New Trans Am to the community! My first F-Body!
12-19-2012, 07:15 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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New Trans Am to the community! My first F-Body! Well everyone, the search is over! After a 9hr trip to Kansas City, Missouri for graduation and looking at a car, I’ve finally found my first F-Body! I am a proud owner of a Bright Green Metallic 1998 Trans Am. *Applause…the crowd goes wild!* There are only 98 Trans Am with this color made, and Pontiac never brought it back. So…please help me welcome “Jade” to the F-Body club!
Exterior:
The body of the car looks really good and clean. There are some fades/nicks on the weather strips, but that is expected for a 14 year old car. After winter, I planned on replacing all the weather strips.
Interior:
The inside of the car is “immaculate” compared to other cars I have looked at! Haha. The leather is in good condition. The only issue is the head liner/ visors. There are some rips/saggy spots; Nothing to major though. I have already called a few upholstery shops for some rough estimates. Within a few weeks I will have the headliner redone.
The visors have some tears in the liner and are starting to crack. I can get “new” visors on eBay for around $50-$100.
Engine:
The engine sounds are runs mechanically well. I drove the car all the way from Kansas City to Ohio. She purred all the way! The engine/bay is dirty. I took the car to the detail shop and they cleaned the "hell" out of it! I will post the pictures next.
There is a small issue with the high beams. One, they do not work, and two, the high beam light is on the dash. I figured out that you have to push down on the steering wheel and then click on the high beams to turn them "on" and "off".
The car went to the mechanic for an inspection. I will post the findings next.
Enough with all the talking…time to introduce you to Jade!
Engine:
Exterior:
The body of the car looks really good and clean. There are some fades/nicks on the weather strips, but that is expected for a 14 year old car. After winter, I planned on replacing all the weather strips.
Interior:
The inside of the car is “immaculate” compared to other cars I have looked at! Haha. The leather is in good condition. The only issue is the head liner/ visors. There are some rips/saggy spots; Nothing to major though. I have already called a few upholstery shops for some rough estimates. Within a few weeks I will have the headliner redone.
The visors have some tears in the liner and are starting to crack. I can get “new” visors on eBay for around $50-$100.
Engine:
The engine sounds are runs mechanically well. I drove the car all the way from Kansas City to Ohio. She purred all the way! The engine/bay is dirty. I took the car to the detail shop and they cleaned the "hell" out of it! I will post the pictures next.
There is a small issue with the high beams. One, they do not work, and two, the high beam light is on the dash. I figured out that you have to push down on the steering wheel and then click on the high beams to turn them "on" and "off".
The car went to the mechanic for an inspection. I will post the findings next.
Enough with all the talking…time to introduce you to Jade!
Engine:
12-19-2012, 07:17 PM
#2
Staging Lane
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I don't even know where to begin! I am AMAZED with the cleaning job the detail shop did with the car...especially the engine/engine bay. The car looks much better and this was well worth $150! Most of all the minor surface scratches are completely gone. There is some rust on a few parts in the engine area and bolts. I need to find out how to clean the rust, but I will replace the rusted bolts. The interior of the car looks even better. The leather seats have someone of a softer feel to them now, but I need to keep using leather lotion to make them even softer.
To show you the quality and detail the shop did, I parked the car in the exact same spot (as the originaly pictures I took), used the same camera and settings, and took the pictures in the same time frame (maybe + or - 10 minutes difference).
On with the show...Here is Jade!
To show you the quality and detail the shop did, I parked the car in the exact same spot (as the originaly pictures I took), used the same camera and settings, and took the pictures in the same time frame (maybe + or - 10 minutes difference).
On with the show...Here is Jade!
12-19-2012, 07:18 PM
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Staging Lane
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I picked the car up from the mechanic today. Everything checked out well for the most part. There are a few minor issues. Before I get to the issues let me tell you about the checkup.
The mechanic told me all the belts and hoses look "new" and do not need replaced. He pulled the spark plugs and said they look good, but could use a tune up if I wanted it. The coolant fluid, power steering fluid, and rear differential fluid with LSP needs changed. He recommended I do the tune up (if I want it) and fluid changes in the spring since I am not driving the car during the winter. The high beam lights and passenger side fog light was burnt out so he replaced them. I was missing some plastic “rivets/screws” (I think that is what they are called) that held a few plastic pieces in place. He replaced them for no change.
