macattack0821

Recently came into some spending money, and my first task is to spend some on my car. I have a couple ideas in mind, namely:

SFC's
Eibach Pro Plus Kit (springs and anti-roll bars)
Cam

The SFC's are easy enough to go with, my questions though center around the springs and the cam.

In regards to the springs, I wasn't planning on upgrading the shocks just yet, but as I think about it, it doesnt seem to make sense to upgrade the springs and not the shocks. My question is will it make any difference if i leave the stock shocks, or should they be upgraded as well?

My second question concerns the cam. I am a little knowledgeable when it comes to my car, but cams are outside my purview. My question is what is the best cam setup for my car, and would I need to upgrade anything else in order to get the most out of the cam setup?

Thanks in advance guys!

autogeek23

iTrader: (13)

I would upgrade the shocks if you can afford it. I went with slp bilstein shocks. Do some research on those. I love mine. They are valved foot a lowered car. I recommend bmr springs or strano. I've heard eibachs are very stiff and cause a harsh ride.

As far as cam. Any other mods? With a cam you should do header so that engine can breathe.

Purpose of the car? Daily? Weekend warrior? That all comes into play with what size cam. Mid 230 duration and ppl will say anything over 600 lift isn't ideal.

Also is it auto or manual? If auto it's recommended to get a stall converter. car will perform a lot better.

There are a lot of threads in the newbie section to help you with what cam to get.

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

did you upgrade your TC?

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

When you buy a cam you will need new lifter's, valve springs, push rods, rockers. Id go ahead and do a Trunion upgrade.

378ci

1) I'd skip the SFC's if I were you. Just added weight and you won't notice much of a difference if any honestly.

2) Do shocks with the springs. You'll save the cost of labor and the performance will be night and day.

3) Regarding the cam, your best bet is to contact a sponsor here and tell them what your goals are.

Good Luck!

springer_4

iTrader: (9)

I agreed do not do eibach springs, BMR or Strano plus I made the mistake of not going with bilsteins the first time. Now I'm paying extra labor to have them installed....\Basic Bolt on's first, Lid, Intake, headers, Exhaust. Cam swap adds up fast...........

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

What trans do you have? If 60e doing a cam will be pointless bc the trans will break. Also if 60e get a better trans cooler. If its a T56 then build the rear end or buy a 12 bolt. But basically doing a cam with out building other things first may cause you more trouble and wasted money.

JD_AMG

As already stated, what are you goals and how much money exactly do you have?
For handling good shocks will make more of a difference than any other suspension mod, that is the last thing you want to skip out on. Spend the most you can on [good]shocks as it will make or break the setup. And if you are after handling stay away from drag shocks like QA1, strange, Afco and Viking. If you put lowering springs on with the stock decarbon shocks the ride and handling will be loose, floaty and jarring as the stock shocks cannot dampen the stock springs very well, none the less lower and stiffer springs.
A cam upgrade isn't just the cam, you need the supporting mods (including a dyno tune) as well to make it safe and work correctly, so you need to add that cost in as well. You should also have full exhaust before considering a cam.

macattack0821

You are echoing a common thread on here, I think, by not favoring Eibach products. I will definitely look into Bilstien, as that seems to be a product everyone recommends. As far as other mods that I have, I've got long tube headers, cat back exhaust, and an SLP lid. The car is a daily driver for now, and will probably stay that way for the foreseeable future.

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

id get a stall and tires.


for shocks contract sam strano for some konis.

macattack0821

Should have stated my goals/budget in the original post, totally slipped my mind. My goal is to have a powerful street car/daily driver that I could occasionally take to the track later down the road (once I have a better DD). My budget as it stands right now is about $2,500-3,000. That's for parts and labor, as I am nowhere near skilled enough to attempt these mods myself.

You guys definitely persuaded me to drop the money on shocks as well as springs, I'd like the car to handle a bit better, as I prefer the twisty roads quite a bit. Any particular brands I should look for in terms of shocks/springs, other that what was already listed?

Finally, the cam mod was something that entered my thinking just a little while ago. As my signature states, I've got long tubes with a cat back, and from reading some other threads, the cam seemed the next step to take (at least from how I understood it). However, as you stated, I realized that there were probably a multitude of supporting upgrades that needed to take place to make the most of the cam. That's the main reason I wanted to get everyone's advice on it. Any other suggestions based on what I've given you here?

macattack0821

I do need new tires, I traded down to 235's all the way around simply because I wanted new rims, and wow was that a mistake. Car just doesn't look right with those tiny tires on it.

As for the stall converter, I think I understand the concept behind it, but how exactly will it help me? (Excuse my noobness)

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

get you a 4000 yank stall and some MT drag radials. transmission cooler with a larger transmission pan also. that will wake your car up a lot.

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

Keeps you in your power band. But will hurt your mpg for sure. If you do a stall might as well rebuild your trans to go with it. So there goes your budget lol

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

Listen to this guy

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

Stock cars have anywhere from 1,000 to 1,400 RPM stalls from the factory. The reason a stall converter works is simple; an engine at 1,200 RPM is only making about 80 or so horsepower (on average), but at 2,500 RPM it could be making 150 to 200HP, and obviously trying to get a car moving using 150-200HP is going to be much easier than one trying to launch at 80HP or so. Most performance engines don't make power until 3,000 or so RPM, hence why when you have a higher horsepower engine with a big cam, you need a higher stall speed so the engine is closer to it's "power band" when taking-off from the line, otherwise it will fall on its face and be a turd off the line.

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

he doesn't actually need a rebuild just because a stall. plenty of people run stalls on stock transmissions.
but if you got the coin you mine as well have a reputable shop rebuild it since you got to pull it for the stall anyway.

if you don't rebuild the transmission I would have it freshened up, new fluid with filter and bigger pan because the stall increases transmission heat and the bigger pan will help cool it along with a transmission cooler.

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

Preach mike!

I have a 3600 stall and my cam makes good power at 3500+rpms this allows me to stay in my power band easier.

Get a trans cooler, which should be the first upgrade. Unless you wanna do what i did and spend thousands of dollars to fix my trans a few times.

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

1. I agree and disagree at the same time. First you know more than i do obviously and you have helped me with my trans issues. How ever if he plans on adding more power down the road and has a max of 3500 to blow might as well get it knocked out of the way. Well thats how i look at it.

2. I still need a bigger trans cooler

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

Im disagreeing respectfully mike lol or what ever you wanna call it