Wake up a 00 t/a auto?
06-21-2013, 05:44 PM
#41
Thanks for all the feed back but as of right now im not sure i want to get that crazy with the car. it only has 45K original miles and is all stock and clean other then flowmaster.
I was given a super chip tuner that is not yet been put on the car...is that something worth doing?
and if i was to just do gears for a little more whats good for the street and DD?
Headers i'd consider if i was to keep it long enough as well as converter but i dont want to get deep in to mods yet seeing that the car is at a rare stage and i been on the fence about selling it in a month or so.
I was given a super chip tuner that is not yet been put on the car...is that something worth doing?
and if i was to just do gears for a little more whats good for the street and DD?
Headers i'd consider if i was to keep it long enough as well as converter but i dont want to get deep in to mods yet seeing that the car is at a rare stage and i been on the fence about selling it in a month or so.
As for gears, Im telling ya, if you have the crappy 2:73s, pick up a used rearend from a 6 speed car that have 3:42's. Going from 2:73's to 3:42s will give you that pep that you want. The car will drive exactly the same but it will "FEEL" like you have 50 more HP. Like I have said I have done this in my uncles C5 vette and it was a night & day difference.
Plus you can get the rearend CHEAP. I bought one for $200 with 30k miles on it. Most are in the 200-300 range.
Find out what gears your car has first.
06-22-2013, 12:01 AM
#42
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3:23, 3:42, etc., are not gear ratios. Gear ratios would be 3.23:1, 3.42:1, or more simply 3.23 or 3.42, etc.
You'll need more than just an axle swap if you want the speedo and shift points to still be correct, you'll need some sort of basic tune as well.
I never felt that a 3500-4000 stall felt specifically "lazy" with 3.23s. Maybe at 1/4 throttle, but this is not something that I (or many) would be exactly bothered by. It's a bit looser with 2.73s, but again this is a perception issue so other's may not be nearly as bothered by this as you are.
Even if you have 2.73s I would still recommend a converter before gears, for any LS1/4L60E combo, if you're looking to "wake up" your street car. I have experienced many modifications over my years with LS1 cars, and I can say that (aside from power adders) there is no single modification that will give more overall positive acceleration improvement than a 3500+ stall for an A4 car.
I never felt that a 3500-4000 stall felt specifically "lazy" with 3.23s. Maybe at 1/4 throttle, but this is not something that I (or many) would be exactly bothered by. It's a bit looser with 2.73s, but again this is a perception issue so other's may not be nearly as bothered by this as you are.
Even if you have 2.73s I would still recommend a converter before gears, for any LS1/4L60E combo, if you're looking to "wake up" your street car. I have experienced many modifications over my years with LS1 cars, and I can say that (aside from power adders) there is no single modification that will give more overall positive acceleration improvement than a 3500+ stall for an A4 car.
06-22-2013, 12:26 AM
#43
My point exactly. If the OP is looking to wake his daily driver/cruiser up GET GEARS. After reading the OP's original question, Im pretty sure he doesnt want a car that is going to feel "LAZY" under normal driving conditions.
If OP is only concerned with timeslip ET's and racing from a Dig...get a converter (I still wouldnt get a converter if I had 2:73's)
That AND it will make the car ripped through the gear MUCH faster. = fun, on the street and at the track.
Look at most of the M6 guys. One of the first things you do is go 3:90's or 4:10s.
Also, Id rather spend $200-$300 on a used 3:42 rearend and regret it (which is not going to happen)
Than to spend $500-$1000 for a converter, plus $ for a trans cooler, fan, etc.. and then find out how it feels under normal driving
If OP is only concerned with timeslip ET's and racing from a Dig...get a converter (I still wouldnt get a converter if I had 2:73's)
That AND it will make the car ripped through the gear MUCH faster. = fun, on the street and at the track.
Look at most of the M6 guys. One of the first things you do is go 3:90's or 4:10s.
Also, Id rather spend $200-$300 on a used 3:42 rearend and regret it (which is not going to happen)
Than to spend $500-$1000 for a converter, plus $ for a trans cooler, fan, etc.. and then find out how it feels under normal driving
After 3-4 threads and me repeating and repeating myself and him arguing with me... He ended up going gears. I told him I knew he would be happy and say "lemons12" doesn't know what he is talking about. Guess what? That happened.
However, I also told him that once he got a converter he would most likely apologize and completely change his outlook.
Guess what? He now 100% screams CONVERTER FIRST!!! He was looking to "pep" up his car as well. This was a huge ordeal over several weeks of back and forth this and that..
