Overall review on a 98-02 z28 camaro?
09-08-2015, 12:24 PM
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Overall review on a 98-02 z28 camaro? Hi everyone, im new here. And looking to get a z28. But I've been hearing a few bad things about the ls1 recently that has me concerned. Is there any major problems to look for ? And are they still reliable after 12-17years ? Thanks guys (:
09-08-2015, 02:05 PM
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Reliability will depend on the example you choose; at this age not every car has been cared for properly. Most cars of this age will need some sort of repair or maintenance either at purchase or shortly thereafter. All cars have their issues and age makes this worse, so the only way to [mostly] avoid this is to stick with new cars.
Not sure what sort of "bad" things you're referring to. LS1s in general are very reliable engines; there are countless examples in service if you count the truck variants as well.
You might find this link helpful, I posted a comprehensive review of these cars from my perspective as a 16+ year owner of multiple examples that spanned several model years:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/chevrolet...s-pleases.html
Not sure what sort of "bad" things you're referring to. LS1s in general are very reliable engines; there are countless examples in service if you count the truck variants as well.
You might find this link helpful, I posted a comprehensive review of these cars from my perspective as a 16+ year owner of multiple examples that spanned several model years:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/chevrolet...s-pleases.html
09-08-2015, 02:51 PM
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Thank you very much ! I've always liked camaros. Chevy in general. So Ill probably look into getting one in the near future. I just wanna beat my friends 05 GT mustang cuz he talks all this crap. Like all mustang owners. Lol
09-08-2015, 07:37 PM
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Haha. It's not. It's got some exhaust work done. A massive k&n intake on it. But other than that. It's stock. I keep telling him a z28 would def give him a run for his money. But he keeps telling me that the z28 is only putting out like 275hp to the wheels.
09-08-2015, 07:48 PM
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Also ! I didn't see this in the link you gave me. For aftermarket parts, how much is it compared to other cars ? My friend with the GT always brags that aftermarket parts for his car are so cheap.
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09-08-2015, 08:48 PM
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1995 camaro LT1 z28 vs 2008 mustang gt - YouTube
^^^ A cammed LT1 slaughtering a GT Mustang multiple times. lol
^^^ A cammed LT1 slaughtering a GT Mustang multiple times. lol
09-09-2015, 05:54 AM
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They were purposely underrated from the factory like most GM cars, all LS1's make roughly 350hp at the flywheel.
Guys have gave high 12s bone stock in these cars before.
Also parts will be even cheaper with these cars vs the 05+ mustangs, and you will make more power/money spent as well.
09-09-2015, 07:22 AM
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LS1 cars dyno around 300rwhp, some as high as 315-320rwhp bone stock (M6 for those numbers).
They were purposely underrated from the factory like most GM cars, all LS1's make roughly 350hp at the flywheel.
Guys have gave high 12s bone stock in these cars before.
Also parts will be even cheaper with these cars vs the 05+ mustangs, and you will make more power/money spent as well.
They were purposely underrated from the factory like most GM cars, all LS1's make roughly 350hp at the flywheel.
Guys have gave high 12s bone stock in these cars before.
Also parts will be even cheaper with these cars vs the 05+ mustangs, and you will make more power/money spent as well.
09-09-2015, 08:09 AM
#16
Overall review... they are now cheap enough that they are a performance bargain , I have bought 4 ls1 f bodies over the last 5 years each for between $2k-4k most with good bolt on mods in place , one ran 11.9 another 12.1 as bought...
Overall they aren't the greatest car fit and finish, interior quality etc.. , mechanical access is difficult compared to some other platforms I have owned but there are surely worse platforms to have to work on , engines are stout and simple- performance bang for the buck in my opinion makes up for the shortcomings if your buying one for a fun car to drag race and terrorize the streets with on occasion there are very few cars that can match what these cars do for the $$$ weakest link is the 10 bolt rear end behind a manual car , they hold up fine behind bolt on a4 cars and some are even holding up behind heads/cam type builds etc...
I don't think these cars are any more prone to engine issues than anything else you may consider of same age , miles , and use. When something does break your dealing with a compact , simple pushrod design with plentiful aftermarket options as well as many junkyard/ebay / CL options from 5.3 to 6.0 to ls2 , ls3 ,etc...
When these cars were engineered they did many things right in regards to drag racing , the engine is set way back under the cowl so you have less weight on the front , makes weight transfer better , this also puts the trans a bit further rearward than typical , same weight transfer benefit , they also made the block and cyl heads aluminum , intake plastic etc.. common theme weight off the front , fenders are plastic ,doors are fiberglass , again weight off the front. Torque arm suspension provides lift in the front similar to how ladder bars did back in muscle car days, stock car with a sticky tire will likely be enough to beat your buddys car if its only minor mods - sticky tires before mods...
