Help me get better 1/4 mile results?
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Help me get better 1/4 mile results?
So I went to the track tonight. First time out after the cam install. When I was just bolt ons I went 13.2 @109mph with a 2.2 60ft spinning on street tires. DA was around 1100ft ("corrected" time of 13.0 @ 110mph).
Well tonight I went out to the track with high hopes and was very disappointed. I did a best of 13.0 at 112mph with a 2.1 60ft. DA was around 2000ft tonight so corrected time calculates to around a 12.69 at 114mph. I feel like thats still very slow and still in bolt on territory.... I was on Toyo TQ drag radials and the car was hooking up good on 3k RPM launches but it would bog badly which is why the 60ft is what it is... I was scared to try a 4k or higher launch for the sake of the 10 bolt. They were aired up to 30psi, which I know is very high but thats what I had them at for the drive to the track. I was planning to lower the psi but on the first pass they hooked up fine so I left it as is. Perhaps the tire pressure could have had something to do with the bogging? How many tenths do I have to gain if I can learn how to launch it without it bogging down?
So what Im confused about is how the hell is everyone and their mom on this forum running 11s cam only like its a walk in the park? Even with not so great 1.9-2.0 60fts people are going bottom 12s-high 11s in positive DA. Even people with cams that are frowned upon like the GM Hotcams have gone 11s at 114+mph in good air. So why is my car so slow? It just doesnt make sense to me. I am not financially prepared for a new rear end yet and dont want to do anything that will stress my 10 bolt to the point of breaking, but are there any other mods you guys would recommend next (suspension stuff maybe) to improve my 1/4 results?
I was just dropping the clutch at 3k and hitting the gas. Is there maybe a better technique I could use to reduce bogging and improve my 60ft or do I just need to launch at a higher rpm? All my mods are in my sig.
Well tonight I went out to the track with high hopes and was very disappointed. I did a best of 13.0 at 112mph with a 2.1 60ft. DA was around 2000ft tonight so corrected time calculates to around a 12.69 at 114mph. I feel like thats still very slow and still in bolt on territory.... I was on Toyo TQ drag radials and the car was hooking up good on 3k RPM launches but it would bog badly which is why the 60ft is what it is... I was scared to try a 4k or higher launch for the sake of the 10 bolt. They were aired up to 30psi, which I know is very high but thats what I had them at for the drive to the track. I was planning to lower the psi but on the first pass they hooked up fine so I left it as is. Perhaps the tire pressure could have had something to do with the bogging? How many tenths do I have to gain if I can learn how to launch it without it bogging down?
So what Im confused about is how the hell is everyone and their mom on this forum running 11s cam only like its a walk in the park? Even with not so great 1.9-2.0 60fts people are going bottom 12s-high 11s in positive DA. Even people with cams that are frowned upon like the GM Hotcams have gone 11s at 114+mph in good air. So why is my car so slow? It just doesnt make sense to me. I am not financially prepared for a new rear end yet and dont want to do anything that will stress my 10 bolt to the point of breaking, but are there any other mods you guys would recommend next (suspension stuff maybe) to improve my 1/4 results?
I was just dropping the clutch at 3k and hitting the gas. Is there maybe a better technique I could use to reduce bogging and improve my 60ft or do I just need to launch at a higher rpm? All my mods are in my sig.
Last edited by badformulaLS1; 07-24-2014 at 08:16 AM.
#3
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60ft is a big part of it. 1.8 60 ft would get you down to around 12.5 alone.
Are you power shifting? Is the car tuned? What does it weigh?
In my experience, LS1tech makes times seem easier than they are for most cars/people. I have never seen a cam/bolt on fbody at my local track go 11s yet this site is littered with bolt on cars doing it.
Are you power shifting? Is the car tuned? What does it weigh?
In my experience, LS1tech makes times seem easier than they are for most cars/people. I have never seen a cam/bolt on fbody at my local track go 11s yet this site is littered with bolt on cars doing it.
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I don't see rearend gear ratio in your sig so I'm assuming you're still stock 3.42s'.
If you're dumping the clutch(and if the clutch is good and not slipping any),as soon as solid clutch engagement occurs,the engine is forced down to an undesirable engine rpm(not where you want to be in the low end where torque and hp is still not up in the more desirable range),hence the bogging. 4,10s' would help,but I've seen 6M with 4.10s' in a 12 bolt and a good strong clutch bog immediately after clutch engagement because rpm was drug down too low.
The old 'art' of the old days(60s' & 70s') of slipping/sliding the clutch to keep rpm up in 1st doesn't exist anymore,and understandably so because disc replacement and flywheel/pressure plate resurfacing was a common Monday occurrence after a Sunday of racing.
If you're dumping the clutch(and if the clutch is good and not slipping any),as soon as solid clutch engagement occurs,the engine is forced down to an undesirable engine rpm(not where you want to be in the low end where torque and hp is still not up in the more desirable range),hence the bogging. 4,10s' would help,but I've seen 6M with 4.10s' in a 12 bolt and a good strong clutch bog immediately after clutch engagement because rpm was drug down too low.
The old 'art' of the old days(60s' & 70s') of slipping/sliding the clutch to keep rpm up in 1st doesn't exist anymore,and understandably so because disc replacement and flywheel/pressure plate resurfacing was a common Monday occurrence after a Sunday of racing.
