musicmaker1586

iTrader: (4)

I have a 2000 formula/trans am. The only mods that I have to my car is flowmaster muffler, K&N filter, hollowed cats, eibach sport lowering springs, complete stereo system (no HP out of that) . The first time at the track I ran 13.73, 13.9, 13.8, 13.72. the higher 13s are because I tried a couple of different things with the auto trans. I want to know what most people do to there f body to get lots of HP out without spending lots of cash. I am considering a ATI Procharger or Nitrous but that is in the extreme case. I would go with the Procharger but I dont really have $4000 to spend on a supercharger. I would like to mod my car so that is it still streetable but I can run low 12s mid 11s if possible.

Clipper

Sounds like n2o is just what you're looking for. It's relatively cheap, and not too tough to install yourself. Also, consider a converter and some gears. The times will drop with a good one, and the SOTP meter will get the blood flowing.

Z28 Z

like he said...nitrous is cheap to the HP gains....and converter /w some gears

frey51

get rid of the flowmaster first off. Secondly I would say get a convertor and spry or a nice sert of heads and cam.

Fry

musicmaker1586

iTrader: (4)

if nitrous then what brand (NOS, NX xpress?), jet (75, 100, 150?), for a stock car?

PendragonZ

I'll second the converter mod, that alone and you should pick up around half a second, possibly more.

98DroptopSS

iTrader: (2)

Get a N20 wet kit..for about $500 you can't beat it. Its safe to run a 100hp shot on a bone stock engine

heyitsTaJay

i would say converter, cooler, and some tires. that should drop u atleast .5 in the 1/4.

J


-N2O is cool tho

Clipper

If you decide to spray, I'd go with a 100 shot. Many get away with a 150 with no problems on a stocker, but you're sure to be safe with a 100 (unless you've got 150,000 ragged out miles on the clock). I'd probably aim for the TC and gears first though, as you'll be better able to take advantage of the spray after you have the TC/gears.

blkZ28spt

In all actuality it will probably cost you along the lines of $1,000 for N20 and a little more for a converter/shift kit/cooler. Assuming new parts, a NOS 5177 dry kit (very good intro kit, can jet up to 150 hp or leave at 100) is $550 and you are recommended to get a window switch and good (expensive NX brand I believe) bottle heater. For a converter you need the converter ($475-$900), shift kit ($110), transmission cooler ($55), and a trans temp gauge ($~75). The installation of the converter/shift kit is not something that everybody tackles themselves and will cost $250-$400 at most places.
These two mods are what I had to decide between this summer. I even had a poll post between the two, and just like everyone here they almost all said to get a converter before nitrous. Converter is very fun

Bowtieman4life

iTrader: (1)

Replace the Flowjunk with a Magnaflow of Dynoman Ultraflow ($100). Nitrous ($650) TCI 3500 converter ($500). For $1300 you can run 11's. Good Luck!

blkZ28spt

That's funny. Sorry, but I hate it when people make things seem cheaper than they really are, or quote people for the prices if you do all the work yourself (for absolutey zero cost) and you do it half *** as well. Ask anyone who knows what it takes to PROPERLY and relatively SAFELY do nitrous or a converter and those price figures are way off. Scroll back up to my post that breaks it down, you essentially NEED and MUST HAVE things besides the basic nitrous kit and converter themselves and many of us do not do our own shift kit/converter install. Hell, for the dry NOS 5177 the recommended and very good bottle heater (a must to get the optimum, consistent bottle pressrue requred to run a dry shot well) is about $200 minimum plus you need a window switch if M6 for sure (and for A4 unless you plan to spray through shifts). Oh yes, and let's not forget TIRES to run those 11's, there's a few hundred dollars more. Please stop making it sound so much cheaper/easier than it really is for 99% of us.

For example: When I did my converter I purchased the converter, shift kit, trans cooler, trans temp gauge, and an aftermarket aluminum trans pan that holds +2 quarts. That was almost $900 in parts alone and I would say that everything except the pan was necessary and should be done with every converter swap.

