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New, trans am lq9 swap/ maybe t56 swap?

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Old 03-01-2017, 02:14 AM   #1
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Default New, trans am lq9 swap/ maybe t56 swap?

So I have a 2000 transam it's been broken for some time. "Yearsss" I think I have atleast 90% of everything to the original car. Idk if I have all the bolts but I've a good few hand fulls.

The car supposedly has a Walbro255 racetronix fp brand new in the tank.
I think there is still gas in it. Should I get a new pump, I'm not sure how long they can set for?

The transmission was covered but not sealed off.
Lines look like bugs made a nest in the end of them. Idk if I should try it or just go with a t56 swap?
If you think the 4l60e is still good will the flex plate work that is on the lq9
And if I should swap, what all would I need to finish this task?

I already have a lq9 from a 03 escalade it has 80k on it
I want to get long tube headers and ory, would you recommend the right size header and brand I might go with. The car already has a MagnaFlow cat back single in dual out currently. Also is there anything specific I need for the lq9 to work?
Like sensors, which wiring harness should I use. Will the crank pulley and water pump on the lq9 work?

The car has a egr delete and the computer has the egr turned out. I'm not sure how to set up the pcv lines. I want to add a catch can to the system.

Future plans for the car
Cam
Ported ls2 intake
Ls7 maf
Currently has slp lid not sure if I need to change it to some that will fit the 4" or
102mm holley sniper efi tb
Truck coil upgrade, I didn't luck out with the good ones
Mail order tune most likely my best option I think. Any good recommendations?
Spark plugs best brand ?

Probably leave it some where around that for awhile. I'm kinda of in a hurry to get the car running any of these things I should do before putting the car together? Mabye just the cam for now?
The engine has a 6 months warrenty begin the reason so I need to be able to make sure it's running properly before then.

Sorry if that was hard to read, thank you for any help or suggestions. I found some info on here but seem to not be able to find some of this info.

Last edited by KingColt; 03-01-2017 at 02:26 AM.
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Old 03-01-2017, 08:14 AM   #2
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If your able I would drop the tank, drain the gas, replace the sock and run fuel through it all the way up to the fuel rails, but disconnected and into a bucket till you got clean fuel, replace fuel filter and you should be good to go on the fuel side of things.

As far as the transmission, you need to purge the lines, and might as well replace filter and fluid, add a big cooler.

For your lq9, are you just going to slap it in there and go other then adding headers? TSP and Speed Engineering are both sponsors with good Stainless headers in various sizes for a great price. Go with at least 1 7/8". I'm not sure if the lq9 accessories will work for you in the f body. Do some research, there is plenty of great information here. Gen III external section and search.

The PCV system with the ls6 valley pan will make a huge difference and many N/A builds don't bother with running a catch can, but it's good insurance.

I would look at TSP for cam options including supporting mods like springs, pushrods, lifters. What heads are you going to run? the 317 that are probably on you lq9 aren't ideal for N/A build. I would put this in the motor before installing so you don't have to worry about it later.

What parts do you have from your old engine that was in the car?

Lastly what is your budget like?
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Old 03-01-2017, 01:45 PM   #3
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I have the complete engine, the wiring harness is attached to the car I have ac/ starter/alt all sensors the crank shafts pulley is broken , maf , slp lid. Intake, tb, radiator. Ac condenser. Small trans cooler. 02 Sims, egr parts, I think I pretty much have every part
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Old 03-01-2017, 01:47 PM   #4
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I want to put heads on it. I heard the l92 are the most affordable route?
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Old 03-01-2017, 02:24 PM   #5
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Yeah are cheap and flow really well. Are you going to run the ls3 intake or go carb?
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Old 03-01-2017, 05:06 PM   #6
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Dang didn't think about that those where ls3 heads. I don't want to carb it. Way down the road I would like to get a mag charger but that'll be a long time away unless I come across a deal I can't pass up.
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Old 03-01-2017, 05:17 PM   #7
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Dang didn't think about that those where ls3 heads. I don't want to carb it. Way down the road I would like to get a mag charger but that'll be a long time away unless I come across a deal I can't pass up.
Yep, that's what I run on my LQ4 (I commented on your other post) with a home ported LS3 intake and NW92 TB. Cam it right and those heads are BA. Since you are flat tops you should make more power than mine
See build thread on '98 in sig if your bored.
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Old 03-01-2017, 10:24 PM   #8
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mines a 6.0 still, ill check that out tho

think im going to go with that ls6 valley pan. so the oil just dump back in right there under the pan?

