New Trans Am to the community! My first F-Body!
#21
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I'd take it to an independent mechanic to have them verify fuel pressure and actually check your vacuum lines. Thing is that it could be both a weak pump and a vacuum leak. The vacuum lines on LSx engines (98-03ish) dont have the best factory setup. And being a 98 with almost 110k on the clock, going through and having them run a vacuum test/check in front of you would help.
Also would help you learn your way around the engine. Someone should make an LSx 101 video.. :/
And that rust.. pssh, that ain't all bad. It's all in the seams, I'm not seeing any on the middle of the pans. Sanding and a good dose of rust inhibitor will help. It can become a show car, don't let em tell ya otherwise! (Tbh a black underbody/undercoat does double duty in looks and protection but that's just me lol)
In the end, best way to fix everything is to take your time, spend your winters taking things apart and slowly bringing her back, all the while asking questions here. There are never any stupid questions.
Hope to see ya at Nats this year, and maybe Ames at Norwalk too!
Also would help you learn your way around the engine. Someone should make an LSx 101 video.. :/
And that rust.. pssh, that ain't all bad. It's all in the seams, I'm not seeing any on the middle of the pans. Sanding and a good dose of rust inhibitor will help. It can become a show car, don't let em tell ya otherwise! (Tbh a black underbody/undercoat does double duty in looks and protection but that's just me lol)
In the end, best way to fix everything is to take your time, spend your winters taking things apart and slowly bringing her back, all the while asking questions here. There are never any stupid questions.
Hope to see ya at Nats this year, and maybe Ames at Norwalk too!
#22
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I'd take it to an independent mechanic to have them verify fuel pressure and actually check your vacuum lines. Thing is that it could be both a weak pump and a vacuum leak. The vacuum lines on LSx engines (98-03ish) dont have the best factory setup. And being a 98 with almost 110k on the clock, going through and having them run a vacuum test/check in front of you would help.
Also would help you learn your way around the engine. Someone should make an LSx 101 video.. :/
And that rust.. pssh, that ain't all bad. It's all in the seams, I'm not seeing any on the middle of the pans. Sanding and a good dose of rust inhibitor will help. It can become a show car, don't let em tell ya otherwise! (Tbh a black underbody/undercoat does double duty in looks and protection but that's just me lol)
In the end, best way to fix everything is to take your time, spend your winters taking things apart and slowly bringing her back, all the while asking questions here. There are never any stupid questions.
Hope to see ya at Nats this year, and maybe Ames at Norwalk too!
Also would help you learn your way around the engine. Someone should make an LSx 101 video.. :/
And that rust.. pssh, that ain't all bad. It's all in the seams, I'm not seeing any on the middle of the pans. Sanding and a good dose of rust inhibitor will help. It can become a show car, don't let em tell ya otherwise! (Tbh a black underbody/undercoat does double duty in looks and protection but that's just me lol)
In the end, best way to fix everything is to take your time, spend your winters taking things apart and slowly bringing her back, all the while asking questions here. There are never any stupid questions.
Hope to see ya at Nats this year, and maybe Ames at Norwalk too!
When I went to pick up the car last night, he pulled in into the shop and hooked up the fuel pressure tester to show me the PSI on the gauge. It was barely hitting 40PSI
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
I just called my local Chevy dealer and spoke to one of their mechanics that has 20+ years. I told him what the other mechanic told me and what is actually going on, and asked if I should bring it in for a second opinion. He said, "The guys on the money." I asked him if it could be the regulator or a vacuum leak. He said, "No. Even, with a vacuum leak, you still should have a decent amount of pressure, if not, mostly all of it. With your pressure being about 20 PSI lower, your fuel pump is starting to go out." He told me, I could bring it in and pay $90 for them to diagnose it, but he does not recommend it as what the other mechanic told me is correct. He quoted me $400 cheaper than the other guy!
However, I will most likely make a trap door and change it that way! I'll pick up the Racetronix Pump.
#23
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I think painting your calipers and fixing your antenna would be a good idea. I've heard great things about POR-15; it would be great for the under-carriage. I coated my 10 bolt with it when I had it out of the car, and I've been really impressed with it. Nice color; you rarely see it.
#24
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I think painting your calipers and fixing your antenna would be a good idea. I've heard great things about POR-15; it would be great for the under-carriage. I coated my 10 bolt with it when I had it out of the car, and I've been really impressed with it. Nice color; you rarely see it.
#25
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I have an idea to what I will do with the underneath of my car. Not sure if I will do it over the winter or in spring. Although, I don't know anyone that has a lift for me to access the underneath of my car!
Here are my thoughts:
1. Buy an electric angle grinder and a 60 grit sander wheel attachment to knock off the surface rust.
2. Rent or buy a small 30 gallon compressor and a small portable handy blaster. Buy some play sand from Lowes or Home Depot, and sandblast the underneath and rear differential.
