newbie looking for mods
#1
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I have a 98 trans am A4 with 2.73 gears. the mods i have
on the car is a whisper air lid, holley power shot air filter and a
flowmaster with exhaust cutout. My car best time is 13.70 @101 mph
i am pretty pleased with it but i would like to see the car in mid 12s
and still get my gas mileage, i am getting 16 to 19 in town and 26 on the
highway. I am currently looking at the MAC headers and offroad pipe and getting rid of the cats and mybe a 3.42 gear also a hypertech power programer III. I will get the programer to correct the speedo when i do the gear swap. But I am looking on reviews about the hypertech programer
if you can help thanks
P.S. i heard of a free ram air mod you can do also if you have a good link for this let me know thanks
on the car is a whisper air lid, holley power shot air filter and a
flowmaster with exhaust cutout. My car best time is 13.70 @101 mph
i am pretty pleased with it but i would like to see the car in mid 12s
and still get my gas mileage, i am getting 16 to 19 in town and 26 on the
highway. I am currently looking at the MAC headers and offroad pipe and getting rid of the cats and mybe a 3.42 gear also a hypertech power programer III. I will get the programer to correct the speedo when i do the gear swap. But I am looking on reviews about the hypertech programer
if you can help thanks
P.S. i heard of a free ram air mod you can do also if you have a good link for this let me know thanks
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the lik your looking for can be found in a bunch of places....try either the ls1.com "mods" section.
As for the mods, the headers and ory pipe will definitely get up close to 12's, especially with the gear swap. However, if your not gonna not upgrade soon after that, get the car tuned and have the gear ratio/speedo fixed as well as the o2 sensors fixed for the ory. Some people say that it should be your last mod, but a torque converter will, with acombination of witht headers and the gear swap,you WILL get in the 12'z, maybe even mid 12'z. Dont go for a small stall though, a 3600ish should be fine....if your concerned about driveability, though pricy, a 3600ss from yank is about $890.00 with a 3600 stall or "sweet spot" and a 2.50str.....which means that the stall will be tight enough to not affect daily driving but will roast them tires if need be!!!
also, look into a set of hookers or maybe pacesetters with a tsp ory..good prices and they have been recently revised so they should fit great. check sponors-------->
tsp= texas speed and performance
good luck,
and remember, the search feature is your friend, but dont be afraid to ask, we were all rookies at one point (not saying that you are) but some times it can can get a bit "interesting" when you post a thread and no one answers back..............
As for the mods, the headers and ory pipe will definitely get up close to 12's, especially with the gear swap. However, if your not gonna not upgrade soon after that, get the car tuned and have the gear ratio/speedo fixed as well as the o2 sensors fixed for the ory. Some people say that it should be your last mod, but a torque converter will, with acombination of witht headers and the gear swap,you WILL get in the 12'z, maybe even mid 12'z. Dont go for a small stall though, a 3600ish should be fine....if your concerned about driveability, though pricy, a 3600ss from yank is about $890.00 with a 3600 stall or "sweet spot" and a 2.50str.....which means that the stall will be tight enough to not affect daily driving but will roast them tires if need be!!!
also, look into a set of hookers or maybe pacesetters with a tsp ory..good prices and they have been recently revised so they should fit great. check sponors-------->
tsp= texas speed and performance
good luck,
and remember, the search feature is your friend, but dont be afraid to ask, we were all rookies at one point (not saying that you are) but some times it can can get a bit "interesting" when you post a thread and no one answers back..............
#6
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a converter is the hands down best mod for automatic. If you want to keep your gas mileage though, gears and converter will kill it. I put 3.73's in my car w/stock converter, use to get 24-26 on highway, now i get 20. I'd hate to see what its going to be like once i get a converter.
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I wouldn't spend a dime on the stock rear. Get a good converter with around a 2.5str and those 2.73s will do just fine. I run a 3500 stall with a 2.5str and my gas mileage is still around 26mpg on the highway. Around town is a different story but that's probrably due to my heavy foot. My list would look like this.
Converter
Drag Radials
Long tube headers (not mid lengths, Pacesetters are nice for a budget built)
Tune (I like my Predator, it's good for a handheld unit)
LS6/LSX Intake/throttle body
Power adder![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
BTW: Many of these parts are pretty basic bolt ons and you can find some pretty good deals on them in the classifieds section and on Ebay. However, when it comes to the converter it's good to buy new unless you find exacly what you want used.