Overall they aren't the greatest car fit and finish, interior quality etc.. , mechanical access is difficult compared to some other platforms I have owned but there are surely worse platforms to have to work on , engines are stout and simple- performance bang for the buck in my opinion makes up for the shortcomings if your buying one for a fun car to drag race and terrorize the streets with on occasion there are very few cars that can match what these cars do for the $$$ weakest link is the 10 bolt rear end behind a manual car , they hold up fine behind bolt on a4 cars and some are even holding up behind heads/cam type builds etc...
I don't think these cars are any more prone to engine issues than anything else you may consider of same age , miles , and use. When something does break your dealing with a compact , simple pushrod design with plentiful aftermarket options as well as many junkyard/ebay / CL options from 5.3 to 6.0 to ls2 , ls3 ,etc...
When these cars were engineered they did many things right in regards to drag racing , the engine is set way back under the cowl so you have less weight on the front , makes weight transfer better , this also puts the trans a bit further rearward than typical , same weight transfer benefit , they also made the block and cyl heads aluminum , intake plastic etc.. common theme weight off the front , fenders are plastic ,doors are fiberglass , again weight off the front. Torque arm suspension provides lift in the front similar to how ladder bars did back in muscle car days, stock car with a sticky tire will likely be enough to beat your buddys car if its only minor mods - sticky tires before mods...
Last edited by murphinator; 09-09-2015 at 08:15 AM.
09-09-2015, 08:59 AM
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Overall review... they are now cheap enough that they are a performance bargain , I have bought 4 ls1 f bodies over the last 5 years each for between $2k-4k most with good bolt on mods in place , one ran 11.9 another 12.1 as bought...
Overall they aren't the greatest car fit and finish, interior quality etc.. , mechanical access is difficult compared to some other platforms I have owned but there are surely worse platforms to have to work on , engines are stout and simple- performance bang for the buck in my opinion makes up for the shortcomings if your buying one for a fun car to drag race and terrorize the streets with on occasion there are very few cars that can match what these cars do for the $$$ weakest link is the 10 bolt rear end behind a manual car , they hold up fine behind bolt on a4 cars and some are even holding up behind heads/cam type builds etc...
I don't think these cars are any more prone to engine issues than anything else you may consider of same age , miles , and use. When something does break your dealing with a compact , simple pushrod design with plentiful aftermarket options as well as many junkyard/ebay / CL options from 5.3 to 6.0 to ls2 , ls3 ,etc...
When these cars were engineered they did many things right in regards to drag racing , the engine is set way back under the cowl so you have less weight on the front , makes weight transfer better , this also puts the trans a bit further rearward than typical , same weight transfer benefit , they also made the block and cyl heads aluminum , intake plastic etc.. common theme weight off the front , fenders are plastic ,doors are fiberglass , again weight off the front. Torque arm suspension provides lift in the front similar to how ladder bars did back in muscle car days, stock car with a sticky tire will likely be enough to beat your buddys car if its only minor mods - sticky tires before mods...
Overall they aren't the greatest car fit and finish, interior quality etc.. , mechanical access is difficult compared to some other platforms I have owned but there are surely worse platforms to have to work on , engines are stout and simple- performance bang for the buck in my opinion makes up for the shortcomings if your buying one for a fun car to drag race and terrorize the streets with on occasion there are very few cars that can match what these cars do for the $$$ weakest link is the 10 bolt rear end behind a manual car , they hold up fine behind bolt on a4 cars and some are even holding up behind heads/cam type builds etc...
I don't think these cars are any more prone to engine issues than anything else you may consider of same age , miles , and use. When something does break your dealing with a compact , simple pushrod design with plentiful aftermarket options as well as many junkyard/ebay / CL options from 5.3 to 6.0 to ls2 , ls3 ,etc...
When these cars were engineered they did many things right in regards to drag racing , the engine is set way back under the cowl so you have less weight on the front , makes weight transfer better , this also puts the trans a bit further rearward than typical , same weight transfer benefit , they also made the block and cyl heads aluminum , intake plastic etc.. common theme weight off the front , fenders are plastic ,doors are fiberglass , again weight off the front. Torque arm suspension provides lift in the front similar to how ladder bars did back in muscle car days, stock car with a sticky tire will likely be enough to beat your buddys car if its only minor mods - sticky tires before mods...
Also,I've heard about the rear end being a problem. What really goes wrong with it ?
09-09-2015, 09:55 AM
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I wouldn't want anything with rear end problems. And im not gunna beat the heck out of it. But when I do wanna race occasionally. I don't wanna be worried about the rear end snapping if I get a m6.
09-09-2015, 02:48 PM
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Overall review... they are now cheap enough that they are a performance bargain , I have bought 4 ls1 f bodies over the last 5 years each for between $2k-4k most with good bolt on mods in place , one ran 11.9 another 12.1 as bought...