I can pull you up the threads if you would like, it is actually kind of comical if you have the time to read it.
500-1000$ for a converter?
525$ shipped for a brand new PTC and a cooler. You don't get any better and you can install this yourself.
VS the cost of the 3.42 rear + tune to make the speedo read accurately and not add useless miles to your car.
He is a FIRM believer in converter first, before anything.
This might be a dumb question... But have you ever had a car with a converter before gears and gears before a converter, or a converter period?
I said "lazy" because I don't consider it "lazy". I'm not the least bit bothered by the loose feeling. What happens at 3/4+ throttle matters to me, not putting next to the mini van soccer mom.
Please don't compare gears for an auto to a manual, they aren't even the same universe.
There are more cons to a lower gear ratio than there are positives.
I never felt that a 3500-4000 stall felt specifically "lazy" with 3.23s. Maybe at 1/4 throttle, but this is not something that I (or many) would be exactly bothered by. It's a bit looser with 2.73s, but again this is a perception issue so other's may not be nearly as bothered by this as you are.
Even if you have 2.73s I would still recommend a converter before gears, for any LS1/4L60E combo, if you're looking to "wake up" your street car. I have experienced many modifications over my years with LS1 cars, and I can say that (aside from power adders) there is no single modification that will give more overall positive acceleration improvement than a 3500+ stall for an A4 car.
Even if you have 2.73s I would still recommend a converter before gears, for any LS1/4L60E combo, if you're looking to "wake up" your street car. I have experienced many modifications over my years with LS1 cars, and I can say that (aside from power adders) there is no single modification that will give more overall positive acceleration improvement than a 3500+ stall for an A4 car.
There is a reason that DRs are a supporting mod to a converter and optional for any other mod. Why? Even a bone stock car will roast the tires @ 20mph... Gears won't do that.
06-22-2013, 12:29 AM
#44
I'm sorry... I just see too many people scream gears.
Then they get a converter and think, "Damn, now I know what all the guys that had a little bit more modding experience were talking about... I should have got a converter first.".
A converter is the heart of an auto setup and makes or breaks everything. It is THE first mod you should do. If I had a 98 BONE STOCK 2.73 car... A 4000 converter would be its first mod, even before a lid.
Then they get a converter and think, "Damn, now I know what all the guys that had a little bit more modding experience were talking about... I should have got a converter first.".
A converter is the heart of an auto setup and makes or breaks everything. It is THE first mod you should do. If I had a 98 BONE STOCK 2.73 car... A 4000 converter would be its first mod, even before a lid.
06-22-2013, 12:31 AM
#45
Speak of the devil! LOL
https://ls1tech.com/forums/17492936-post33.html
Still supporting the 4000 converter... And he was DEAD SET on something like a 3000.
It got to the point I stopped trying with him, he was going to figure it out the hard way.. And it takes a lot for me to get so frustrate with a noob I stop helping. Thankfully after many many people told him exactly what I was, he listened.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...converter.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/17492936-post33.html
Still supporting the 4000 converter... And he was DEAD SET on something like a 3000.
It got to the point I stopped trying with him, he was going to figure it out the hard way.. And it takes a lot for me to get so frustrate with a noob I stop helping. Thankfully after many many people told him exactly what I was, he listened.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...converter.html
06-22-2013, 12:37 AM
#46
I *really* want to point this out!!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/14556246-post1.html
Read the last sentence in this post.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...3s-update.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/14556594-post5.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/14556246-post1.html
Read the last sentence in this post.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...3s-update.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/14556594-post5.html
06-22-2013, 12:40 AM
#47
https://ls1tech.com/forums/14560970-post29.html
I'm posting these so we don't have to beat a dead horse. I was a little more blunt with my replies cause I was frustrated with him but you get the idea.
Sorry for blowing this thread up but this should pretty much end this discussion.. READ!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...-update-2.html
READ READ READ!!
I'm posting these so we don't have to beat a dead horse. I was a little more blunt with my replies cause I was frustrated with him but you get the idea.
Sorry for blowing this thread up but this should pretty much end this discussion.. READ!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...-update-2.html
READ READ READ!!
