Allergik2dyin

It's a 2001 SS 6spd, t-tops with 55k miles and asking around 17grand. It's not stock though...(sorry,long list just to give you guys an idea):
Mods:
Motor:
TR224/224/.563/.563/112 Cam
JWIS Timing Chain
SLP Manual Fan control switch
Hypertech 160* Thermostat
Comp Cams Hi-Tech One-Piece Chromemoly pushrods
Comp Cams 26918 Conical Spring
Comp Cams Titanium Retainers
Cloyes Hex-A-Just Adjustable Timing Gears
LS1 Camshaft Installation gasket set
Taylor Thundervolt 50 spark plug wires
10% Underdriven ATI Superdampener
NGK TR55-IX Iridium spark plugs
Direct Flo Lid
Holley Powershot Airfilter
Canton Road Race Oil Pan
Canton Mecca Oil Filter
Canton Oil Thermostat.
Setrab Oil Cooler
APE Ported/Blueprinted/Coated oil pump.
All of the above plumbed with -12 Aeroquip stainless lines using only Canton and Aeroquip fittings.
Car was very carefully tuned. VE tables are spot on with this combination. Have been running the car in Speed-Density for the last few months getting them dialed in. (Helps part-throttle response. Much more thorough tune than most shops that just tune in the MAF and get the car dialed in for WOT and let the O2 sensors and closed loop operation keep the part throttle fuel in check.)
New Corvette O2 sensors (don't require extension to work with Long tubes so they are a little more accurate than factory sensors with extensions)
Exhaust:
Grotyohann 1 3/4" Headers with (2) O2 sensor bungs per collector (for wideband) and V-bolt clamps.
Custom 3" Y-Pipe with 3-4" Flowmaster collector. Y-pipe Attached using V-bolt Clamps at all connections
Custom 4" Mufflex performance Mandrel Bent exhaust with Borla XR-1 Racing Muffler.
Driveline:
Moser 9" Rear axle. 4.10 Gears. 35 spline gun drilled/star flanged axles, Detroit, aluminum center section, ARP Studs, Chris Alstons chassisworks fill plug/drain plug. Spring mounts modified with GC Threaded perches tig welded on. Spohn Control arm re-location brackets Tig Welded on. Painted in POR-15. (Black) Conventional Diff fluid changed at 100 miles, and again conventional after break-in. Since then Diff has only had Redline Fluid.
Ram 910 Clutch with 2800lb pressure plate.
Ram SFI approved billet flywheel
Mcleod adjustable master cylinder
GM145 slave cyl
Pro-5.0 Shifter
Momo Shift ****.
Chassis/Suspension:
LG Motorsports Single Adjustable Control Arms
LG Motorsports Single Adjustable Panhard Rod (trackbar)
Koni Double Adjustable Shocks (all four corners)
Ground Control Coilovers all four corners (550F/150R)
1LE Swaybars (front and rear)
Spohn performance adjustable crossmember mounted torque arm. Heim Joint. Flat Crossmember (exhaust/floorpan modified to tuck everything up high. I have the dropped crossmember too but it gave up too much ground clearance.)
Fuel System:
Custom Nasty performance Fabricated sumped fuel tank. Custom built to my specs (To give additional clearance for 4" Exhaust and Ford 9" Axle when lowered) using a fuel safe 2 1/2" filler inlet (standard is 1 1/4" bung without rollover protection, this gives the safety of a rollover protection valve and larger tube to allow for faster re-fueling.) (2) -8 (rollover protection check valved) Vent lines plumbed with Aeroquip hose to outside of framerail with K&N Breathers.
Fuel Safe Aircraft Style Remote Mount Flush Cap to allow use of 2 1/2" Fill Tube
Brakes:
Earls Stainless Brake lines
Hawk HPS Pads
Thunder Racing Line Lock Kit
SLP Weld on Sub frame connectors - Tig Welded
Wheels/Tires:
Nitto 555R2 tires (P275/40/ZR17)
Extreme Motorsports Chrome Z06 Wheels (17x9.5" all around)
Blizzaks on stock Chrome wheels

akZ28

Its just my opinion but I'd much rather have a car that is completly stock. Just because all those mods can mean an extensive history that only the original owner will know about. Problems down the road could be a result. My advice buy a car that is stock.

JerseyLS1TA

iTrader: (2)

If a car has them many mods done, it has probably seen its share of abuse...which may be the reason the owner is selling it. Plus you don't know who worked on it and all the mods were done correctly. This is just my opinion, but like already said I would rather buy a stock car or a very mildly modded one.

fasteddyss

iTrader: (1)

Whoever is selling it must be an LS1TECH addict!!!

