They're a sponsor on here as well. I don't remember all the details of the clutch, you would have to ask one of the guys who knows a little more about it than myself, but it's defintely worth the investment, also if you get that master cylinder for the clutch I would recommend the remote/speed bleeder. Just look up tick master
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#8
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Stick with the stock throttle body, or send it to Shaner to get it ported & polished.
There are a few ways to change the flex tube between the lid and the intake - SLP makes (or made) a replacement smooth tube, or you can do a search for "Fernco mod" on here and try that. It's really for cosmetics only, won't help make any more power.
MS3 cam isn't one of the most daily driver-friendly cams; there are some good threads in the internal mods section about cam selection based on a couple different variables. Wouldn't hurt to check those out before you get too set on the MS3.
I'd also invest a bit more into suspension than Eibach springs (which don't have a great reputation around here) and sway bars, especially if you want traction with a cammed car.
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Probably have an exhaust shop cut and weld to put a set in.
Stick with the stock throttle body, or send it to Shaner to get it ported & polished.
There are a few ways to change the flex tube between the lid and the intake - SLP makes (or made) a replacement smooth tube, or you can do a search for "Fernco mod" on here and try that. It's really for cosmetics only, won't help make any more power.
MS3 cam isn't one of the most daily driver-friendly cams; there are some good threads in the internal mods section about cam selection based on a couple different variables. Wouldn't hurt to check those out before you get too set on the MS3.
I'd also invest a bit more into suspension than Eibach springs (which don't have a great reputation around here) and sway bars, especially if you want traction with a cammed car.
Stick with the stock throttle body, or send it to Shaner to get it ported & polished.
There are a few ways to change the flex tube between the lid and the intake - SLP makes (or made) a replacement smooth tube, or you can do a search for "Fernco mod" on here and try that. It's really for cosmetics only, won't help make any more power.
MS3 cam isn't one of the most daily driver-friendly cams; there are some good threads in the internal mods section about cam selection based on a couple different variables. Wouldn't hurt to check those out before you get too set on the MS3.
I'd also invest a bit more into suspension than Eibach springs (which don't have a great reputation around here) and sway bars, especially if you want traction with a cammed car.
#10
Is your stock fuel pump giving you any trouble? I'm still running my stock pump and so far it is good to 444 rwhp. I wouldn't change it until you start hooking up the Nitros. If you are keeping it mainly street you'll will be happier with a smaller cam.. The El Toro, TSPs TV2 or the 228 would be something to look at. MS3s and MS4s require all the bells and whistles if the are going to run right because they are top end max effort cams.
#13
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You better start shopping for a rear now!! 10 bolts and M6s don't play well together, especially after some mods! Don't forget the TA, LCAs, PHB, SFCs and relocation brackets. If you buy new thats about $1000 and another $3000 or so for a new rear. I know you want to go fast now but when **** starts breaking you'll be paying to get your car home. It cost me $400 to have my car hauled home from E-town, ...that could have been better spent!!! Just my 2 cents, Good Luck! Larry.
#14
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You better start shopping for a rear now!! 10 bolts and M6s don't play well together, especially after some mods! Don't forget the TA, LCAs, PHB, SFCs and relocation brackets. If you buy new thats about $1000 and another $3000 or so for a new rear. I know you want to go fast now but when **** starts breaking you'll be paying to get your car home. It cost me $400 to have my car hauled home from E-town, ...that could have been better spent!!! Just my 2 cents, Good Luck! Larry.
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Broke my 10 bolt but it had plenty runs on it!! Found a used 12 bolt locally and made the upgrade instead of rebuilding the 10 bolt for the 3rd time! And I'm an A4!! We've talked before, I have the hugger orange Z28. Larry
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Yeah, you hate to spend that much on an after market rear but it can be cheaper in the long run! I spent $1200 the last time on the 10bolt, had all the tricks done to it and it still broke! Bought the 12bolt for $1500, problem solved!! Larry
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Alright new set up, after much deliberation (did I spell that correctly?) ive decided to keep the MTI intake, still not decided on mass air flow, TS LS6 kit for intake manifold throttle body and fuel rails, TS 1 3/4 LT's, SLP high flow cats (emmisions county) and TS true duels, Torquer V2 cam, LS6 heads PnP, 150 shot, all with TS 347 "street racer" short block. Texas drivetrain is doing the stage 2 build with a Diamond stage 2 clutch in it. Moser (spell right?) 12 bolt with 390 gears. suspension still undecided. A lot of money I know but I want to do it right. Im going to keep the engine I have till the 347 is built and ready to go in. Might as well get the Trans, rear end, and cosmetics done now while saving for that short block.
#19
Get a RE Assembly FIRST!!!!!!
If I had it to do all over again, I would buy a 9" RE assembly before almost any other mods.(except minor ones of course) Now, every time I think of a performance mod I want to do, in the back of my mind, I know my 10 bolt won't handle it. The 10 Bolt assembly is the weak link on these cars for sure.
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You should have told us you had $15-$20K budget!!! Glad to see you have a plan and some professional help. Just some info, a friend has a 00 SS with an M6 behind an LS6 crate motor plus a healthy cam and his 12 bolt has had issues, mainly the posi. He's using an Eaton HD posi and he's broken the spiders, the clutches, even split the posi case. So you may want to use at least a different posi. If you're gonna race you'll need a rollbar and harness at 11.49 and quicker. Good Luck with the build!!! Larry