So May 18th I will be going to a dyno shop that is holding a special of $50 for 3 dyno pulls.

Neither I nor my car have ever been to a dyno shop before, I'm not fully sure what to expect.

My car has almost exactly 100,000 miles on it, it's an auto with a few minor bolt on's. Is there anything I should be worried about? Anything I should check on before putting it on the dyno? Any major risks?

I've seen dyno accidents before where the car will jet off the dyno, but I'm going to presume that's pretty rare, and $50 for 3 pulls sounds insanely cheap to me.

Also, anyone have any ideas on numbers it will produce? It's an A4 with P&P TB, lid, and cat-back. I'm hoping for 290-310WHP.

Nah you will be fine man! It depends on the dyno, but if it's your average Dynojet dyno i'd say your numbers would be about right

Your numbers sound right on. I'd guess about 295ish. Keep us updated. That's one hell of a deal on the pricing.

check you plugs and wires ,and replace them if they aren't in good shape.clean your MAF ,and IAC.do a oil change ,and tranny fluid.and check your O2 sensors before to make sure they are working great.check your rear tire pressure .

Yeah, I probably need to do a plugs and wires change, think they're about due. Thanks for the advice.

If it breaks 285WHP I'll be a happy camper, if it breaks 300WHP I'll be singing.

HP numbers dont really mean all that much. a 300whp car can run a solid 13 and another 300whp car can run a 12.5 track times are what shows a cars true capability, i wouldnt get to worked up over dyno numbers.

No, track times are a result of a car's true capability. WHP numbers show what a car's capability is.

If you have two cars with the exact same WHP numbers and they are running over a .5 second difference in 1/4 mile times, there is either something wrong mechanically with the car or the driver, that's a huge time difference.

Not necessarily. Altitude and DA could account for .5 second difference in the same car.

But we aren't discussing those possibilities.

Two cars that are putting out the exact same WHP number both run at a track on the same day by drivers of the exact same skill set, not saying the times will be the same down to the hundredth of a second, but they should NOT be .5 seconds off.

Do your plugs and wires. Oil change would be a must and check the rest of your fluids. Just make sure they are not in a hurry and strap down all four corners. Most will try to get a few more clicks on the straps after the tires get rolling. Just dont be the first one on and watch a few first. Just go have fun and watch! Hopefully they will have some cars that put some big numbers up! Those are the fun ones to watch!

no two motors are alike despite even if they had the exact same mods. just like one motor can dyno a 290 at one dynojet, 300 at a different one, then come back to the first and run a 310. then theres the driver and his reaction time ability, overall skill at launching his car and how well he shifts if its manual, a large host of differences come into play, some idiot who is all talk can take a 450rwhp t/a down the strip and run a 13 or worse compared to someone who is skilled and knows their car and runs a low 12 or high 11. look believe what you want, just saying i wouldnt play into HP numbers too much. if you are looking at output numbers seriously then pay attention to torque which is a more accurate and actual physics-based measurement. either way hope you see what your looking for.

I just got mine dynoed for the first time yesterday. 314/324 to the wheels with just a lid and cat-back through an A4. I was hoping for a solid 300 so I'm really happy with those numbers. You should be right about where I am or higher since you got the p&p tb too.

Make sure you don't have any major oil or coolant leaks. Leaking on the dyno doesn't make the owner happy. If a car flyes off the dyno then someone didn't do there job right or there equipment is crap.

So if the car goes off the dyno and crashes or something, who's liable? They must make you sign a release or something right, so that they aren't liable for accidents? And insurance probably won't cover it either.

I didn't sign anything when I got dynoed at CSP...and the way the shop is set up since his location is so small he has the door to get in, the dyno rollers on the ground, right in front of the dyno is a lift with another lift next to that one, and when I went there was an '06 GTO up on the lift in front of me when I was getting dyno'ed lol. I was worried about it coming loose and going into the lift/wall but it turned out just fine.

FWIW I dynoed 326rwhp 322rwtq, setup should be in the sig but if it's changed, at the time, FTI SRLS3391 billet converter (3500 stall speed, 2.35 STR) w/ Hayden cooler, ARH 1 7/8" headers to ARH ORY and Borla catback and SLP lid, very minor suspension (LCA, PHB, STB).

Well your car vs a car with the same mods and a converter and tire (will not effect hp much) will easy pull off .5 faster than yours.

Im not a lawyer, so lets make that point clear.

The liability waver they make you sign is in case of anything fails on the vehicle (engine, rear end, etc) you are out of luck. The last one I did, I had to tell them what operating range the car had to be dyno'd at and they stayed in that range.

For a car to fly off the dyno, one of a few things have to occur, either a car was not strapped properly, vehicle was not on the rollers correctly, or someone hit the brakes while the rollers are spinning. There could be more ways, but Im not going to get into that. I watched a dumbass in South Florida hit the brakes after they told him to abort the run and it snapped one of the straps sending the car off the dyno and into a lift. The owner of the vehicle insisted on doing the pulls himself so he had no one to blame and he was responsible for all damages. Couldnt have happened to a bigger tool and his bigger tool of a wife. I was all smiles that day.

Now, if they were doing everything, their insurance company might have to pay. Being that its a dyno there might be gray area for the insurance company to wiggle out. Either way, them or the shop should pay to have your car fixed if your car flys off the dyno from their negligence.

Actually, I would go so far as to say that even 1 full second of difference would not be out of line for two cars with the same RWHP number.

- differences in vehicle weight
- converter stall speed and/or gear ratio (both trans & diff)
- tires and suspension setup
- the aforementioned differences in weather

....all combined could make a drastic difference in ET between two cars of the same rwhp level.

Off topic but RPM do you think its possible for a bone stock car w/ lid and cat back to break 11s without doing any sort of power mods and just a converter, tire, gears, weight reduction, and suspension??? im kind of curious about that now lol

I'm sure it's possible. lid, catback, 3.73 gears, slicks or very good DRs, 3800-4400 stall, totally stripped interior, and suspension. High 11's would probably be a attainable.