06-22-2013, 12:46 AM
#49
Pay attention about 6-7 posts in when he asks me the difference under normal driving with a 3600 VS a 4000. There is a reason once people have had both and experienced it they scream 4000.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ound-good.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ound-good.html
06-22-2013, 12:47 AM
#50
It is getting to become a broke record. LOL
https://ls1tech.com/forums/15682255-post64.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/15695417-post67.html
We have been doing this for far too long. LOL
https://ls1tech.com/forums/15682255-post64.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/15695417-post67.html
We have been doing this for far too long. LOL
06-22-2013, 02:05 AM
#52
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I understand, I feel the same way. When these threads pop up there are always one or two guys that get it in their head that gears should be prioritized over stall speed. This thought process is either the result of inexperience with both options (as applied to an LS1/4L60E setup), or trying to directly compare M6 concepts to A4 cars, or the greater sensitivity that a small group of people seem to have towards "looseness", or the result of ideas that made more sense in the old muscle car world but that do not apply to LS1 4th gens (i.e. internal 1st gear ratios of 2.4x-2.5x:1 - which is a far cry from the 3.06:1 gearing of the 4L60E, plus taller stock tires, lack of TCC/lock-up, etc.)
06-22-2013, 02:21 AM
#53
I understand, I feel the same way. When these threads pop up there are always one or two guys that get it in their head that gears should be prioritized over stall speed. This thought process is either the result of inexperience with both options (as applied to an LS1/4L60E setup), or trying to directly compare M6 concepts to A4 cars, or the greater sensitivity that a small group of people seem to have towards "looseness", or the result of ideas that made more sense in the old muscle car world but that do not apply to LS1 4th gens (i.e. internal 1st gear ratios of 2.4x-2.5x:1 - which is a far cry from the 3.06:1 gearing of the 4L60E, plus taller stock tires, lack of TCC/lock-up, etc.)
I keep thinking it is going to change one day.. It isn't.
06-22-2013, 05:36 AM
#54
I had my SS3600 with 3.73s and 3.23s. I could barely tell the difference from a stop, it was marginally looser. From a roll and going through the gears it felt no different. Gears will be the last mod I'll do and I'll only be doing them because I'll be getting a built rear. Even then I might only go for something in the 3.40-.60 range.
Lemons is right. Oh yea my SS3600 is now a 4000 stall. Go big the first time, 9 times out of 10 you won't regret it.
Lemons is right. Oh yea my SS3600 is now a 4000 stall. Go big the first time, 9 times out of 10 you won't regret it.
06-22-2013, 01:24 PM
#55
500-1000$ for a converter?
525$ shipped for a brand new PTC and a cooler.
VS the cost of the 3.42 rear + tune to make the speedo read accurately and not add useless miles to your car.
This might be a dumb question... But have you ever had a car with a converter before gears and gears before a converter, or a converter period?
I said "lazy" because I don't consider it "lazy". I'm not the least bit bothered by the loose feeling.What happens at 3/4+ throttle matters to me, not putting next to the mini van soccer mom.
Gears will give you that 100% of the time.
A converter will not give you that in the lower rpms while driving normal. To the OP With a converter, 99% of the time when your driving the car like normal, you give it gas, rpms go up, but the car slugs along until the converter locks up.
Please don't compare gears for an auto to a manual, they aren't even the same universe.
There are more cons to a lower gear ratio than there are positives.
Also, In your reference thread'S, the guy your speaking about is running a 234/242 111 LSA cam, Thats a pretty large cam. A converter is a MUST when running a cam like that. Completely Apples to oranges in this comparison.
The OP is talking about a daily driver and wanted something simple that will give him some extra kick.
TO THE OP, As you can see, everyone thats screaming "go converter" All there backup proof is 60' times, ETs, Drag racing, and be only concerned with 3/4 throttle and up. Funny how they say Nothing about the "feel" or drivability" below 3600 rpms....where your at 99% of the time while driving your daily driver.
All they have been preaching is how bad *** a converter is when your jumping on the gas. Im not arguing with that point. Im arguing about how the car will drive & feel 99% of the time when your below 3500 rpm.
Install a 3:42 rearend and you will feel the difference in any style of driving, from idle to redline, weather your driving normal on the back roads, cruising along on the highway, or got the gas to floor.
Last edited by 30th t/a; 06-22-2013 at 01:54 PM.
06-22-2013, 05:05 PM
#56
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Alot of reading lol havent been on since last time. seems like a converter is the way to go if i plan on anything since i check my door and from that it is clamming that i have the 3:23 gears already
06-23-2013, 12:50 AM
#57
Whats so funny? You buy a quality converter, your going to be in the 500 - 1000 range depending with what you go with.
Ok looks like I was right when I said $500 - $1000.
