Opinions and/or Projections?
06-20-2004, 12:25 AM
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Opinions and/or Projections? Hey everyone, just wanted to list my new plan for my car. Any opinions and or projections (gas mileage, hp/tq or ETs) would be appreciated. My car just hit over 367xx miles. I'll probably have the funds available to buy everything before Thanksgiving, some I have already, some still need to order:
MTI CF Lid
Pace Z06 MAF calibrated for F-body
Ported TB (Bauer, Shane, or Jantzer)
QTP 1 3/4 Race Headers with Dual Electric Y-pipe (removing AIR)
SSRA I or II
GMMG (I've got one now, but I want a new one for when I do all of this)
TCI 3500
TransGO shiftkit
B&M Trans Cooler
4 18x9.5 Black Z06 Motorsports w/ 275/35/18 F1 GS-D3s
ASP Overdrive Pulley, bolt, belts
SLP Fan switch w/ 160 Thermostat
BMR Tubular SFC
BMR STB
BMR Xtreme Torque Arm w/ DS Loop
1LE Suspension (maybe)
4.10 standard gears (maybe)
HP Tuners
I guess my one real big question is will my rear end break with these upgrades? It's still somewhat my daily driver, and I still have yet to even see a track. The other question would be: What do you think? Am I going in the right direction?
MTI CF Lid
Pace Z06 MAF calibrated for F-body
Ported TB (Bauer, Shane, or Jantzer)
QTP 1 3/4 Race Headers with Dual Electric Y-pipe (removing AIR)
SSRA I or II
GMMG (I've got one now, but I want a new one for when I do all of this)
TCI 3500
TransGO shiftkit
B&M Trans Cooler
4 18x9.5 Black Z06 Motorsports w/ 275/35/18 F1 GS-D3s
ASP Overdrive Pulley, bolt, belts
SLP Fan switch w/ 160 Thermostat
BMR Tubular SFC
BMR STB
BMR Xtreme Torque Arm w/ DS Loop
1LE Suspension (maybe)
4.10 standard gears (maybe)
HP Tuners
I guess my one real big question is will my rear end break with these upgrades? It's still somewhat my daily driver, and I still have yet to even see a track. The other question would be: What do you think? Am I going in the right direction?
Last edited by FenixSS; 06-25-2004 at 12:12 PM.
06-21-2004, 12:32 PM
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If you are going to buy a HP tuner, like a diablo, or a hypertech, you dont really need to get the manual fan switches, cause using the tuner you can set the fans to come on whenever you want. I say around 170-180.
Nice set up.
Oh if you want to catch a pretty good price on that 1LE suspension, go to gmpartsdirect.com and go to the upgrades section
Atleast I think its a good price, maybe not
Nice set up.
Oh if you want to catch a pretty good price on that 1LE suspension, go to gmpartsdirect.com and go to the upgrades section
Atleast I think its a good price, maybe not
06-21-2004, 12:38 PM
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What about the maf, since i have been reading on here everyone seems to think that money could be spent on a better mod considering the stock one is good for a lot of hp. Im not sure about this but if hes not going w/ heads and cam does he need a new maf? If your going to keep it a daily driver been an A4 i might think about 3.73s or less b/c with that stall you wont be able to tell much difference in performance but u will kill gas milage.
06-21-2004, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by natronathon
If you are going to buy a HP tuner, like a diablo, or a hypertech, you dont really need to get the manual fan switches, cause using the tuner you can set the fans to come on whenever you want. I say around 170-180.
Originally Posted by natronathon
Oh if you want to catch a pretty good price on that 1LE suspension, go to gmpartsdirect.com and go to the upgrades section
Atleast I think its a good price, maybe not
Atleast I think its a good price, maybe not
In regards to your question, the 1LE upgrade kit Is a "full" package, Koni shocks, Progressive Springs, 35mm front sway-bar, 21mm rear sway-bar re-enforced panhard bar, endlinks, brackets and lower control arms part number 10589 $1,995.95 plus S/H. As far as will this lower your car, this was designed for handling purposes only, but it will lower a car about 3/4" and Installation, should be handled by a qualified Mechanic or shop.
I was thinking of replacing the Konis and Progressive Springs with Bilsteins and some other spring that won't lower my car, any suggestions?
