What to watch when buying 98-02 T/A
06-15-2004, 07:19 PM
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What to watch when buying 98-02 T/A Just what the title says, sorry about me notbeing able to find anything with the search button, maybe there is really nothing to watch out for. Well anyways, the places or dealerships i was looking to get the new car i dont really trust that they covered the car enough to find the common problems, so a quick list would really help me in what i need to look for.
Ive heard good things about the LS1 being able to take 75k miles with out hardly anythign more than tune ups. any help is greatly appreciated.
Ive heard good things about the LS1 being able to take 75k miles with out hardly anythign more than tune ups. any help is greatly appreciated.
Last edited by MaxxMitchell; 06-16-2004 at 08:23 PM.
06-15-2004, 08:31 PM
#2
Some places to look are:
*weatherstrippping around the door; it can shrink with age, and leak
*door hinges aren't the best, so look to see if the doors open smoothly
and don't sag.
*look to see if the door glass wobbles indicating worn window components
*check the radiator for sludge build up from the Dex Cool antifreeze; also check the overflow reservoir dipstick. If you find brown sludge, you might be able to negotiate down.
*look for sagging headliners at the top of the windshield, where it meets the head liner
*look for front rocker panel damage and panel misalignment caused by improper jacking procedures; also check subframe and floor pan area for damage from a misplaced jack.
*look for moisture in the turn signals, headlamps, and side marker lights
*look at the front air dam for contact damage. This would be a possible indicator of other damage from low contact
*check center console arm rest for excessive wear and wobble
*look for loose shield in the passenger side area under the dash. It has a tendency to hang down, and may mean there's been electrical work, or problems with the heater core.
*weatherstrippping around the door; it can shrink with age, and leak
*door hinges aren't the best, so look to see if the doors open smoothly
and don't sag.
*look to see if the door glass wobbles indicating worn window components
*check the radiator for sludge build up from the Dex Cool antifreeze; also check the overflow reservoir dipstick. If you find brown sludge, you might be able to negotiate down.
*look for sagging headliners at the top of the windshield, where it meets the head liner
*look for front rocker panel damage and panel misalignment caused by improper jacking procedures; also check subframe and floor pan area for damage from a misplaced jack.
*look for moisture in the turn signals, headlamps, and side marker lights
*look at the front air dam for contact damage. This would be a possible indicator of other damage from low contact
*check center console arm rest for excessive wear and wobble
*look for loose shield in the passenger side area under the dash. It has a tendency to hang down, and may mean there's been electrical work, or problems with the heater core.
06-15-2004, 09:56 PM
#3
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Good post sawedoff.
Let me try to add to that...
1. Check the oil to see if it's filthy dirty or if it's clean. Possible sign of an abused car.
2. Take a quick look at the throttle body to see if the bump stop has been ground down (just a sign to tell you the previous owner probably modded the car)
3. Open the area where the spare tire is kept and check for drill holes (nitrous install)
4. Check the power windows. (Driver's side fails often)
5. Check the hood and front end for correct body panel alignment (possible front end collision)
6. Check tire wear to make sure you're not getting some old POS tires.
7. If it is an SS, get the VIN and check to see if it's really an SS
Let me try to add to that...
1. Check the oil to see if it's filthy dirty or if it's clean. Possible sign of an abused car.
2. Take a quick look at the throttle body to see if the bump stop has been ground down (just a sign to tell you the previous owner probably modded the car)
3. Open the area where the spare tire is kept and check for drill holes (nitrous install)
4. Check the power windows. (Driver's side fails often)
5. Check the hood and front end for correct body panel alignment (possible front end collision)
6. Check tire wear to make sure you're not getting some old POS tires.
7. If it is an SS, get the VIN and check to see if it's really an SS
06-16-2004, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by sawedoff
Some places to look are:
*weatherstrippping around the door; it can shrink with age, and leak
*door hinges aren't the best, so look to see if the doors open smoothly
and don't sag.
*look to see if the door glass wobbles indicating worn window components
*check the radiator for sludge build up from the Dex Cool antifreeze; also check the overflow reservoir dipstick. If you find brown sludge, you might be able to negotiate down.
*look for sagging headliners at the top of the windshield, where it meets the head liner
*look for front rocker panel damage and panel misalignment caused by improper jacking procedures; also check subframe and floor pan area for damage from a misplaced jack.
*look for moisture in the turn signals, headlamps, and side marker lights
*look at the front air dam for contact damage. This would be a possible indicator of other damage from low contact
*check center console arm rest for excessive wear and wobble
*look for loose shield in the passenger side area under the dash. It has a tendency to hang down, and may mean there's been electrical work, or problems with the heater core.