Converter
Drag Radials
Long tube headers (not mid lengths, Pacesetters are nice for a budget built)
Tune (I like my Predator, it's good for a handheld unit)
LS6/LSX Intake/throttle body
Power adder
![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
BTW: Many of these parts are pretty basic bolt ons and you can find some pretty good deals on them in the classifieds section and on Ebay. However, when it comes to the converter it's good to buy new unless you find exacly what you want used.
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Last edited by GM Muscle; 12-03-2004 at 07:51 PM.
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#8
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Your highway mileage will not be affected by a converter and if you don't go too big your city mileage may not be all that bad either. I used to rev mine to at least 2.5k in normal driving and guess what.....with the converter I average 2.5k.My gas mileage is almost identical to pre-converter. A converter really is the single best mod you can do to an A4 and 90%+ will agree on that. A converter and drag radial (or ET streets for the track) are practically guaranteed to take 0.5+ off your time. My $0.02, don't buy the hypertech.
Check out my sig. Other than the 3.23 gear it's currently what you are going for. 12.6 untuned with converter, sticky tire, lid, CAI, and full exhaust.
#10
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if its the stock gm 3.42 gear i think you'll be safe. but the stall should definitely be your first mod, then long tube headers & catback, ported tb, sticky tires. then, if you want to put gears in, go for it. jmho.
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you should get a take off slp zexel torsen and an install kit to do the gear right, and have a PERSON WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING install the gear, unless you like whine or exploding rear ends.
seriously.
gear aint cheap after you include the zexel, a good gear (like a gm 3.42), and the necessary little things to install it properly. your mpg will suxor too.
i spend most of my time in 40mph or less and lucky to see 11mpg in city, 1hr a day, 18 miles a day, 11mpg, and i'm tweaking the hell out of the tranny/tune to get better mpg. It's all the time spent unlocked due to traffic/lights that eats up the mpg, you can't really spend too much time locked up without breaking the 35mph speed limits here, and the cops dont like the Excessive noise a converter will add before its locked up.
oh yeah don't even bother with a 2.5 STR on street tires, its a waste. Might as well put 225 wide tires on your car in the rear now and try to floor it, thats about what you'll get a big *** burnout and LOW TRAC on every gearshift.
Nitto's don't last that long (safe in rain) maybe 6K miles before you really dont want to be driving on them in a rainy situation.
Hard call man. I'd take a smaller stall but you can program around a big stall with hptuners by tweaking the shiftpoints/lockup/tq mgmt to make it aight.
any Converter should come with a cooling system (low temp thermo, trans cooler, shift kit, bigger pan) if you live in a warm climate. Or drag race.
you'll see 220F+ on trans temps thats not good.
seriously.
gear aint cheap after you include the zexel, a good gear (like a gm 3.42), and the necessary little things to install it properly. your mpg will suxor too.
i spend most of my time in 40mph or less and lucky to see 11mpg in city, 1hr a day, 18 miles a day, 11mpg, and i'm tweaking the hell out of the tranny/tune to get better mpg. It's all the time spent unlocked due to traffic/lights that eats up the mpg, you can't really spend too much time locked up without breaking the 35mph speed limits here, and the cops dont like the Excessive noise a converter will add before its locked up.
oh yeah don't even bother with a 2.5 STR on street tires, its a waste. Might as well put 225 wide tires on your car in the rear now and try to floor it, thats about what you'll get a big *** burnout and LOW TRAC on every gearshift.
Nitto's don't last that long (safe in rain) maybe 6K miles before you really dont want to be driving on them in a rainy situation.
Hard call man. I'd take a smaller stall but you can program around a big stall with hptuners by tweaking the shiftpoints/lockup/tq mgmt to make it aight.
any Converter should come with a cooling system (low temp thermo, trans cooler, shift kit, bigger pan) if you live in a warm climate. Or drag race.
you'll see 220F+ on trans temps thats not good.
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Originally Posted by ncd1966
well guys thanks for the advice i found a guy that may have a gear for sale its a 3.42 out of a 97 firebird formula he's is putting in a 3.73 so i am going check it out today if its a good buy i may buy it and and may just decide to put it in later
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