OK $200 - $300 for a used 10 bolt plus $50 for a speedometer recalibration. $350
Yes, had a camaro with 2:73s, added a 3600 stall (that sucked) added 3:73s = much better. Eventually added 4:10s, wasnt bad but I liked the 3:73s better with the auto. I also had a TT WS6 with a built 80e & a yank 3400 stall & 3:42 rear. That was nice setup.
Again, thank you for proving my point. Not everybody is concerned with racing the car every weekend or drag racing on the street and being at 3/4 throttle at all times. Some people want that extra "kick in the pants" at ALL RPMS.
Gears will give you that 100% of the time.
A converter will not give you that in the lower rpms while driving normal. To the OP With a converter, 99% of the time when your driving the car like normal, you give it gas, rpms go up, but the car slugs along until the converter locks up.
I disagree & I had both.
Again, I've had both & I disagree
Also, In your reference thread'S, the guy your speaking about is running a 234/242 111 LSA cam, Thats a pretty large cam. A converter is a MUST when running a cam like that. Completely Apples to oranges in this comparison.
The OP is talking about a daily driver and wanted something simple that will give him some extra kick.
TO THE OP, As you can see, everyone thats screaming "go converter" All there backup proof is 60' times, ETs, Drag racing, and be only concerned with 3/4 throttle and up. Funny how they say Nothing about the "feel" or drivability" below 3600 rpms....where your at 99% of the time while driving your daily driver.
All they have been preaching is how bad *** a converter is when your jumping on the gas. Im not arguing with that point. Im arguing about how the car will drive & feel 99% of the time when your below 3500 rpm.
Install a 3:42 rearend and you will feel the difference in any style of driving, from idle to redline, weather your driving normal on the back roads, cruising along on the highway, or got the gas to floor.
Ok looks like I was right when I said $500 - $1000.
OK $200 - $300 for a used 10 bolt plus $50 for a speedometer recalibration. $350
Yes, had a camaro with 2:73s, added a 3600 stall (that sucked) added 3:73s = much better. Eventually added 4:10s, wasnt bad but I liked the 3:73s better with the auto. I also had a TT WS6 with a built 80e & a yank 3400 stall & 3:42 rear. That was nice setup.
Again, thank you for proving my point. Not everybody is concerned with racing the car every weekend or drag racing on the street and being at 3/4 throttle at all times. Some people want that extra "kick in the pants" at ALL RPMS.
Gears will give you that 100% of the time.
A converter will not give you that in the lower rpms while driving normal. To the OP With a converter, 99% of the time when your driving the car like normal, you give it gas, rpms go up, but the car slugs along until the converter locks up.
I disagree & I had both.
Again, I've had both & I disagree
Also, In your reference thread'S, the guy your speaking about is running a 234/242 111 LSA cam, Thats a pretty large cam. A converter is a MUST when running a cam like that. Completely Apples to oranges in this comparison.
The OP is talking about a daily driver and wanted something simple that will give him some extra kick.
TO THE OP, As you can see, everyone thats screaming "go converter" All there backup proof is 60' times, ETs, Drag racing, and be only concerned with 3/4 throttle and up. Funny how they say Nothing about the "feel" or drivability" below 3600 rpms....where your at 99% of the time while driving your daily driver.
All they have been preaching is how bad *** a converter is when your jumping on the gas. Im not arguing with that point. Im arguing about how the car will drive & feel 99% of the time when your below 3500 rpm.
Install a 3:42 rearend and you will feel the difference in any style of driving, from idle to redline, weather your driving normal on the back roads, cruising along on the highway, or got the gas to floor.
You aren't getting it..
You aren't getting it..
You aren't getting it..
Wrong. He had a pretty much bone stock car. I would have made one post if I saw a cam as a mod and not a converter and not entered back in. How many times did I tell you to read? I'm going to guess the Mr. Knowitall read little to nothing in any of the threads I posted.
You aren't getting it..
One last question... If you can't feel the difference between 3.73s and 3.23s with a 3600 converter... Why in the world would you put 3.73s in the car? They are weaker, they give worse MPG, they have the potential to whine, there is so minimal gains it isn't even worth the money (and I'll pay 500$ for .1 easily).... I could go on.
There is no "pep" at 1500RPMs with a converter, even with 410s. So why would you care?
I have PLENTY of "pep" at half throttle. I can roast the 315 nittos at 3/4 from a low roll 3/4 throttle with ease. Half throttle (3K RPMs) and anyone next to me would have to be floored to keep up.