3. Once, the rust is removed, spray the underneath of my car and rear differential with POR-15.
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/Miscellaneous/RubberizedUndercoat_300_zpsd59d2f0c.jpg)
Are my thoughts pretty reasonable or is this outrageous?!
Would these jackstands work for me to put my car on?
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...80036/10002/-1
Also, guess what was waiting on my door for me....
I can hear the sound in my head!! haha
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/3_zpsd3804ba8.jpg)
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/4_zps7df426d9.jpg)
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/5_zpsb557d133.jpg)
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/6_zpscaa1cfd4.jpg)
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/7_zps657b452c.jpg)
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/8_zps913a60ab.jpg)
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/9_zps7d989516.jpg)
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/10_zps8ff25d93.jpg)
Here are my thoughts:
1. Buy an electric angle grinder and a 60 grit sander wheel attachment to knock off the surface rust.
2. Rent or buy a small 30 gallon compressor and a small portable handy blaster. Buy some play sand from Lowes or Home Depot, and sandblast the underneath and rear differential.
3. Once, the rust is removed, spray the underneath of my car and rear differential with POR-15.
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/Miscellaneous/RubberizedUndercoat_300_zpsd59d2f0c.jpg)
Are my thoughts pretty reasonable or is this outrageous?!
Would these jackstands work for me to put my car on?
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...80036/10002/-1
Also, guess what was waiting on my door for me....
I can hear the sound in my head!! haha
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/3_zpsd3804ba8.jpg)
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/4_zps7df426d9.jpg)
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/5_zpsb557d133.jpg)
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/6_zpscaa1cfd4.jpg)
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/7_zps657b452c.jpg)
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/8_zps913a60ab.jpg)
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/9_zps7d989516.jpg)
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/10_zps8ff25d93.jpg)
![](http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s630/ls1cp/1998%20Trans%20Am%20Rare%20Bright%20Green%20Metallic/SLP%20Loudmouth%20I/11_zps76df02aa.jpg)
Last edited by LS1curlyp; 12-20-2012 at 06:07 PM.
#26
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The Undercarriage doesn't look to horrible but I would take a close look at all your brake lines for safety concerns. A few of the lines at the rear going into the rubber line and out along the fuel filter to the front looks pretty rusty.
#27
#28
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What part of Ohio do you live in? I'm 20 miles north of Dayton. As mentioned before, there are 2 big Pontiac shows in August. The Ames Performance Pontiac Nationals at Norwalk and the Trans Am Nationals in Dayton. I can tell by the amount of pictures you're excited. I remember when I first got my car. TA looks good. I have Loudmouth on my Formula and it is loud. Enjoy it!
#29
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What part of Ohio do you live in? I'm 20 miles north of Dayton. As mentioned before, there are 2 big Pontiac shows in August. The Ames Performance Pontiac Nationals at Norwalk and the Trans Am Nationals in Dayton. I can tell by the amount of pictures you're excited. I remember when I first got my car. TA looks good. I have Loudmouth on my Formula and it is loud. Enjoy it!
#30
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Nice car...like the color. I live outside KC...hope your visit was ok. As for the rust...doesn't look too bad to me, but I wouldn't let it go untreated. I would buy some chemical rust remover. Try to find the gel type.......work with that and a wirebrush to get the rust off...then spray on the POR-15. We use POR-15 on semi truck frames and it's pretty good stuff. On a cheaper budget, Van Sickle paint also works pretty good. I believe it's a oil laquer type paint. It take a few days for it to set up hard, but once on it last for years. I've used it on semi truck frames as well...plus they do have a lot of different colors and you might find one that matches your green. Again, nice car.
#31
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Nice car...like the color. I live outside KC...hope your visit was ok. As for the rust...doesn't look too bad to me, but I wouldn't let it go untreated. I would buy some chemical rust remover. Try to find the gel type.......work with that and a wirebrush to get the rust off...then spray on the POR-15. We use POR-15 on semi truck frames and it's pretty good stuff. On a cheaper budget, Van Sickle paint also works pretty good. I believe it's a oil laquer type paint. It take a few days for it to set up hard, but once on it last for years. I've used it on semi truck frames as well...plus they do have a lot of different colors and you might find one that matches your green. Again, nice car.
The POR-15 seems like it would do a great job (from what I have read). However, this is this shop about 15 minutes from me that will undercoat the whole car for $149. That seems like it a decent price.