The mechanic put my car on the lift so I could see the underneath. There is some rust, but not too bad (I don’t think). Next year around spring/summer, I am going to have the underneath of my car restored/cleaned/rust sealed.
Now, here are the few minor issues he discovered:
1.The steering wheel column is loose. That is why the high beam light was on the dash when I originally bought it. To turn it off, you have to press down on the steering wheel to turn off and on the high beams. He took apart the steering wheel to tighten the four bolts that hold it in, but realized the bearing is bad. Thus why the steering wheel is loose. He told me it would be cheaper to buy a whole new steer wheel column, then to replace the bearings due to the labor cost (about 6hrs of labor).
2.The fuel pump is weak. This is why there is hesitation/long crank over to start up the car. He put on the fuel pressure tester and showed me where my pressure is at. It’s just barely getting 40 PSI, when it should be between 55-60 PSI. The fuel pump is going to cost around $730, labor $460, fuel filter $40. I am looking at $1,230 to fix it. He also mentioned to save me on cost, I should put the exhaust system on at the same time since the axel, and exhaust will have to be dropped to take out the fuel tank.
3.He told me right of bat my power steering line is not leaking, but there is some “wetness” there and on the pump. I took pictures for you all to see. He mentioned I should probably replace it sometime in the near future before it does go out.
What do you all think? Are the prices the mechanic quoted me outrageous? Besides these few minor issues, I think I bought a great car. Any advice is welcome
The rust on the exhaust I am not worried about. My wife ordered my SLP LM1 exhaust and should be here by Friday or beginning of next week! I also ordered the aluminum gears from Rodney Dickman to replace the junky plastic ones in the headlights.
The mechanic told me all the belts and hoses look "new" and do not need replaced. He pulled the spark plugs and said they look good, but could use a tune up if I wanted it. The coolant fluid, power steering fluid, and rear differential fluid with LSP needs changed. He recommended I do the tune up (if I want it) and fluid changes in the spring since I am not driving the car during the winter. The high beam lights and passenger side fog light was burnt out so he replaced them. I was missing some plastic “rivets/screws” (I think that is what they are called) that held a few plastic pieces in place. He replaced them for no change.
The mechanic put my car on the lift so I could see the underneath. There is some rust, but not too bad (I don’t think). Next year around spring/summer, I am going to have the underneath of my car restored/cleaned/rust sealed.
Now, here are the few minor issues he discovered:
1.The steering wheel column is loose. That is why the high beam light was on the dash when I originally bought it. To turn it off, you have to press down on the steering wheel to turn off and on the high beams. He took apart the steering wheel to tighten the four bolts that hold it in, but realized the bearing is bad. Thus why the steering wheel is loose. He told me it would be cheaper to buy a whole new steer wheel column, then to replace the bearings due to the labor cost (about 6hrs of labor).
2.The fuel pump is weak. This is why there is hesitation/long crank over to start up the car. He put on the fuel pressure tester and showed me where my pressure is at. It’s just barely getting 40 PSI, when it should be between 55-60 PSI. The fuel pump is going to cost around $730, labor $460, fuel filter $40. I am looking at $1,230 to fix it. He also mentioned to save me on cost, I should put the exhaust system on at the same time since the axel, and exhaust will have to be dropped to take out the fuel tank.
3.He told me right of bat my power steering line is not leaking, but there is some “wetness” there and on the pump. I took pictures for you all to see. He mentioned I should probably replace it sometime in the near future before it does go out.
What do you all think? Are the prices the mechanic quoted me outrageous? Besides these few minor issues, I think I bought a great car. Any advice is welcome
The rust on the exhaust I am not worried about. My wife ordered my SLP LM1 exhaust and should be here by Friday or beginning of next week! I also ordered the aluminum gears from Rodney Dickman to replace the junky plastic ones in the headlights.
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12-19-2012, 10:06 PM
#8
The car looks great bro. As for the issues that is nothing for the age of car. I just bought a 2000ss and replaced both rear wheel bearing and axle. I then had leaking power sterring pressure hose. I paid 6900 with 99 k and put about 1600 to get in good working order. Enjoy your car. I just did tsp headers and ory. Great first mod along with a slp.lid. enjoy
12-19-2012, 10:20 PM
#9
Staging Lane
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The car looks great bro. As for the issues that is nothing for the age of car. I just bought a 2000ss and replaced both rear wheel bearing and axle. I then had leaking power sterring pressure hose. I paid 6900 with 99 k and put about 1600 to get in good working order. Enjoy your car. I just did tsp headers and ory. Great first mod along with a slp.lid. enjoy
If you don't mind, would you point me in the direction to the write-up for the fuel pump?
