Hey guys looking for some input here to see if you can help point me in the right direction.
I picked up a 01 Formula A4 with 118k miles and the previous owner did some work on the engine but never had it tuned. Heres what i know it has setup wise:
original ls1 w 118k miles
automatic
stock headers
Ported MAF
799 heads (PO said he had gone through and port matched and polished the heads himself :/ )
LS6 Intake and gaskets
Melling HV/HP oil pump
Upgraded timing chaing and gears
200580 camshaft Specs as follows:

• 1997-2004 GM LS Series(Gen III)
• Lift: 0.560"/0.560"
• Duration @ 0.050": 216°/220°
• Advertised Duration: 285°/292°
• Lobe Separation: 114°
• RPM Range: 2,000-6,000 RPM

I don't have the cam card in front of me so im not 100% on those specs but i know the cam number is correct.
New 3.42 aubrey rears

Now the issue I'm having is it kind of feels like it may have a miss at idle. When I hook our Modis Edge up to it and look at my misfire data its showing random misfires on all cylinders and I'm unsure as to being un-tuned could be causing this? or just the cam is rough enough that the system is seeing it as a miss? What kind of idle lope if any should I expect I do show after it runs for a while b1s1,b1s2, b2s1 codes.
Also I'm unsure as to what plugs i should be running with this setup, it appears that oem range plugs are being used. That being said the car runs like a raped ape off idle. I fully intend to have the car dynotuned at kcmaxx as soon as I'm sure the car is running properly because I don't want them to have to chase issues that i can fix myself at my shop. SO a little guidance would be appreciated guys

 

Anyone?

 

Have you checked the knock sensors, they will pull timing causing random miss fires.

 

The cam is probably the reason for the misfire codes.
Also all 01 and 02 cars came with the LS6 intake stock, did he list that as a mod?
He put a cam in the car before upgrading the exhaust? So it still has the stock cast iron manifolds? If so you can pick up a BIG amount of power with LT headers and full exhaust.
Porting MAFs can lead to bad results from what Ive seen so watch out for that. That is something you can replace if the engine is still acting funny after the tune - you can see if the tuner has a stock one laying around to try out and see if there is a benefit.

 

Yes stock headers, now whan you say lt headers are you refering to lt1 headers?

 

Long tube headers.

 

There are always a few things your issue can be. I happen to agree with JD-AMG about the cam being the possible cause. Especially untuned. I'm not sure your diagnostic software or equipment has this feature but...A good way to see if misfires are false or real, is to monitor and datalog misfires on all 8 cylinders. You will almost always see some misfires on all cylinders, but the problem or offending cylinder with have a much higher number of misfires than the rest. This is the method I happen to use with HP Tuners.

 

Can you possibly take your ECU out of the car and mail it to Frost in Richmond VA and have it tuned he doee great mail order tunes, and possibly grab a set of long tube headers like they already said it will free up exhaust restrictions make you more power and heads, intake, cams, and exhaust all work well when they match. Try and get a tune on the car it will make a world of difference.

 

to my understanding frost only does tunes for bolt on mods

 

Anyone got a suggestion on plugs # and gap for this setup?

 

How much compression you run will have a big impact on plug choice. Higher the compression usually calls for a colder plug. Most opinions will be between NGK TR-55 and TR-6 (colder plug) .Sometimes a good rule to go by is...anything over 11:1, use the TR6. Some will also say if you are 100+ hp over stock, use the colder plug. I think you would be fine running a TR-6 gapped in the neighborhood of .040. Just my opinion and would like to hear others as well.