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Help me get better 1/4 mile results?

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Old 07-23-2014, 10:47 PM
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Default Help me get better 1/4 mile results?

So I went to the track tonight. First time out after the cam install. When I was just bolt ons I went 13.2 @109mph with a 2.2 60ft spinning on street tires. DA was around 1100ft ("corrected" time of 13.0 @ 110mph).

Well tonight I went out to the track with high hopes and was very disappointed. I did a best of 13.0 at 112mph with a 2.1 60ft. DA was around 2000ft tonight so corrected time calculates to around a 12.69 at 114mph. I feel like thats still very slow and still in bolt on territory.... I was on Toyo TQ drag radials and the car was hooking up good on 3k RPM launches but it would bog badly which is why the 60ft is what it is... I was scared to try a 4k or higher launch for the sake of the 10 bolt. They were aired up to 30psi, which I know is very high but thats what I had them at for the drive to the track. I was planning to lower the psi but on the first pass they hooked up fine so I left it as is. Perhaps the tire pressure could have had something to do with the bogging? How many tenths do I have to gain if I can learn how to launch it without it bogging down?

So what Im confused about is how the hell is everyone and their mom on this forum running 11s cam only like its a walk in the park? Even with not so great 1.9-2.0 60fts people are going bottom 12s-high 11s in positive DA. Even people with cams that are frowned upon like the GM Hotcams have gone 11s at 114+mph in good air. So why is my car so slow? It just doesnt make sense to me. I am not financially prepared for a new rear end yet and dont want to do anything that will stress my 10 bolt to the point of breaking, but are there any other mods you guys would recommend next (suspension stuff maybe) to improve my 1/4 results?

I was just dropping the clutch at 3k and hitting the gas. Is there maybe a better technique I could use to reduce bogging and improve my 60ft or do I just need to launch at a higher rpm? All my mods are in my sig.

Last edited by badformulaLS1; 07-24-2014 at 08:16 AM.
Old 07-24-2014, 07:47 AM
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Anyone...?
Old 07-24-2014, 08:39 AM
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60ft is a big part of it. 1.8 60 ft would get you down to around 12.5 alone.

Are you power shifting? Is the car tuned? What does it weigh?


In my experience, LS1tech makes times seem easier than they are for most cars/people. I have never seen a cam/bolt on fbody at my local track go 11s yet this site is littered with bolt on cars doing it.
Old 07-24-2014, 08:52 AM
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I don't see rearend gear ratio in your sig so I'm assuming you're still stock 3.42s'.
If you're dumping the clutch(and if the clutch is good and not slipping any),as soon as solid clutch engagement occurs,the engine is forced down to an undesirable engine rpm(not where you want to be in the low end where torque and hp is still not up in the more desirable range),hence the bogging. 4,10s' would help,but I've seen 6M with 4.10s' in a 12 bolt and a good strong clutch bog immediately after clutch engagement because rpm was drug down too low.
The old 'art' of the old days(60s' & 70s') of slipping/sliding the clutch to keep rpm up in 1st doesn't exist anymore,and understandably so because disc replacement and flywheel/pressure plate resurfacing was a common Monday occurrence after a Sunday of racing.
Old 07-24-2014, 08:59 AM
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A 114 mph trap sounds about right to me if the car is full weight. What do you think it should be trapping?
Old 07-24-2014, 09:04 AM
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do you have the suspension mods such as sfc, lca's w relocation brackets, torque arm? maybe your not getting all your power to the ground. are you sure your tune is perfect?
Old 07-24-2014, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by thunderstruck507
60ft is a big part of it. 1.8 60 ft would get you down to around 12.5 alone.

Are you power shifting? Is the car tuned? What does it weigh?


In my experience, LS1tech makes times seem easier than they are for most cars/people. I have never seen a cam/bolt on fbody at my local track go 11s yet this site is littered with bolt on cars doing it.
Thanks for the response. I am not power shifting. However I believe I am shifting about as fast as humanly possible without power shifting. The shifts are very fast, at least from my perspective. Car is tuned, seems to drive well and accelerates hard on the street, should I be questioning the quality of the tune as a possible problem? And the car is close to stock weight with only the spare tire and jack removed, and the gas tank was about 70% full. The car hooks and takes off for just a split second off the line and then falls on it's face and then takes off again after falling way out of the power band down to like 1k rpm. I know the bogging is killing my 60ft and hurting my ET and maybe my mph too, so if theres a way I could reduce bogging (besides simply dropping the clutch from a higher rpm and blowing the 10 bolt) I know that would really help me cut some time off and maybe pick up 1-2mph at the finish line too.