12-19-2012, 10:45 PM
#10
A few comments ... First, congratulations on the car! BGM isn't seen much anymore; I remember being startled by the color when new as it replaced a darker forest green on earlier cars.
The seats look nice and THE DOOR PANELS AREN'T CRACKED!! That's major. Visors and headliners can be replaced more readily and cheaply than door panels.
The detail job turned out really nice and the engine compartment difference is night and day.
The only downside is that the undercarriage is pretty rusty ... not a problem if the car is just going to be a driver for the next few years. It'll look good going down the road but never be a showcar.
The price for the fuel pump and labor is ridiculous. You can buy good stock-style pumps (Delphi, AC Delco, Bosch) for about $300. I'm faced with replacing mine and have decided against the trap door method as my friend has a shop with lifts that I can use.
My advice is to get everything squared away and working right before thinking about performance mods. Have fun!
The seats look nice and THE DOOR PANELS AREN'T CRACKED!! That's major. Visors and headliners can be replaced more readily and cheaply than door panels.
The detail job turned out really nice and the engine compartment difference is night and day.
The only downside is that the undercarriage is pretty rusty ... not a problem if the car is just going to be a driver for the next few years. It'll look good going down the road but never be a showcar.
The price for the fuel pump and labor is ridiculous. You can buy good stock-style pumps (Delphi, AC Delco, Bosch) for about $300. I'm faced with replacing mine and have decided against the trap door method as my friend has a shop with lifts that I can use.
My advice is to get everything squared away and working right before thinking about performance mods. Have fun!
12-20-2012, 12:01 AM
#12
Nice car! But Holy Rust!
$1230 for a fuel pump replacement? Tell them to kick rocks. There's a write-up somewhere here. Do it yourself, put a Racetronix & Hotwire kit in. $200 tops.
$1230 for a fuel pump replacement? Tell them to kick rocks. There's a write-up somewhere here. Do it yourself, put a Racetronix & Hotwire kit in. $200 tops.
12-20-2012, 05:49 AM
#14
also if you plan on getting headrs and a cat-less y pipe, i suggest looking into a replacment muffler for that loudmouth.
I have the same set up, and had to change out the muffler for a magnaflow bullet muffler. slp loudmouth sounds too raspy after headers. sound awesome on stock manifolds tho.
I have the same set up, and had to change out the muffler for a magnaflow bullet muffler. slp loudmouth sounds too raspy after headers. sound awesome on stock manifolds tho.
12-20-2012, 06:20 AM
#15
Staging Lane
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12-20-2012, 06:23 AM
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Thanks! Yeah, the rust underneath is sort of a sore eye! haha. Once spring time hits, I am taking it to an auto body shop for them to clean and restore the underneath of the car. I mainly would like the rust cleaned and the underneath treated.
12-20-2012, 06:24 AM
#17
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also if you plan on getting headrs and a cat-less y pipe, i suggest looking into a replacment muffler for that loudmouth.
I have the same set up, and had to change out the muffler for a magnaflow bullet muffler. slp loudmouth sounds too raspy after headers. sound awesome on stock manifolds tho.
I have the same set up, and had to change out the muffler for a magnaflow bullet muffler. slp loudmouth sounds too raspy after headers. sound awesome on stock manifolds tho.
12-20-2012, 08:24 AM
#18
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Just to verify, does the 98 TA's have the metal or plastic tank? Also, if it is the metal tank, is this the pump I should use? http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...PA-002&eq=&Tp=
12-20-2012, 10:34 AM
#20
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Quick question.
Someone suggested this before replacing the fuel pump:
"I'd look into the fuel pressure regulator and the whole assembly on the actual fuel rail, it could be bad or a vacuum hose could be disconnected, not regulating the fuel correctly. I may be wrong."
I look at the "How To's" on this thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ock-lines.html But didn't see anything.
Could someone point me in the right direction on how to check this before I buy the pump?
Someone suggested this before replacing the fuel pump:
"I'd look into the fuel pressure regulator and the whole assembly on the actual fuel rail, it could be bad or a vacuum hose could be disconnected, not regulating the fuel correctly. I may be wrong."
I look at the "How To's" on this thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ock-lines.html But didn't see anything.
Could someone point me in the right direction on how to check this before I buy the pump?