*weatherstrippping around the door; it can shrink with age, and leak
*door hinges aren't the best, so look to see if the doors open smoothly
and don't sag.
*look to see if the door glass wobbles indicating worn window components
*check the radiator for sludge build up from the Dex Cool antifreeze; also check the overflow reservoir dipstick. If you find brown sludge, you might be able to negotiate down.
*look for sagging headliners at the top of the windshield, where it meets the head liner
*look for front rocker panel damage and panel misalignment caused by improper jacking procedures; also check subframe and floor pan area for damage from a misplaced jack.
*look for moisture in the turn signals, headlamps, and side marker lights
*look at the front air dam for contact damage. This would be a possible indicator of other damage from low contact
*check center console arm rest for excessive wear and wobble
*look for loose shield in the passenger side area under the dash. It has a tendency to hang down, and may mean there's been electrical work, or problems with the heater core.
06-16-2004, 05:33 PM
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Check the Rear Fenders, looking from the top of the deck down to the gap between the tailights and the hatch/deck/trunk/whatever to see if a fender has been replaced....
I almost bought a 11k 02 SOM T/A till I looked there and saw finger prints from the glue or sealant/whtever from a bodyshop replacing the fender... and it wasn't on the carfax.
I saw 2 others with jacked-*** right rear fenders.
Check the entire front clip out for cracks etc, look by the foglight holes, and the side markers, cracks show there pretty well. Look at the edge of the door, look for cracks there (previous owner opening the door and hitting something... wall/car/etc, it will crack the paint at the least.)
Look at all the exhaust bolts, especially the ypipe to catback, also the manifold bolts. There should be a white dot on the top of them.
Check the hatch release, sometimes it doesnt pop with just one push of the button (inside the car) or 2 times from the keyfob..)
If its a 6spd put it in 6th around 45 or so and nail the throttle, and hope the rpms dont climb faster than the speedo (should take it forever to get moving) If it climbs quick the clutch is shot... (read this here... do a search for other ways to find out about the clutch)
Look in the rear fenderwells for rubber build up. behind the tires aswell, there are several places rubber will be that can be easily hit with the pressure washer or from just basic once overs.
Make sure the headlights pop up and down nicely aswell.
Also take a nice towel and some quick detailer or water and wipe the car down (unless it just came from the detail bay) dust will always hide things you wish you would have known.
I almost bought a 11k 02 SOM T/A till I looked there and saw finger prints from the glue or sealant/whtever from a bodyshop replacing the fender... and it wasn't on the carfax.
I saw 2 others with jacked-*** right rear fenders.
Check the entire front clip out for cracks etc, look by the foglight holes, and the side markers, cracks show there pretty well. Look at the edge of the door, look for cracks there (previous owner opening the door and hitting something... wall/car/etc, it will crack the paint at the least.)
Look at all the exhaust bolts, especially the ypipe to catback, also the manifold bolts. There should be a white dot on the top of them.
Check the hatch release, sometimes it doesnt pop with just one push of the button (inside the car) or 2 times from the keyfob..)
If its a 6spd put it in 6th around 45 or so and nail the throttle, and hope the rpms dont climb faster than the speedo (should take it forever to get moving) If it climbs quick the clutch is shot... (read this here... do a search for other ways to find out about the clutch)
Look in the rear fenderwells for rubber build up. behind the tires aswell, there are several places rubber will be that can be easily hit with the pressure washer or from just basic once overs.
Make sure the headlights pop up and down nicely aswell.
Also take a nice towel and some quick detailer or water and wipe the car down (unless it just came from the detail bay) dust will always hide things you wish you would have known.
06-16-2004, 08:21 PM
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Well Thanks alot guys, i really feel more preped to go looking again, and hope i can find one that does not have body damage, and still with in my price range.
As longevity goes, if the car was driven hard, but was kept up on maitinance, what do u think that would shorten the LS1s life span to? Or is that motor that hard to kill that 150,000 is easy to get out of it with the basic work kept up on it.
As longevity goes, if the car was driven hard, but was kept up on maitinance, what do u think that would shorten the LS1s life span to? Or is that motor that hard to kill that 150,000 is easy to get out of it with the basic work kept up on it.
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06-16-2004, 10:39 PM
#9
Originally Posted by MaxxMitchell
As longevity goes, if the car was driven hard, but was kept up on maitinance, what do u think that would shorten the LS1s life span to? Or is that motor that hard to kill that 150,000 is easy to get out of it with the basic work kept up on it.