Overall they aren't the greatest car fit and finish, interior quality etc.. , mechanical access is difficult compared to some other platforms I have owned but there are surely worse platforms to have to work on , engines are stout and simple- performance bang for the buck in my opinion makes up for the shortcomings if your buying one for a fun car to drag race and terrorize the streets with on occasion there are very few cars that can match what these cars do for the $$$ weakest link is the 10 bolt rear end behind a manual car , they hold up fine behind bolt on a4 cars and some are even holding up behind heads/cam type builds etc...
I don't think these cars are any more prone to engine issues than anything else you may consider of same age , miles , and use. When something does break your dealing with a compact , simple pushrod design with plentiful aftermarket options as well as many junkyard/ebay / CL options from 5.3 to 6.0 to ls2 , ls3 ,etc...
When these cars were engineered they did many things right in regards to drag racing , the engine is set way back under the cowl so you have less weight on the front , makes weight transfer better , this also puts the trans a bit further rearward than typical , same weight transfer benefit , they also made the block and cyl heads aluminum , intake plastic etc.. common theme weight off the front , fenders are plastic ,doors are fiberglass , again weight off the front. Torque arm suspension provides lift in the front similar to how ladder bars did back in muscle car days, stock car with a sticky tire will likely be enough to beat your buddys car if its only minor mods - sticky tires before mods...
Overall they aren't the greatest car fit and finish, interior quality etc.. , mechanical access is difficult compared to some other platforms I have owned but there are surely worse platforms to have to work on , engines are stout and simple- performance bang for the buck in my opinion makes up for the shortcomings if your buying one for a fun car to drag race and terrorize the streets with on occasion there are very few cars that can match what these cars do for the $$$ weakest link is the 10 bolt rear end behind a manual car , they hold up fine behind bolt on a4 cars and some are even holding up behind heads/cam type builds etc...
I don't think these cars are any more prone to engine issues than anything else you may consider of same age , miles , and use. When something does break your dealing with a compact , simple pushrod design with plentiful aftermarket options as well as many junkyard/ebay / CL options from 5.3 to 6.0 to ls2 , ls3 ,etc...
When these cars were engineered they did many things right in regards to drag racing , the engine is set way back under the cowl so you have less weight on the front , makes weight transfer better , this also puts the trans a bit further rearward than typical , same weight transfer benefit , they also made the block and cyl heads aluminum , intake plastic etc.. common theme weight off the front , fenders are plastic ,doors are fiberglass , again weight off the front. Torque arm suspension provides lift in the front similar to how ladder bars did back in muscle car days, stock car with a sticky tire will likely be enough to beat your buddys car if its only minor mods - sticky tires before mods...
On the other hand, the auto cars can often handle 1.6, 1.5 and sometimes even quicker 60-foots on the stock rear.
09-09-2015, 06:35 PM
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An excellent post that I agree with, other than the bolded area. Their fit & finish is on par with other cars of their class & era at their original MSRP. When buying used, cheap examples with lots of miles, the weak spots become more apparent. It wouldn't really make sense to compare them to a modern car IMO since much of their design and build/assembly techniques come from two decades ago.
Prices can vary quite a bit depending on region, but $2-4k will get you junk in my region. Personally, I'd rather not buy junk because the hassles and cost to fix it up will likely be as much or more than just getting a nice one to start with. In my region, $6-8k is basically the entry range for a nice LS1 4th gen, and $10k+ for a premium one. I am within walking distance of Chicago though, so everything here is expensive and the winters have destroyed most high mileage ~15 year old cars.
Then I would suggest to either NOT get an M6 or, at the very least, don't ever put super sticky tires on it. The M6 cars have been known to break the rear even at stock power levels, when launched or shifted hard on a 1-2 with very sticky tires and a good clutch. The M6 will mostly be fine with normal street tires since wheel spin will alleviate much of the stress.
On the other hand, the auto cars can often handle 1.6, 1.5 and sometimes even quicker 60-foots on the stock rear.
Prices can vary quite a bit depending on region, but $2-4k will get you junk in my region. Personally, I'd rather not buy junk because the hassles and cost to fix it up will likely be as much or more than just getting a nice one to start with. In my region, $6-8k is basically the entry range for a nice LS1 4th gen, and $10k+ for a premium one. I am within walking distance of Chicago though, so everything here is expensive and the winters have destroyed most high mileage ~15 year old cars.
Then I would suggest to either NOT get an M6 or, at the very least, don't ever put super sticky tires on it. The M6 cars have been known to break the rear even at stock power levels, when launched or shifted hard on a 1-2 with very sticky tires and a good clutch. The M6 will mostly be fine with normal street tires since wheel spin will alleviate much of the stress.
On the other hand, the auto cars can often handle 1.6, 1.5 and sometimes even quicker 60-foots on the stock rear.