And the last part of your post is so true. It seems that according to the results I see posted here on a regular basis, if a cammed LS1 isnt going 11s or low 12s at the very least then there is a problem... And its normal for any bolt on car with drag radials to go mid-high 12s too. Which is why I made this post cause my results dont even begin to compare with what seems to be the norm for my mods.
Old 07-24-2014, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by FirstYrLS1Z
I don't see rearend gear ratio in your sig so I'm assuming you're still stock 3.42s'.
If you're dumping the clutch(and if the clutch is good and not slipping any),as soon as solid clutch engagement occurs,the engine is forced down to an undesirable engine rpm(not where you want to be in the low end where torque and hp is still not up in the more desirable range),hence the bogging. 4,10s' would help,but I've seen 6M with 4.10s' in a 12 bolt and a good strong clutch bog immediately after clutch engagement because rpm was drug down too low.
The old 'art' of the old days(60s' & 70s') of slipping/sliding the clutch to keep rpm up in 1st doesn't exist anymore,and understandably so because disc replacement and flywheel/pressure plate resurfacing was a common Monday occurrence after a Sunday of racing.
Yeah I am currently stock gears. Don't want to change gear in the stock rear end cause I feel like its a waste of money cause one hard launch and its done. If you've seen even cars with 4.10s and a 12 bolt do it how would you suggest countering the problem? I thought about slipping the clutch I just don't know how to do it. I don't want to change my clutch the next day either lol.

Originally Posted by HCI2000SS
A 114 mph trap sounds about right to me if the car is full weight. What do you think it should be trapping?
I was thinking 114-117. Only thing I have to base that assumption off of is all of the cam only results I see on here. The thing is though my 114mph is in perfect air, when others here are doing 114 and higher in positive DA.

Originally Posted by DANOZ28
do you have the suspension mods such as sfc, lca's w relocation brackets, torque arm? maybe your not getting all your power to the ground. are you sure your tune is perfect?
Only suspension is whats in my sig. Panhard bar, and shocks/springs which I know don't do much. I am not sure that my tune is perfect. But other than you guys asking about my tune I don't really have a reason to suspect it to be a problem. Perhaps I should have a different tuner look it over?
Old 07-24-2014, 09:22 AM
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im asking who tuned your car meaning a professional or a handheld self tuner or mail order tune? my first tune was mail order & i did ask for a street friendly tune which left alot of power on the table. after retune on the dyno much better over the entire powerband.
Old 07-24-2014, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by DANOZ28
im asking who tuned your car meaning a professional or a handheld self tuner or mail order tune? my first tune was mail order & i did ask for a street friendly tune which left alot of power on the table. after retune on the dyno much better over the entire powerband.
He is a professional local tuner. Not a big name that people on forums are going to know though. He used HP Tuners and he spent a a few hours on the tune both on the dyno and on the street. The car made 380whp on a dynojet in very hot and humid conditions (Air temp was around 98 degrees and IATs were at 150+ degrees, so not sure if there could have been more gains in better weather).
Old 07-24-2014, 09:31 AM
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are you getting any wheelhop?
Old 07-24-2014, 09:36 AM
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Tune is probably good, just making sure you had one.

I do not have a lot of manual trans experience. But I rarely see bolt on cars run 12.9s or better and usually they are 108-110 mph cars here.

The way you say it leaves, bogs, then picks up again might be an indication something is setting off the knock sensors and pulling timing then adding it back in. This could be headers or torque arm banging on something and sending vibrations into the engine which the PCM sees as knock.
Old 07-24-2014, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by thunderstruck507
Tune is probably good, just making sure you had one.

I do not have a lot of manual trans experience. But I rarely see bolt on cars run 12.9s or better and usually they are 108-110 mph cars here.

The way you say it leaves, bogs, then picks up again might be an indication something is setting off the knock sensors and pulling timing then adding it back in. This could be headers or torque arm banging on something and sending vibrations into the engine which the PCM sees as knock.
Thats interesting I hadn't thought of that. How would I go about determining if the car is doing that?

This isn't my car. But it shows pretty much what my car is doing on the launch. His ET and mph seems to suffer from it quite a bit too.


Old 07-24-2014, 09:59 AM
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well if a new torque arm isnt in the budget maybe try just a poly mount on the end of your factory arm.
Old 07-24-2014, 10:03 AM
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Looking at those vids doesn't have the 'drastic bogging' as I typically see with M6 1st gear. The front end rises at launch then drops more than it should while still in 1st indicating loss of accelerationability due to the drop in powerband.
Old 07-24-2014, 11:15 AM
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Well besides launching at a higher RPM, is there any way to stop the car from falling out of the power band like that? Will suspension, like LCAs, torque arm, ect. help? Should I try slipping the clutch? Or am I screwed until I get a rear that can handle launches at 4k+?
Old 07-26-2014, 01:29 PM
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LCA'S and relocation brackets will make an improvement when I installed them on my car it felt more planted when I launched. Noticed more of an improvement with the LCAS and brackets then I did my Torque arm.
Old 09-08-2014, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by badformulaLS1
Well besides launching at a higher RPM, is there any way to stop the car from falling out of the power band like that? Will suspension, like LCAs, torque arm, ect. help? Should I try slipping the clutch? Or am I screwed until I get a rear that can handle launches at 4k+?
In for an answer. I'm having issues with my car bogging as well. I know this is an old thread but I was searching before posting



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