06-21-2004, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Tiger2o69
What about the maf, since i have been reading on here everyone seems to think that money could be spent on a better mod considering the stock one is good for a lot of hp. Im not sure about this but if hes not going w/ heads and cam does he need a new maf? If your going to keep it a daily driver been an A4 i might think about 3.73s or less b/c with that stall you wont be able to tell much difference in performance but u will kill gas milage.
Yea, I'll strike on the gears, and probably just descreen the MAF. The money I'll save from those I guess will go to cam/heads down the road, but I was told that the life of the engine dramatically decreases when you start messing with cam/heads and I really need this car to last me probably till oh maybe forever. Any opinions? Trending Topics
06-25-2004, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by sunsetz28
You might want to take a look at the March underdrive pulleys. They are 25% underdrive like the ASPs, but they are fluid dampened. Just a thought.
Seriously, because I'm gonna have more accessories running and drawing power, Overdrive Pulley is where Im gonna have to go, unless I've understood and learned the differance between under and over drive?
06-29-2004, 09:19 AM
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Oh I thought you were looking for performance
. In that case you would need to over drive your alternator I guess. All you need then is a pulley for the alternator I think. I don't know all that much about stereo stuff though. I just know enough about stuff to get me into trouble.
. In that case you would need to over drive your alternator I guess. All you need then is a pulley for the alternator I think. I don't know all that much about stereo stuff though. I just know enough about stuff to get me into trouble.
06-29-2004, 01:27 PM
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I added my comments next to your listed items with more at the bottom.
Originally Posted by FenixSS
MTI CF Lid - good mod (+hp -mpg + noise)
Pace Z06 MAF calibrated for F-body - save $ you dont need it
Ported TB (Bauer, Shane, or Jantzer) - save $ you wont need it
QTP 1 3/4 Race Headers with Dual Electric Y-pipe (removing AIR) -
GMMG (I've got one now, but I want a new one for when I do all of this) - why spend more $ that makes no sense not even for wealthy people. Adding the cutouts on the Y makes even less sense if you are getting a new cat.. Just get the cutouts or the exhaust (which you already have) and dont worry abut it. (+hp +noise -mpg)
SSRA I or II (+hp? -mpg)
TCI 3500 - good mod for an auto. I would suggest getting a 2800-3200 stall. 3500 seemss to be a little much for your mods.
TransGO shiftkit - if you get a shift kit, do not mess with shift firmness on a handheld programmer.. Decent mod. I liked mine but I killed 6 trannys in 3 years.
B&M Trans Cooler - good idea! I used the B&M supercooler
4 18x9.5 Black Z06 Motorsports w/ 275/35/18 F1 GS-D3s - expensive wheels and tires.. not my choice for performance but you may enjoy.. or you may be that much more pissed when you curb check them.
ASP Overdrive Pulley, bolt, belts - you may want to look into a higher output alternator as well. I am not sure but I think the B4C cars got them.
SLP Fan switch w/ 160 Thermostat - (no need for this really)
BMR Tubular SFC - good mod (+handling -plushness)
BMR STB - good mod (+handling -plushness)
BMR Xtreme Torque Arm w/ DS Loop - good mod (+traction)
1LE Suspension (maybe) - too expensive IMO.
4.10 standard gears (maybe) - 3.73's are a better all around gear.. Decent highway and better acceleration.
HP Tuners - sure.
I guess my one real big question is will my rear end break with these upgrades? - no real power adder so I dont see the rear breaking. Also the power you gained will be minimized by the larger wheels and tires..
It's still somewhat my daily driver, and I still have yet to even see a track. - I think you need to get to the track first before any mods and learn to drive the car.
The other question would be: What do you think? Am I going in the right direction? - Personally I think you are a little confused. You seem to want a drag/scca car. You want handling but also to hook and go forward. I suggest before you do any mods, you get to both types of tracks and try it out.. Drag racing is fun. SCCA is fun. Some fine one more fun that the other. While its not impossible its just not in your cars best interest that you do SCCA.. Auto's arent the best for running on a solo II track. Auto's do very well on a drag strip though so that may be the direction you want to go.
I also noticed you are basically wanting to make the car heavier with electronics/stereo. That pretty much kills alot of your power gains and will just keep the car at about the same level its at.
Your power mods are minimal and the suspension mods will will cause the car to move much more harshly.
Like I said.. Try taking the car to the track. Learn to drive it and then decide if you want to go for performance or what not. While your car is an auto it still will take a little bit of learning for your car to get the most out of it. You may find that flashing your stock TC will net ya a faster time than stalling it up. You may find that going to the track with a full tank gets ya better times than going with 1/4 tank. Lots of variables to learn and experiment with. All part of enjoying your car.