#32
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nice car man, the paint looks really good now. and that detail job on the engine bay made it look 10x better. Cant believe how good the condition of the seats are, that's hard to come by with these cars. But damn the rust on cars in the north is amazing to me. You should sand off the rust and take some chassis paint and get to work on your rear end and whatever else has surface rust. Makes the undercarriage looks SO much better and prevents future rust
Edit: Lmao I didn't read all the posts, but when I scrolled back up i saw your plan for the rust fix. My bad. Good luck with your projects and have fun!
Also, those jackstands may be a little tall. I think 3 ton stands were what i bought first (from sears) but ended up trading them for the 2 1/4 ton ones because they were easier to get the car on
Edit: Lmao I didn't read all the posts, but when I scrolled back up i saw your plan for the rust fix. My bad. Good luck with your projects and have fun!
Also, those jackstands may be a little tall. I think 3 ton stands were what i bought first (from sears) but ended up trading them for the 2 1/4 ton ones because they were easier to get the car on
Last edited by Ls2SilverBullet; 12-23-2012 at 11:26 PM.
#34
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Holy ****! Nice engine bay cleanup!! Unmolested Chicken is a nice find!
Reminds me of my first Firebird. Got it in 95 and it was a 1985. It was 10 years old and I got it for $200 with a blown motor. Ahhhh good times..
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#35
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Thanks for the compliment. I'm going to go the wire brush route with PB Blaster or WD-40. Most people have suggested the wire brush is the better option.
The POR-15 seems like it would do a great job (from what I have read). However, this is this shop about 15 minutes from me that will undercoat the whole car for $149. That seems like it a decent price.
The POR-15 seems like it would do a great job (from what I have read). However, this is this shop about 15 minutes from me that will undercoat the whole car for $149. That seems like it a decent price.
I've never priced undercoating a car before but I agree, when you take into acount the paint, labor, breathing filters/mask, washing your clothes, etc, etc, $149 sounds pretty good to me too. Cool deal...post some pictures when you get it done. After seeing your pictures, you've really inspired me to take some time this spring and give my car a good detailing like you've done.
#36
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With the $149 undercoating i would just be afraid of overspray that you could never get off on the LCA's, driveshaft, rear end, exhaust, PHB, etc. Just make sure they do a good masking job
#37
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Congrats on the car man! I'm pretty sure this is the same car I looked at before I bought mine. (I also bought mine in Kansas City, MO). You did a really good job cleaning her up. I believe it was on craigslist for around $6500 if I remeber right.
#39
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nice car man, the paint looks really good now. and that detail job on the engine bay made it look 10x better. Cant believe how good the condition of the seats are, that's hard to come by with these cars. But damn the rust on cars in the north is amazing to me. You should sand off the rust and take some chassis paint and get to work on your rear end and whatever else has surface rust. Makes the undercarriage looks SO much better and prevents future rust
Edit: Lmao I didn't read all the posts, but when I scrolled back up i saw your plan for the rust fix. My bad. Good luck with your projects and have fun!
Also, those jackstands may be a little tall. I think 3 ton stands were what i bought first (from sears) but ended up trading them for the 2 1/4 ton ones because they were easier to get the car on
Edit: Lmao I didn't read all the posts, but when I scrolled back up i saw your plan for the rust fix. My bad. Good luck with your projects and have fun!
Also, those jackstands may be a little tall. I think 3 ton stands were what i bought first (from sears) but ended up trading them for the 2 1/4 ton ones because they were easier to get the car on
![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
I was lucky to find a TA in good condition in my price range. I have looked at several over the past 2 months and they either had a cracked dash and doors, no headliners (or really bad ones), and tears in the seats.
I decided to not go with the sandblaster; after feed back from others I could damage the underneath. I'll just use a wire brush and WD-40 or PB Blaster to remove the rust. Once the rust is gone, I will take the car and have the underbody coated for $149.
Glad I didn't buy the jackstands yet! I'll go to Sears and see if the have the 2 1/4 tons in stock.
#40
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nice car man, the paint looks really good now. and that detail job on the engine bay made it look 10x better. Cant believe how good the condition of the seats are, that's hard to come by with these cars. But damn the rust on cars in the north is amazing to me. You should sand off the rust and take some chassis paint and get to work on your rear end and whatever else has surface rust. Makes the undercarriage looks SO much better and prevents future rust
Edit: Lmao I didn't read all the posts, but when I scrolled back up i saw your plan for the rust fix. My bad. Good luck with your projects and have fun!
Also, those jackstands may be a little tall. I think 3 ton stands were what i bought first (from sears) but ended up trading them for the 2 1/4 ton ones because they were easier to get the car on
Edit: Lmao I didn't read all the posts, but when I scrolled back up i saw your plan for the rust fix. My bad. Good luck with your projects and have fun!
Also, those jackstands may be a little tall. I think 3 ton stands were what i bought first (from sears) but ended up trading them for the 2 1/4 ton ones because they were easier to get the car on
![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
I'm in the Cincinnati area.