Bowtieman4life

iTrader: (1)

Don't be that guy! I didn't include installation or safety equipment but that's not a must. He already has a mandrel bent exhaust so he can buy a muffler and clamp it in himself or pay $30 to get it welded in. THe TCI converts are relatively cheap. They range from $400 to $550. Installing a converter is not difficult. THe Nitrous kits are usually $650. Should I assume that he is incapable of installing things himself? Just because you do a half *** job doesn't mean he or one of his buddies will. Will the kit work without the heater and the safety equipment? YES! So stop being that guy and just post your helpful advise. Nobody really gives a **** what you hate. I am trying to be helpful. If you want to add some info that will make his system work better, that's great. Otherwise

tooquick2beslo

Spray on that mother and get a converter.
You should at least knock a second and a half off of your time with those mods.
Get a tran cooler though also since the trans will run hotter with the converter.

blkZ28spt

No, it's not, but almost every person on this board who knows anything would recommend that you get a transmission cooler, shift kit, and temp gauge with a converter. And it's definately recommended you buy something besides the basic nitrous kit as well. The bottle heater on a dry kit is practically a MUST! Yes, it will work without a bottle heater, but how else are you going to get the bottle up to where that you want? It won't always even work b/c if the pressure is too low you won't get proper/adequate/reliable flow. Oh yeah and let's not forget the TIRES either, if you want to pretend to total up everything required.





See, the thing is, I DON'T do a half *** job. But if he listens to you, he WILL be doing a half *** job. That is the whole point. Not sure why you don't understand this





That's exactly what I am doing. Knowing there is more to it than just the purchase cost of the converter or nitrous kit themselves (for most people) is info that will make his system work better.

Z28SPD

you wont be running mid 11s cheap.

Z28SPD

the guy has no mods and prob doesnt know much about his car if hes asking us what he should get (no offense we've all been there) so im sure hes not going to be able to install these things himself...plus if he had a friend that could do it im sure he would ask him about what to get....soooo you

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

Converter, NOS, Headers.

CamaroSS

iTrader: (2)

What you'll need for consistancy.....


1) Lid (your choice)($95)Install in your drive way

2) Sub-frame connectors and LCAs....(around $250 together)could install in drive way

3) Cat back ($350-500)$50-70 install

4.) Headers.....LONG TUBES!!!!! nothing less ($350-800)$250-$400 install or do it yourself, just needs patience.
Now start looking for Drag Radials.....

5.) Drag Radials ($320 for 2)

6.) 3.42-3.73 gears ($180)$200-300 install, kick in the *****!!

7.) A 3400-3800 stall converter, stick with the expensive like Yank...($700-900) Like said erlier requires more than the converter, look at around $150-250 extra for tranny cooler, shift kit, plus what ever else you need. Install is very easy, but you may want to get someone else to do it. I think it is around $200-300?

Now is time for nitrous. At this time you should be looking at the mid to low 12s. If you know how to launch (VERY IMPORTANT) you should be around a 11.8-12.4 if you can hold your own. But that is a Big if, takes lots of skill to get out of the hole properly to make these lower times a reality.

If you can't hack it, but still want the sweet taste of 11s, spray a 75-100 single stage, and see a mid to low 11, with good driving. If you want to go bigger, you may risk the motor. Some LS1s aren't as strong as others, I have personaly seen 670 stock internals on spray wiht a stock rear end, but he is lucky.

Wiht anything above 125, I would go wiht a progressive dual stage. This puts less wear and tare on the engine. Spray a 75 dry, 100 wet. Ir risk it even more and go higher. But with a plain old 75 dry, you will be in the 11s consistant.

8.)Nitrous will run you around $650 for the initial kit. But if you will need window switch, bottle heater, remote opener depending on location of mount, and very very needed custom tune!!!! This bumps the price over $900 without the $300+ tune. or don't get the tune and spray your car lean and blow.

Good luck, hope this helps. Prices are ball park and do not include install, and times depend on driver, and conditions.