Good Luck!
Pace Z06 MAF calibrated for F-body - save $ you dont need it
Ported TB (Bauer, Shane, or Jantzer) - save $ you wont need it
QTP 1 3/4 Race Headers with Dual Electric Y-pipe (removing AIR) -
GMMG (I've got one now, but I want a new one for when I do all of this) - why spend more $ that makes no sense not even for wealthy people. Adding the cutouts on the Y makes even less sense if you are getting a new cat.. Just get the cutouts or the exhaust (which you already have) and dont worry abut it. (+hp +noise -mpg)
SSRA I or II (+hp? -mpg)
TCI 3500 - good mod for an auto. I would suggest getting a 2800-3200 stall. 3500 seemss to be a little much for your mods.
TransGO shiftkit - if you get a shift kit, do not mess with shift firmness on a handheld programmer.. Decent mod. I liked mine but I killed 6 trannys in 3 years.
B&M Trans Cooler - good idea! I used the B&M supercooler
4 18x9.5 Black Z06 Motorsports w/ 275/35/18 F1 GS-D3s - expensive wheels and tires.. not my choice for performance but you may enjoy.. or you may be that much more pissed when you curb check them.
ASP Overdrive Pulley, bolt, belts - you may want to look into a higher output alternator as well. I am not sure but I think the B4C cars got them.
SLP Fan switch w/ 160 Thermostat - (no need for this really)
BMR Tubular SFC - good mod (+handling -plushness)
BMR STB - good mod (+handling -plushness)
BMR Xtreme Torque Arm w/ DS Loop - good mod (+traction)
1LE Suspension (maybe) - too expensive IMO.
4.10 standard gears (maybe) - 3.73's are a better all around gear.. Decent highway and better acceleration.
HP Tuners - sure.
I guess my one real big question is will my rear end break with these upgrades? - no real power adder so I dont see the rear breaking. Also the power you gained will be minimized by the larger wheels and tires..
It's still somewhat my daily driver, and I still have yet to even see a track. - I think you need to get to the track first before any mods and learn to drive the car.
The other question would be: What do you think? Am I going in the right direction? - Personally I think you are a little confused. You seem to want a drag/scca car. You want handling but also to hook and go forward. I suggest before you do any mods, you get to both types of tracks and try it out.. Drag racing is fun. SCCA is fun. Some fine one more fun that the other. While its not impossible its just not in your cars best interest that you do SCCA.. Auto's arent the best for running on a solo II track. Auto's do very well on a drag strip though so that may be the direction you want to go.
I also noticed you are basically wanting to make the car heavier with electronics/stereo. That pretty much kills alot of your power gains and will just keep the car at about the same level its at.
Your power mods are minimal and the suspension mods will will cause the car to move much more harshly.
Like I said.. Try taking the car to the track. Learn to drive it and then decide if you want to go for performance or what not. While your car is an auto it still will take a little bit of learning for your car to get the most out of it. You may find that flashing your stock TC will net ya a faster time than stalling it up. You may find that going to the track with a full tank gets ya better times than going with 1/4 tank. Lots of variables to learn and experiment with. All part of enjoying your car.
Good Luck!
06-29-2004, 01:40 PM
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Check out the Summer 2004 issue of Camaro Performers. On page 41 they have a great list of LS1 DOs and DONTs. One of them is to leave the MAF and TB alone.
Stock MAF - Good to 500 hp
Stock TB - Good to almost 600 hp
Spend the money else where. Like a cam.
Stock MAF - Good to 500 hp
Stock TB - Good to almost 600 hp
Spend the money else where. Like a cam.
06-29-2004, 03:05 PM
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Guys with M6s benefit most from 4.10 gears. Doing that will hurt your gas mileage and your top speed, but help acceleration. On stock 16" wheels & tires, your top speed will be about 160 in 4th gear and 110 in 3rd gear (where you do 1/4 mile runs at). That would be fine with the mods you've listed, but wouldn't leave you much room for improvement later on.
You picked a good MAF, but I agree that the MAF and TB arn't your top priorities. Spend that money on something else like a cam for best results and get the MAF and TB later.
You picked a good MAF, but I agree that the MAF and TB arn't your top priorities. Spend that money on something else like a cam for best results and get the MAF and TB later.