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Old 03-01-2017, 11:08 PM   #9
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just got done reading your write up. your build is pretty close to what im looking to do, did you say that you had your l92 heads ported or just the intake?

also im worried about how much the 4l60e can take, i saw that youve had to fix yours a few times. mine is stock and has been out side for a long time. would it be better to go t56? it probably wont get to a track that often just going to dd it.

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Old 03-02-2017, 06:44 AM   #10
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just got done reading your write up. your build is pretty close to what im looking to do, did you say that you had your l92 heads ported or just the intake?

also im worried about how much the 4l60e can take, i saw that youve had to fix yours a few times. mine is stock and has been out side for a long time. would it be better to go t56? it probably wont get to a track that often just going to dd it.
Yes, my L92 are ported, I bought them that way. Just sent to Brian Tooley to check the port work, mill for more compression and install the springs. Most on here will say stick to cathedral port heads for more low end torque for a DD. My 6.0 is more built for WOT and it has more of a "nitrous" cam.
A stock 4L60 (plus the lack of maintenance) might not last too long with the new found torque. I would at least have it freshened up or you could go for the t56 for more of a fun DD
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Old 03-02-2017, 07:10 AM   #11
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I blew up my stock 4l60 with 435rwhp, SS3200 Yank TC. I had it built by FLT here in IL to their Level 3 with a SS3600, it lived with nearly 700rwhp for 3 years. I had it rebuild by FLT again to there Level 7 this time with a PAS3400 TC same Hp level, might be swapping the pulley on the blower for more boost here once the weather stays nice.

I have thought about doing the swap to a 6 speed time and time again but still like the fact if the wife and I are out and having a good time I know she can drive it home.

Don't forget with the new found power no matter what transmission you decide on you'll need to address the rear end.
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Old 03-02-2017, 02:11 PM   #12
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so the l92/l97 combo isnt good for a dd?

i would like to get the car in the upper 400's, maybe around 500 hp DD
but a lot of that will be in the future

yeah the wife driving the car has come into mind a few times when thinking about going with the t56, but i think longevity of the car will out way this along with my hp goals could be in for a scary ride lol!
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:42 AM   #13
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How much power will the stock rear-end take?
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Old 03-03-2017, 06:47 AM   #14
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How much power will the stock rear-end take?
Well that's a depends question....t56 and sticky tires A4 and sticky tires, may last a little while then....
Some folks are running 9's on a 10 bolt. Other break em under stock power.
I'd say just start saving for a rear!
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Old 03-03-2017, 07:22 AM   #15
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Running around with 400hp through a 10 bolt shouldn't be extremely hard on it. But keep in mind just like with anything else you modify on the car, strengthen one area and the stress is transferred somewhere else. It's smart to start saving now for a rear.

From what I've read the l92/l97 will be fine for a daily driver. It comes down to tuning and making adjustments for the added air coming in with fuel and compensating for knock.

There's nothing saying you couldn't do the cam upgrade in the 6.0 and throw the intake and heads on from your ls1 that's broken and drive it like that for a while. You'll want to break that motor in anyways. While driving it you can continue to look for an optimal combo either new or looking through the classifieds section on here. There's tons of parts that are bought and sold through there. I've just done my 67th transaction.
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Old 03-03-2017, 09:04 AM   #16
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If you have a complete lq9 I would stick to your plans with a cam addition and intake upgrade, I chose to go the ls6 intake. You can definetly run the 317 heads if that is what you have already and they will be better for boost down the road if you go that direction. With a good cammed lq9 setup you should expect around 425-450 rwhp with supporting mods that would be a fun DD. If you want more power then put your money to better use and go turbo/supercharger and be prepared to upgrade other parts of the car like what you've already mentioned.
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Old 03-03-2017, 11:52 AM   #17
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400-450 will be a good starting spot for now.
There is a local shop here that dyno tunes, just not sure how good they are with ls1's. I know they can do mustangs.

Would it be better to get the car turned on a dyno? Or do you think a sponsor here can do a better mail order tune?

sticking with the 316's will be a better option after doing more research. I like the idea of maybe boost later on.

if i install a turbo cam now will the car drive strangely?

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Old 03-05-2017, 01:55 PM   #18
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Do I need to change the front and rear engine covers on the lq9 to the ls1?
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Old 03-05-2017, 04:56 PM   #19
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Do I need to change the front and rear engine covers on the lq9 to the ls1?
They are all the same....again everything is the same externally, Headers, heads, intake, covers, accessories, all will bolt right up. All you have to do is drill the block for the LS1 alternator location.
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:32 PM   #20
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Ok awesome thank you.
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