HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Okay guys i'm trying to help a buddy here who is looking at a bone stock 2002 WS6, A4 with 3.23 gears and 50,000 miles. First, how much rwhp/rwtq can the stock 4L60E auto trans take? He is looking to immediately do a mild HCI combo, or a couple bolt ons and a 100 shot...either one probably putting him around the 400 rwhp mark. Ideally he wants to do the HCI plus a 100-150 shot or a small amount boost. It will be a street car 99% of the time with maybe 1 or 2 track visits a year. He mainly roll races, and will probably throw some drag radials on the rear.

Secondly, he easily change the heads with the motor in the car correct? He won't have to drop part of the trans, motor, or anything like that right?

The heads will be stock LS2 heads, the cam will be a Torquer V2, and a stock LS6 intake. Does he get a bump in compression by going with the LS2 heads? Also part of his concern is the stock torque converter with this HCI combo. Will drivability be kind of bad with stock stall on this combo? If so, what stall should he consider? Remember it's a street car that will only occassionally see the track.

And finally, he might go and check it out this weekend. What are some of the things he should be looking for? I was thinking the t-tops, headlight assembly and motor, trans, etc...

Any and all help is much appreciated here!

Thanks

conan

iTrader: (5)

The heads aren't too bad to lift with the motor in the car, I've pulled mine out with studs in the block. I would do some long tubes at this time since you have to disassemble the exhaust to pull the heads.

As far as the transmission, a stall converter should be a must, most will recommend it before a cam. It will wake the car up quite a bit.

What is the casting # of the heads your going to use ???

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the reply! The heads are bone stock and off a 06 GTO. Those are 243's right? Will that bump his compression as well? He is definitely doing a full long tube exhaust setup, ORY, and catback. We weren't sure if the cam was big enough to really effect the driveability without a stall, but from what you're saying it is? I know it will perform better with a good stall, but wasn't sure about the general driving characteristics. Do you you know if the stall will cause added stress to 4L60E trans? We are still trying to get some feedback on this

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Iv had my stall for over 30k with drag radials. 50 track passes maybe more. My car has 123k including trans and 10 bolt.
12k on heads and cam.
I wouldn't do a cam without stall.

Mazzenger

iTrader: (5)

My 4L60e was taking 430rwhp and with a 3500 stall and had no issues.
Heads can be changed with the motor still in the car.

There shouldn't be any real drivability issues with the stock stall and that cam, other than it won't be any faster than it was before the cam. There will be little to no visible performance gains (other than on the dyno) if a higher stall converter is not installed with that cam. The car will bog. The cam and converter work together.

Check out everything on all autos that you are considering for purchase.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys! You both look like you're doing fine in the 400 rwhp range with stock trans then, which is good to hear. I didn't realize the car wouldn't be any faster at all with the stock stall, even with the added power...very good to know. He has no problem buying a stall. He was just hoping it wasn't all that cruical, but it sounds like it's pretty much necessary in his case

justin hover

Very necessary!! Without a higher stall his car will buck and serge...power through the brakes...act like a pig off the line...probably stall at stop lights and reverse..and no possibility of roll racing.. Its essential when doing heads cam. A 3600 for a v2 would be alright...
I had my trans rebuilt just because, but it should hold up to 500hp easily.

JOHNNY59

iTrader: (398)

I guess the car is in Michigan so check under the car for rust. since its a t-top car make sure you check the rear seat foot wells for rust! most t-tops leak and the water runs to the lowest point in the car and that's the foot wells. I have passed on a couple of cars because of this rust as its a big pain in the *** to fix! good luck.

garygnu

your friend should install new lifters ,oil pump,ls2 chain ,and rocker trunnion bearings also .install a deeper pan and a trans cooler with a new converter .rebuild the trans before you break it .make sure the power steering cooler is like new on the inside ,or delete it .check the power steering pump .change the motor mounts when swapping the heads .

Mike Morris

iTrader: (55)

To make the trans live he must be religious changing the fluid and get a good cooler. Making the car as light as possible is good too. If he can afford it a Transgo is an excellent addition and can be installed while tranny is in the car

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Definitely some good info here, thank guys! Sounds like the auto trans needs more up keep and prevenative maintainenece to keep it healthy. What i'm getting here is that the stock 4L60K will probably be okay at around 400 rwhp (it will be a street car 99% of the time anyways) but is really riding the razors edge with a 100-150 shot or a small amount of boost. Would that be correct? He is not going to skimp on things like lifters, trans cooler, rockers, etc, etc... Basically the car is bone stock, has 50,000 miles and is 10K. He has a budget of 4K to play with right from the get go. The stall sounds like a no brainer as well

Mike Morris

iTrader: (55)

A deeper pan would be ideal too off of a truck. Anything to keep it cool.