I have nothing else to say to you. I just hope very few head your advice. You are in the MASSIVE minority with several of your points. If you comprehended (by that I mean reading between the lines), you wouldn't be saying half of what you are.
If you have 3.23s, forget all about gears unless you go to a 9"/12 bolt/8.8... It literally is a waste of money. Not only for the initial install but because you have a higher chance of breaking the rear and use more gas.
Like I said, more cons than pros. Let the stock stalled 373 guys "feel" like they are going fast when you pass them in your stock gear 3500 converter car.
If you have any other questions, feel free. You are listening/reading/etc.. I don't mind helping.
06-23-2013, 12:56 AM
#58
TO THE OP, As you can see, everyone thats screaming "go converter" All there backup proof is 60' times, ETs, Drag racing, and be only concerned with 3/4 throttle and up. Funny how they say Nothing about the "feel" or drivability" below 3600 rpms....where your at 99% of the time while driving your daily driver.
How many people do you hear on here down converters and talk up gears... How man do you hear talking up converters and downing gears?
*People that have done it both ways. There is no comparison. And yes, I have had both in 100% daily drivers. I will NEVER own a stock converter auto, EVER. People think 2.73s are bad. LOL The GFs car has them and breaks traction @60 going into 2nd gear and roasts them from a low roll/dig.
O and this gem of a comment:
Please don't compare gears for an auto to a manual, they aren't even the same universe.
I disagree & I had both.
Automatics and manuals aren't even in the same league when comparing what gears do for you and why they do it.
Ignorance is bliss I suppose.
06-23-2013, 04:13 AM
#59
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"2:73", "3:23", "3:73" are incorrect expressions of gear ratios.
Everything you are complaining about with stock gears and a stall is all a matter of your opinion and perception. You *feel* that the stock gear ratios are "bad" with a 3500+ stall, but not everyone is so extremely sensitive to looseness, in fact very few people are to that degree. There is nothing "bad" about this combo from a performance stand point, since there is little more than .10-.15 seconds of ET to be dropped from even a 2.73 to 3.73 swap on a 3500+ stalled LS1/4L60E combo. There is also nothing "bad" about how this combo will drive on the street at part throttle, unless you are super sensitive to looseness (which most aren't) or are only concerned with throttle feel at very low percentages. The idea that a higher stall is only "fun" or "useful" for a drag/race car is false. The idea that gear swaps come with no downsides is also false (as outlined by Lemons). And lastly, the fact that the OPs car already has 3.23s (that I can only assume are in good working order) makes the concept of installing a used, unknown 3.42 axle even more pointless....regardless of the stall speed.
Nothing is going to give you a "kick in the pants" (as most would define it) when you are driving normally at low rpms. Not a converter, and not gears.
Yes, with a higher stall it takes a bit more rpms to accelerate normally off a traffic light and such. It's not that big of a deal to most people, unless maybe you're talking about a 4500+ stall. You seem to be super sensitive to this particular aspect.
Acceleration will be much more explosive with a 3500+ stall and stock gears than with a stock stall and 3.73s. This is usually a key factor for anyone that's looking to improve performance - street or track, and most people don't find the low rpm looseness to be such a huge concern/negative.
Whats so funny? You buy a quality converter, your going to be in the 500 - 1000 range depending with what you go with.
Ok looks like I was right when I said $500 - $1000.
OK $200 - $300 for a used 10 bolt plus $50 for a speedometer recalibration. $350
Yes, had a camaro with 2:73s, added a 3600 stall (that sucked) added 3:73s = much better. Eventually added 4:10s, wasnt bad but I liked the 3:73s better with the auto. I also had a TT WS6 with a built 80e & a yank 3400 stall & 3:42 rear. That was nice setup.
Again, thank you for proving my point. Not everybody is concerned with racing the car every weekend or drag racing on the street and being at 3/4 throttle at all times. Some people want that extra "kick in the pants" at ALL RPMS.
Gears will give you that 100% of the time.
A converter will not give you that in the lower rpms while driving normal. To the OP With a converter, 99% of the time when your driving the car like normal, you give it gas, rpms go up, but the car slugs along until the converter locks up.
I disagree & I had both.
Again, I've had both & I disagree
Also, In your reference thread'S, the guy your speaking about is running a 234/242 111 LSA cam, Thats a pretty large cam. A converter is a MUST when running a cam like that. Completely Apples to oranges in this comparison.
The OP is talking about a daily driver and wanted something simple that will give him some extra kick.
