PCV Valve replacement options?
#1
PCV Valve replacement options?
I have seen that some have issues with the ls1 pcv valve in the f bodys. I found on the WS6 stores web site they have another type of pcv for a ls based truck engine I think? I guess there was a service bullitin put out by GM to replace the pcv with the truck version. Does any one know about this, and if I wanted to get one at the auto parts store, does anyone have a part # or do I ask for a certain year truck pcv valve?
#2
TECH Resident
just rebuild the system like everyone else... connect the back 2 valve covers with and then T off of that.. go nto a PCV valve, then to a catch can ($20 on flebay) and then from there to the intake... cost about $30 in materials
#3
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The truck valve isn't actually a "valve" at all, it's just a hollow valve casing with a much smaller orfice at the end (3mm vs. 10mm for the original I think). I don't have the part number handy right now, but you'll know if it's the right one because there is no valve inside to rattle when you shake it.
Personally, I have just left the PCV system stock on my current LS1s. In the past I've gone through the trouble to modifiy the system, install catch cans and modified valves/mounting locations, etc. My current ones don't have any significant oil consumption, so I have chosen to just leave their systems alone - and after many years I've seen no ill side-effects from doing so.
Personally, I have just left the PCV system stock on my current LS1s. In the past I've gone through the trouble to modifiy the system, install catch cans and modified valves/mounting locations, etc. My current ones don't have any significant oil consumption, so I have chosen to just leave their systems alone - and after many years I've seen no ill side-effects from doing so.
#4
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ACDelco CV4000C. Just ordered mine from Amazon, along with a trans mount and some ATP AT-205 to use on bushings. On a side note, I'm planning to rebuild my PCV this weekend. Already have the fuel line and catch can, and the new valve is on the way. Just have to get to the store to pick up the brass fittings.
#6
Pcv valves remind me of the old points condenser ignition days if you look at the points
and there is no pitting then the capacitance of the condenser is correct and should only
be replaced when pitting occurs. PCV valves are the same deal new is not always better
one that is working right I will leave alone. 214,000mi on the one on my truck with a
5.3L. When working right the stock PCV sytem does a good job.
and there is no pitting then the capacitance of the condenser is correct and should only
be replaced when pitting occurs. PCV valves are the same deal new is not always better
one that is working right I will leave alone. 214,000mi on the one on my truck with a
5.3L. When working right the stock PCV sytem does a good job.
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#8
so it seems that just leaving it alone may be the answer, and/or placing the orifice type in the stock location would also be fine. What happened to all the hoopla over the catch cans that were all the rage a few years ago? Or is it over kill for a DD? What about when the plastic line that goes around the back of the intake manifold breaks apart, would then be a good time to ditch the stock setup, or replace it and stay stock.
#9
TECH Resident
i ditches all my stock setups because these being 10+ year old cars the factory hoses are all deteriated and broken.. on my car the catch can traps about an inch of oil in between changes that would otherwise go into the intake and puddle up and burn off through the motor wich i dont like.
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What happened to all the hoopla over the catch cans that were all the rage a few years ago? Or is it over kill for a DD? What about when the plastic line that goes around the back of the intake manifold breaks apart, would then be a good time to ditch the stock setup, or replace it and stay stock.
If the line is broken and needs repair anyway, then it would be a good time to make changes if you so desire. The replacement line from GM is expensive, but it's plug-and-play. If you want to make something custom from rubber line and various fittings, you can save some money.
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The problem with the stock PCV setup, as pertains
to excess oil uptake and fouling of the intake, is the
"makeup air" path. At WOT there is a vacuum applied
to this line (the sum of airbox, filter and MAF pressure
drops), it is totally unchecked and will draw hard on
the oil fog in the heads. On an older vehicle you will
see a "snail track" from this port into the TB throat.
Despite that it's meant to be flowing -into- the case.
I put a small sump style fuel filter in this line, to strip
any oil out of the back-flow.
If the PCV valve still rattles when you shake it, you
can bet it's still good.
to excess oil uptake and fouling of the intake, is the
"makeup air" path. At WOT there is a vacuum applied
to this line (the sum of airbox, filter and MAF pressure
drops), it is totally unchecked and will draw hard on
the oil fog in the heads. On an older vehicle you will
see a "snail track" from this port into the TB throat.
Despite that it's meant to be flowing -into- the case.
I put a small sump style fuel filter in this line, to strip
any oil out of the back-flow.
If the PCV valve still rattles when you shake it, you
can bet it's still good.