Wanting to do some type of mod to my car
03-14-2018, 01:04 PM
#41
Well, it won't make it sound louder and won't add more HP, but you are going to want to do this anyway when you can afford more HP. Or even before that. And it is right in your budget, with change.
Replace the stock rear lower control arms and panhard bar with a tubular set with grease able fittings and solid poly bushings. Really tightens the rear up. The stock LCAs are not grease able and have spaces where road sand gets in and eats up the bushings. That is why I did mine, the LCA bushings were shot and causing a mystery noise. This will plant your rear tires firmly on the ground for that someday horsepower or converter.
Shop BMR or UMI, they sell LCA and panhards as a set. I just did mine with UMI but the sets are very close in price. And I bought new bolts even though I didn't really need to, the old ones were fine. You don't need an adjustable panhard bar unless you are doing more rear end stuff.
About $300 total and about 3 hours for a 60 year old guy to do in between beers on Saturday. Instructions said 30 minutes but I don't think they included jacking up etc. And it is as simple as unbolting the old and installing the new. There are steps to follow but that is about it.
Then you are more ready for that extra HP when you can.
If you have already done these, I didn't see it in your sig.
Replace the stock rear lower control arms and panhard bar with a tubular set with grease able fittings and solid poly bushings. Really tightens the rear up. The stock LCAs are not grease able and have spaces where road sand gets in and eats up the bushings. That is why I did mine, the LCA bushings were shot and causing a mystery noise. This will plant your rear tires firmly on the ground for that someday horsepower or converter.
Shop BMR or UMI, they sell LCA and panhards as a set. I just did mine with UMI but the sets are very close in price. And I bought new bolts even though I didn't really need to, the old ones were fine. You don't need an adjustable panhard bar unless you are doing more rear end stuff.
About $300 total and about 3 hours for a 60 year old guy to do in between beers on Saturday. Instructions said 30 minutes but I don't think they included jacking up etc. And it is as simple as unbolting the old and installing the new. There are steps to follow but that is about it.
Then you are more ready for that extra HP when you can.
If you have already done these, I didn't see it in your sig.
03-14-2018, 05:00 PM
#43
You did not. The gas it would take would turn that $375 into roughly 410/415$ something which at that point I might as well pay a little more to avoid the trip all together and get a dyno tune in the process. But again thank you for the offer. I do appreciate it.
03-14-2018, 09:41 PM
#45
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Dyno #s are useless. go to track
03-15-2018, 01:22 PM
#46
Dyno #'s are not accurate, I wouldn't say useless. But as a tuning tool (baseline to final) they are a must IMO.
Mustang Dyno are heartbreakers. Others can be manipulated. MPH at the track will tell accurate HP.
Last edited by ragtopz28; 03-15-2018 at 01:28 PM.
03-15-2018, 01:45 PM
#47
Dyno tunes using a wide band is the best IMHO (how else are you going to know the A/F throughout the rpm range) and any tuner worth their salt will do a final "drivability tweak" after the dyno session.
Dyno #'s are not accurate, I wouldn't say useless. But as a tuning tool (baseline to final) they are a must IMO.
Mustang Dyno are heartbreakers. Others can be manipulated. MPH at the track will tell accurate HP.
Dyno #'s are not accurate, I wouldn't say useless. But as a tuning tool (baseline to final) they are a must IMO.
Mustang Dyno are heartbreakers. Others can be manipulated. MPH at the track will tell accurate HP.
03-16-2018, 10:45 PM
#55
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to reply to one of the posts above, I will say that yes a dyno tune can be sorta useful as far as gauging #s.. but I have seen #s not match track times.
Recently had a little fun with a mustang claiming he had 550rwhp(thats what his dyno sheet read). 3 times we raced and he could not keep up. I have like 420-430rwhp.
03-17-2018, 08:49 AM
#56
Yes, I agree. Both have their place, but I just had a horrible experience with a dyno tune. He didn't really focus on making it "streetable". Literally drove it around the block and sent me on my way. Had to pay another tuner who spent 6 hours correcting my tune(he did a street tune)
to reply to one of the posts above, I will say that yes a dyno tune can be sorta useful as far as gauging #s.. but I have seen #s not match track times.
Recently had a little fun with a mustang claiming he had 550rwhp(thats what his dyno sheet read). 3 times we raced and he could not keep up. I have like 420-430rwhp.
to reply to one of the posts above, I will say that yes a dyno tune can be sorta useful as far as gauging #s.. but I have seen #s not match track times.
Recently had a little fun with a mustang claiming he had 550rwhp(thats what his dyno sheet read). 3 times we raced and he could not keep up. I have like 420-430rwhp.
Dynos are great for documenting gains not HP.
I, like you, love whooping up on "higher HP cars" LOL!
03-17-2018, 10:23 PM
#57
the instructions when you buy a wideband tell you not to place the wideband sensor in a location of high temperature. For us folk with turbochargers which reach 1300*F~ near the turbo or engine is not an option. It should be placed a good distance from the engine or turbo... approx 3 feet or MORE. There is no max distance. A dyno wideband works for all the billions of cars from a tailpipe exit.
03-18-2018, 08:34 PM
#58
A good converter will wake it up more than anything.
Back in the early 2000's, i dropped 1/2 second ET using a TCI streetfighter in my ls1/4l60 car. The lockup clutch died soon after (junk), but that converter made the car very quick.
The 10.5" size "Cadillac" i think it is GM style converter that TCI used, and some others do also, it is one of the most efficient converters out there. No loss of top end power over the standard converter, but will give a nice hit off the line and higher shift extension.
Back in the early 2000's, i dropped 1/2 second ET using a TCI streetfighter in my ls1/4l60 car. The lockup clutch died soon after (junk), but that converter made the car very quick.
The 10.5" size "Cadillac" i think it is GM style converter that TCI used, and some others do also, it is one of the most efficient converters out there. No loss of top end power over the standard converter, but will give a nice hit off the line and higher shift extension.
03-20-2018, 08:17 PM
#59
TECH Regular
It is unfortunate you had a bad experience/tuner.
Dynos are great for documenting gains not HP.
I, like you, love whooping up on "higher HP cars" LOL!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CV7nnRefB4s
Dynos are great for documenting gains not HP.
I, like you, love whooping up on "higher HP cars" LOL!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CV7nnRefB4s
I too love pulling away from noise makers lol. 2 weeks ago I took my car out to drop it off later in the day in LI to have the converter restalled and tune tweaked. I happened to come across a Challenger 392 Scat pack...had stickers all over his little side window, car sounded mean, pretty sure it wasn't stock... we lined up 3 times on a roll and I walked him every time lol. It felt amazing! I text the builder/ tuner right after and told him all the work he did was worth every penny