TO THE OP, As you can see, everyone thats screaming "go converter" All there backup proof is 60' times, ETs, Drag racing, and be only concerned with 3/4 throttle and up. Funny how they say Nothing about the "feel" or drivability" below 3600 rpms....where your at 99% of the time while driving your daily driver.
All they have been preaching is how bad *** a converter is when your jumping on the gas. Im not arguing with that point. Im arguing about how the car will drive & feel 99% of the time when your below 3500 rpm.
Install a 3:42 rearend and you will feel the difference in any style of driving, from idle to redline, weather your driving normal on the back roads, cruising along on the highway, or got the gas to floor.
Ok looks like I was right when I said $500 - $1000.
OK $200 - $300 for a used 10 bolt plus $50 for a speedometer recalibration. $350
Yes, had a camaro with 2:73s, added a 3600 stall (that sucked) added 3:73s = much better. Eventually added 4:10s, wasnt bad but I liked the 3:73s better with the auto. I also had a TT WS6 with a built 80e & a yank 3400 stall & 3:42 rear. That was nice setup.
Again, thank you for proving my point. Not everybody is concerned with racing the car every weekend or drag racing on the street and being at 3/4 throttle at all times. Some people want that extra "kick in the pants" at ALL RPMS.
Gears will give you that 100% of the time.
A converter will not give you that in the lower rpms while driving normal. To the OP With a converter, 99% of the time when your driving the car like normal, you give it gas, rpms go up, but the car slugs along until the converter locks up.
I disagree & I had both.
Again, I've had both & I disagree
Also, In your reference thread'S, the guy your speaking about is running a 234/242 111 LSA cam, Thats a pretty large cam. A converter is a MUST when running a cam like that. Completely Apples to oranges in this comparison.
The OP is talking about a daily driver and wanted something simple that will give him some extra kick.
TO THE OP, As you can see, everyone thats screaming "go converter" All there backup proof is 60' times, ETs, Drag racing, and be only concerned with 3/4 throttle and up. Funny how they say Nothing about the "feel" or drivability" below 3600 rpms....where your at 99% of the time while driving your daily driver.
All they have been preaching is how bad *** a converter is when your jumping on the gas. Im not arguing with that point. Im arguing about how the car will drive & feel 99% of the time when your below 3500 rpm.
Install a 3:42 rearend and you will feel the difference in any style of driving, from idle to redline, weather your driving normal on the back roads, cruising along on the highway, or got the gas to floor.
Some people want that extra "kick in the pants" at ALL RPMS.
Gears will give you that 100% of the time.
A converter will not give you that in the lower rpms while driving normal. To the OP With a converter, 99% of the time when your driving the car like normal, you give it gas, rpms go up, but the car slugs along until the converter locks up.
Gears will give you that 100% of the time.
A converter will not give you that in the lower rpms while driving normal. To the OP With a converter, 99% of the time when your driving the car like normal, you give it gas, rpms go up, but the car slugs along until the converter locks up.
Yes, with a higher stall it takes a bit more rpms to accelerate normally off a traffic light and such. It's not that big of a deal to most people, unless maybe you're talking about a 4500+ stall. You seem to be super sensitive to this particular aspect.
Acceleration will be much more explosive with a 3500+ stall and stock gears than with a stock stall and 3.73s. This is usually a key factor for anyone that's looking to improve performance - street or track, and most people don't find the low rpm looseness to be such a huge concern/negative.
Last edited by RPM WS6; 06-23-2013 at 04:57 AM.
06-23-2013, 01:58 PM
#60
[QUOTE=RPM WS6;17495304] Why do you keep pointing this out? When someone says "i have 3:42s" or I have 4:10s in the rear, most people with common sense understands what he is saying. I dont give a rats *** that "its an incorrect expression"
I feel bad for the guy that tells you he has "cam only" or "Heads n Cam" Talk about "an incorrect expression"
This is the only thing I will agree with you on. I've experienced everything we've discussed. You have your preference, I have mine. We will never agree. I dont care how many threads you pull up to throw in my face. Fact is, alot of people like gears over the stall, and alot of people like the stall over gears.
"2:73", "3:23", "3:73" are incorrect expressions of gear ratios.
I feel bad for the guy that tells you he has "cam only" or "Heads n Cam" Talk about "an incorrect expression"
And lastly, the fact that the OPs car already has 3.23s (that I can only assume are in good working order) makes the concept of installing a used, unknown 3.42 axle even more pointless....regardless of the stall speed.
Last edited by 30th t/a; 06-23-2013 at 02:05 PM.