Sold Viper: bought TA, What Handeling Mods and basic performance mods first?
05-03-2004, 01:01 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by 99ViperACR
I just put an order in for SLP subframe connectors (weld on) and an SLP Airbox Lid. Should I go for the whole SLP airbox cold air kit? Will even the Airbox Lid help over the stock WS-6 ram air setup? Thanks in advance for info.
05-03-2004, 11:26 PM
#22
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I am running HRE 543 wheels, 19x10.5 rear and 18x9 front and Pirelli P Zeros.
HRE's are great wheels, had 19x13 19x10 540's on the Viper, only complaint was had to get them fixed too often (too deep of a dish) but great weight.
Ordered strut tower brace and a torque arm, next I think I'm going to go with struts/springs, what are your suggestions?
HRE's are great wheels, had 19x13 19x10 540's on the Viper, only complaint was had to get them fixed too often (too deep of a dish) but great weight.
Ordered strut tower brace and a torque arm, next I think I'm going to go with struts/springs, what are your suggestions?
05-03-2004, 11:44 PM
#23
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Congrats on your purchase.
If you want someone to talk to about mods in order on your car call Paul @ Thunder Racing he's a standup guy and knows his stuff. Their number is 1-877-516-RACE. I've always had exceptional customer service with them.
If you want someone to talk to about mods in order on your car call Paul @ Thunder Racing he's a standup guy and knows his stuff. Their number is 1-877-516-RACE. I've always had exceptional customer service with them. 
05-04-2004, 09:35 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by distortion_69
"Okay, I'm now considering registering the car to my nevada adress, what cam should I get if I'm not worried about passing smog?"
If you don't mind a rough idle, and want a cam with decent drivability after a tune there are about a zillion cams to choose from. I'll name just a few and you can possibly do a search for them:
Thunder Racing 230
Texas Speed 231/231
Texas Speed 231/237
Texas Speed 228R
Motorsport Technologies X1
Futral Motorsports F10-F13
LG Motorsports G5X-2 & G5X-3
This is just a few out of the CRAPLOAD of cams. However, these are a few of the more popular ones and almost all of these have at some point made 400rwhp stock heads with all boltons at one point. Some of the larger ones on the list have made 420-430rwhp on stock heads. With a nice set of heads you could possibly have a car that could run with or beat your old viper if setup properly. Some of these are more tame than others, but almost all of them will guarantee one hell of a performance upgrade from stock. Longtubes are a must for optimal performance.
Josh
If you don't mind a rough idle, and want a cam with decent drivability after a tune there are about a zillion cams to choose from. I'll name just a few and you can possibly do a search for them:
Thunder Racing 230
Texas Speed 231/231
Texas Speed 231/237
Texas Speed 228R
Motorsport Technologies X1
Futral Motorsports F10-F13
LG Motorsports G5X-2 & G5X-3
This is just a few out of the CRAPLOAD of cams. However, these are a few of the more popular ones and almost all of these have at some point made 400rwhp stock heads with all boltons at one point. Some of the larger ones on the list have made 420-430rwhp on stock heads. With a nice set of heads you could possibly have a car that could run with or beat your old viper if setup properly. Some of these are more tame than others, but almost all of them will guarantee one hell of a performance upgrade from stock. Longtubes are a must for optimal performance.
Josh
First mods:
1. Subframe connectors
2. Lid (a must)
3. Shocks and springs (I love my SLP bilstein shocks and Hypercoil springs)
4. Adjustable panhard rod (to correct for lowering)
5. Lower control carm relocating brackets (correct for lowering)
If emissions are not a concern:
6. Long tube headers (Probably kook's)
7. Camshaft (Do a search here and do lots of research about the driving habbits of each camshaft)
8. Good ported heads
If emissions are a concern:
6.'01+ F-body manifolds & SLP aftercat Y pipe
7.Centrifugal blower set at or below 6# of boost with a nice safe tune and some injectors
05-04-2004, 09:53 AM
#26
I hear ya on the handling w/ these cars. I have crazy wheel hop and for that i have Hotchkis rear trialing arms and adjustable panhard rod. If you have wheel hop i also heard an adjustable torque arm might be necessary. Supposedly adj. panhard rod is a must for lowered cars. I have the B&M 1" lowering springs and i just put in Bilstein shocks....very happy w/ the setup, not too low, but deffinatly enough to notice less gap in the wheel wells. SLP strut tower brace and SFC's are on as of this year too, HUGE difference w/ the SFC's. Other than that, ive heard more than 100% on Hals QA1's so i would go w/ that. Only reason i didnt is b/c i dont have the money yet. I agree w/ everyone else on the headers and the SLP warning, i was about to do the SLP longtubes but everyone said not to b/c clearance is an issue w/ lowered cars. If you have the money, go w/ QTP or Kooks. Loudmouth sounds sweet...nice choice w/ that. Good luck w/ everything and welcome to the wide world of F-bodys! 
05-07-2004, 12:51 AM
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Okay, just got the strut tower bracer today and put it on. Have subframe connectors, air lid, loudmouth on way.
I'm actually thinking about changing out the cam next, if emmisions are not a concern what cam would you guys recommend and what other mods are a "Must" to do when changing the cam. Also what kind of rwhp #'s can I expect with the specific cam's (and other stuff that's already on way) and what else will I need to do to get to around 350-400rwhp. Thanks again
I'm actually thinking about changing out the cam next, if emmisions are not a concern what cam would you guys recommend and what other mods are a "Must" to do when changing the cam. Also what kind of rwhp #'s can I expect with the specific cam's (and other stuff that's already on way) and what else will I need to do to get to around 350-400rwhp. Thanks again
05-07-2004, 06:38 AM
#28
To optimize the results of putting in a cam, you have to get headers on the car first. If you're only gunning for aound 350-400hp, it shouldn't be too hard. I didn't catch if you were running a M6 or an Auto...either way, I reccomend a 220/220 or similiar cam...these coupled with a set of headers, a ls6 intake, and a good tune should easily drop you right in the middle of the 350-400rwhp range you wanted.....pluse a 220/220 is a fairly small cam by today's standards, and should be quite easy to pass emissions with it considering you're tune is good.
With your car, i'd go with Mac mid length headers and run their y-pipe with the cats in it. That way the gains will be great with a cam, will have good ground clearance, and will pass emissions with the cats in the y-pipe still...kook's and QTP and even Hooker are great and all....but unless you're making 400+hp...the gains of those over mac's are negligable..and you can get the entire headers/y-pipe/cats for around $300 in the parts section of this site usually.
Tim
With your car, i'd go with Mac mid length headers and run their y-pipe with the cats in it. That way the gains will be great with a cam, will have good ground clearance, and will pass emissions with the cats in the y-pipe still...kook's and QTP and even Hooker are great and all....but unless you're making 400+hp...the gains of those over mac's are negligable..and you can get the entire headers/y-pipe/cats for around $300 in the parts section of this site usually.
Tim