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60ft is a big part of it. 1.8 60 ft would get you down to around 12.5 alone.
Are you power shifting? Is the car tuned? What does it weigh?
In my experience, LS1tech makes times seem easier than they are for most cars/people. I have never seen a cam/bolt on fbody at my local track go 11s yet this site is littered with bolt on cars doing it.
Are you power shifting? Is the car tuned? What does it weigh?
In my experience, LS1tech makes times seem easier than they are for most cars/people. I have never seen a cam/bolt on fbody at my local track go 11s yet this site is littered with bolt on cars doing it.
And the last part of your post is so true. It seems that according to the results I see posted here on a regular basis, if a cammed LS1 isnt going 11s or low 12s at the very least then there is a problem... And its normal for any bolt on car with drag radials to go mid-high 12s too. Which is why I made this post cause my results dont even begin to compare with what seems to be the norm for my mods.
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I don't see rearend gear ratio in your sig so I'm assuming you're still stock 3.42s'.
If you're dumping the clutch(and if the clutch is good and not slipping any),as soon as solid clutch engagement occurs,the engine is forced down to an undesirable engine rpm(not where you want to be in the low end where torque and hp is still not up in the more desirable range),hence the bogging. 4,10s' would help,but I've seen 6M with 4.10s' in a 12 bolt and a good strong clutch bog immediately after clutch engagement because rpm was drug down too low.
The old 'art' of the old days(60s' & 70s') of slipping/sliding the clutch to keep rpm up in 1st doesn't exist anymore,and understandably so because disc replacement and flywheel/pressure plate resurfacing was a common Monday occurrence after a Sunday of racing.
If you're dumping the clutch(and if the clutch is good and not slipping any),as soon as solid clutch engagement occurs,the engine is forced down to an undesirable engine rpm(not where you want to be in the low end where torque and hp is still not up in the more desirable range),hence the bogging. 4,10s' would help,but I've seen 6M with 4.10s' in a 12 bolt and a good strong clutch bog immediately after clutch engagement because rpm was drug down too low.
The old 'art' of the old days(60s' & 70s') of slipping/sliding the clutch to keep rpm up in 1st doesn't exist anymore,and understandably so because disc replacement and flywheel/pressure plate resurfacing was a common Monday occurrence after a Sunday of racing.
Only suspension is whats in my sig. Panhard bar, and shocks/springs which I know don't do much. I am not sure that my tune is perfect. But other than you guys asking about my tune I don't really have a reason to suspect it to be a problem. Perhaps I should have a different tuner look it over?
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im asking who tuned your car meaning a professional or a handheld self tuner or mail order tune? my first tune was mail order & i did ask for a street friendly tune which left alot of power on the table. after retune on the dyno much better over the entire powerband.
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He is a professional local tuner. Not a big name that people on forums are going to know though. He used HP Tuners and he spent a a few hours on the tune both on the dyno and on the street. The car made 380whp on a dynojet in very hot and humid conditions (Air temp was around 98 degrees and IATs were at 150+ degrees, so not sure if there could have been more gains in better weather).
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Tune is probably good, just making sure you had one.
I do not have a lot of manual trans experience. But I rarely see bolt on cars run 12.9s or better and usually they are 108-110 mph cars here.
The way you say it leaves, bogs, then picks up again might be an indication something is setting off the knock sensors and pulling timing then adding it back in. This could be headers or torque arm banging on something and sending vibrations into the engine which the PCM sees as knock.
I do not have a lot of manual trans experience. But I rarely see bolt on cars run 12.9s or better and usually they are 108-110 mph cars here.
The way you say it leaves, bogs, then picks up again might be an indication something is setting off the knock sensors and pulling timing then adding it back in. This could be headers or torque arm banging on something and sending vibrations into the engine which the PCM sees as knock.
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Tune is probably good, just making sure you had one.
I do not have a lot of manual trans experience. But I rarely see bolt on cars run 12.9s or better and usually they are 108-110 mph cars here.
The way you say it leaves, bogs, then picks up again might be an indication something is setting off the knock sensors and pulling timing then adding it back in. This could be headers or torque arm banging on something and sending vibrations into the engine which the PCM sees as knock.
I do not have a lot of manual trans experience. But I rarely see bolt on cars run 12.9s or better and usually they are 108-110 mph cars here.
The way you say it leaves, bogs, then picks up again might be an indication something is setting off the knock sensors and pulling timing then adding it back in. This could be headers or torque arm banging on something and sending vibrations into the engine which the PCM sees as knock.
This isn't my car. But it shows pretty much what my car is doing on the launch. His ET and mph seems to suffer from it quite a bit too.
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Well besides launching at a higher RPM, is there any way to stop the car from falling out of the power band like that? Will suspension, like LCAs, torque arm, ect. help? Should I try slipping the clutch? Or am I screwed until I get a rear that can handle launches at 4k+?
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Well besides launching at a higher RPM, is there any way to stop the car from falling out of the power band like that? Will suspension, like LCAs, torque arm, ect. help? Should I try slipping the clutch? Or am I screwed until I get a rear that can handle launches at 4k+?