towo1979

I have a 2001 Trans Am WS6 and am looking to modify my car a little, give it a litle more HP. I am looking for some expert opinions on the mod's I have heard I should do.

1. TCI 3200 Torque Converter
2. Hooker Headers Long tube (do i need a 'y' pipe?)
3. What is your take on the slp flow pac?...or should I just go with a slp air lid
4. Magnaflow exhaust (i really like this exhaust)
5. Comp Cam 224/224 .581/.581

I am trying to stay away from the engine as much as possible but get a stock TA to run mid 11's. Let me know any opinions you may have...thanks.

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

For an automatic car..
#1 Good Converter.
#2 Tires (ET Streets)

af_187

he said he wants more HP not necessarily better track times.

First things : bolt ons. Get your lid, Free ram air, a SSRA or FTRA would be tight, get some long tubess..either a ORY or a Xpipe dropped (my pref), port your TB, get a pulley, do all the other cheap mods..then cam it. You'd be makin some nice #s.

If you want better track times...tires and convert + susp upgrades

777

iTrader: (21)

well if that ain't a track time i don't know what is...you will not touch 11's without touching the engine....especially mid 11's..key things to look at are *converter*, tires, clutch, and a good rear...ie 9" or 12 bolt with some nice gears...to get 11's you will either have to spray or get a cam...if you wanna go crazy you can do both...but to run 11's with not a whole lot of power...your greates investment will be a new rear...since that will go the first time you launch real hard on sticky tires

Zach@Texas-Speed

iTrader: (7)

if you wanna run mid 11's heres what i would do....(altitude has affect on your track time as well..so running a mid 11 at 0-1000 density/altitude might warrant a mid-higher 12 at 5k density altitude, so times are relative to where you are)


i'd get tires first (et streets)..to get baseline numbers
torque converter/shift kit/cooler
gears
headers/ory
throttle body
good cam/good tune
nitrous (optional at any point)
and the list goes on
suspension should be modified at any point along the journey as well although im pullin mid 11's on stock suspension/transmission and 100k on the clock

02WS6Bird

iTrader: (2)

i thiknk you can see 11's....with either a Vigilante 3200 (really stalls 3600-3800) or TCI SSF3500...BFG Drag radials or Nitto 555R drag radials...SLP Flowpac is quite nice(nothing differnt thatn anything else.....lid is a similar price to others, CAI and smoothe bellow with the filter makes upo fopr getting separae parts.....i recommend it and some1 did a test and this lid made more power thant the others) Magnaflow with Hooker LT headers will need a new Y the one thye have....or to be on the safe side gfet the QTP DUAL cutout Y pipe (althought pricey oyull have 2 electric cutouts ) get SFC's, LCA's, Adj Torque Arm, Adj. PHR and some llarger sway bars...especially rear to keeep it sticky) a T/A Girdle (keep rear end stronger and not brake with drag radials), a 160° T-Stat, 25% undrive pulley, Magnaflow, and that oughta do itother boltons may help

sorry for length

777

iTrader: (21)

i assure you that will not get you into mid 11's

BlueSix

Why not? It's been done dozens of times with bolt on cars.

formula99SD

Well, I think if you wanna see mid 11's this order of stuff would get ya there.

SSF 3500 Torque Coverter
ET Streets
Whisper / MTI / SLP Air lid (all the same)
Magnaflow Exhaust (since it is what you like)
Hooker ORY Pipe (not cats which = more horsepower, but you have to have o2 simms to pass emissions tests)
Hooker Longtube Headers
TR 224/227 .563"/.563" 114 LSA Cam (As you are an automatic, they usually do better with higher Lope Seperation Angles and for nitrous it's better to have a higher exhaust duration)
Single Valve Springs
Hardened Push Rods
SSRA (Super Sucker Ram Air)
12 Bolt rear end for high RPM launches
SFC's (Sub Frame Connectors) to keep your chassis from showing flex
90mm MAFH (Mass Air Flow Housing)
Smooth Bellows
Custom Tune
------------------------------

The MAFH and Smooth Bellows some people will say is a waste of money, but after all the big things you do ie) cam and exhaust there are little things that have to peice them together. That right there would get you to about 11.9's if you can launch hard (in my opinion). From there I'd say buy a 75 shot of NOS and go with it.

Again all just my opinion.

777

iTrader: (21)

show me one that hasn't had a few hundred lbs of weight removed...but anyhow i didn't see that cam when i responded the first time..you can get into 11's with a cam and other bolt-ons

BlueSix

check out the stock internal list, all the cars there run quicker than 11.90, and over half of them are over 3300 lbs.

777

iTrader: (21)

couldn't find the list with the search..however i found a few that ran under 11's with bolt on's some even with the stock 10 bolt...it just seemed impossible to me...since i have seen some people with heads and cam only be in the mid 11's...oh well...good luck on your stuff...not meaning to hi jack....but say im a good driver...i have headers and true duals, lid, STREET tires, ls6 intake, and bgram air...what kind of times do you think i will run...also another set of times with bfg drag radials...99 trans am ws6 by the way

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

If you have an auto car, I'd go bigger on the converter than 3500. If mid 11's are what you are after, I'd go for a 4200 tci or something in that range,get a better flexplate too, for safety reasons, a set of 3.73's, slicks/skinnies, longtube headers/ your magnaflow, pulley, ported TB, lid, maf, tuning, and look into some lightweight mods, k member + a-arms, lightweight battery. Get me HAL shocks, and rear suspension too, if the $$ isn't a problem, go for chromoly, it's lighter, and will only make things easier. The key is to get the car to 60 foot, if you could get the car to get into the 1.7 to 1.6 60 foot range, a bolt on car probably could get into the 11's no problem. Throw a cam and the associated parts ( springs, pushrods, ported oil pump ) and 11's should be no problem, as long as there's no operator issues.

DD966

iTrader: (3)

In reference to LT's: Generally, they're a P.I.T.A. to install. Eventhough Hooker makes good LT's, they'll rust. Buy stainlees steel from one of our sponsors, or you'll be installing another set in a few years.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

That's true, go stainless on the headers, the Y pipe too if you can. My Y is the only non stainless part on my exhaust, and it's rusting after 5 months

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

Here's a combo that netted me 11's on crap tires with a 1.69 short time, in humid weather. New #'s coming before seasons out. Good luck on your project.

BlueSix

That combo would probably be good for high 11's in a 6 speed with great driving and a hard launch. A 10 bolt won't cut it for that application, you will need a 12 bolt with 4.10's and slicks to see the most out of it. On street tires (assiming 2.0 60') i would guess 12.3-12.5, maybe drop another tenth or 2 if you can hook on the dr's. Stalled auto car's will almost always be quicker, they are more consistant on the launch, and are a lot more forgiving to the stock 10 bolt.

777

iTrader: (21)

yeah i know...its an m6...i'll guess i'll just be looking forward to mid 12's cause the 12 bolt won't be able to come for awhile...no money..haha..thanks for the info though

BlueSix

I think that you should be able to get the 10 bolt to withstand a slew of 1.85's on dr's, just don't dump the clutch and you should be ok. Best of luck with your goal. Lemme know what she runs.

MillaTK

Its gonna take some work and fine tuning, and some great driving, but at least high 11's can be had without internal work on an A4. Key mods are big converter, sticky tires, and short gears(3.73 or 4.10's). Then do some suspension work, and as many bolt on upgrades as possible. If you can, lighten the car as much as possible. Keep in mind, you getting into the 11's is going to be all in the launch. You are going to be trapping at lower speeds than most at the same time. Good luck