It all depends on what you want. You could never duplicate what was done for that money. You also need to weigh in what might bust soon.

No old lady did these mods.

A buy on this would come down to how you feel about the seller.

If he seems trustworthy, mild mannered and in need of cash, or moving on to another project, yes.

If it seems he is trying to get out from under it-NO!!

Good luck!!!!!!!!!!

Allergik2dyin

Well...I've been talking to the guy through e-mails for the past couple months and he is selling it because he needs money for a house. Its my understanding that all of the mods have under 5,000 miles and have been installed by professionals. It is a well-maintained car ie the transmission fluid and oil especially. Also, the stock leather seats were taken out when he first bought it and kept in storage so that they wouldnt get messed up. I believe he also said that it has only been to the track a few times. In my opinion he seems like a trustworthy guy. My only concerns would be my understanding of all of the mods and ins and outs if something went wrong. Also, I'm still not positive whether it would be to my advantage to start with a stock car and work my way up. In this case, however, I would be saving alot of money on mods considering that they're already installed. ALL of your opinions and repsonses are appreciated and much needed.

radio626active

You'll never get a SS for that type of cash with all those mods unless either hes telling the truth and needs cash or that car got rode hard. Nobody mods a car that much and drives it easy. Inpect the car well, meet the owner in person, get a good feeling for both.

OOZ28

I think buying a car that modded is asking for problems in the long run. But then again, if you plan on modding a stocker why not just drop the cash on something thats already modded. Its a never ending decison, buying ethier a stock one or a modded one has its pros and cons, but its up to you, and what you see when you look at the car. Just make sure you look at it real close, and run a carfax on it, before you buy it.

Allergik2dyin

In the back of my head I know that I shouldn't buy a modded car because I'd like to have it from stock form, get used to it and do all the modding and work on it myself. But then again I'd be saving alot of money by buying it already modded. I guess it just sounds like a good deal to me.

BlueSix

As much as i am against buying a modded car, this car sounds like a good one. There is one thing you can do to see if the guy is telling the truth about how long the mods have been on the car. Grottoyhan headers haven't been made in a LONG time...but they are one of the best designed LS1 headers (kooks and QTP's are designed after the Grott design). Ask him where he got the Grott headers. If he bought them new then they have probably been on the car for a long time (more than 5K miles) if he got them used then it's likely that he is being up front with you. Also, the speed density tune is a good thing, show's that the guy knows what he's doing. If i had the money i think it's a car i would personally go for.

Beast

You could buy my stock '01 Z M6. Only around 42k miles. I'm not looking to sell it.......but in reality, anything is for sale(most anything )

XJGPN

I just stumbled on this thread and I’m assuming this is my car that’s being asked about. (if not someone built a clone of my car and is selling it too ) I hope it isn’t considered poor etiquette to post in this thread but I figured I’d add a bit.

1) I have driven the car a bit more in the last few months since we first started discussing the car. It currently has right around 57,000 miles.. and as such most of the mods are closer to having 7,000 miles on them now. That being said, about 1,000 miles ago I sent the third member out to Moser and had them swap the Spool I used to have for a Detroit… so the diff setup has that much mileage on it.
2) I saw a few people post about concerns regarding the fact that the car is modified vs. stock. I would say it depends on a number of factors. If you plan on leaving the car stock, then by all means buy a stock car… but if you are comparing buying the car and then modifying it vs. buying a modified car that is close to your end goals… I say buy the modified car because the aftermarket parts are worth $0.10 on the dollar when sold with the car. This of course is assuming that the work was done properly. What you want to avoid is people who just built the car without knowing what they are doing. Specifically someone with Heads, Cam and nitrous with a stock tune stock clutch or stock axle… you know that car has not had the supporting mods done… and whenever a job is half-assed you end up hurting the integrity of the car. This car has never had nitrous on it, and it is a cam only car. I had been building it with the plan being to do a sick motor in the future… I just did the cam and headers to keep it interesting.
3) As for the abuse issue… I agree that is something you have to look at when buying a modded car. This car… as has been said, has not been modified to be driven by an old lady… I do like to drive quickly… for me that basically means driving aggressively on on-ramps and off-ramps (between the suspension and the tires this car just plain sticks) but, that being said, The car has never had a set of slicks on it and I have never powershifted it. Since the bulk of the mods were done, I have only made 2 passes with the car. On both of those passes the car just blew off the clutch on the line… so I have since replaced the clutch with the setup mentioned above. (before that I had a Mcleod Single). The car has not made a pass on this clutch yet. Personally, I don’t feel that I have been abusive to the car because I built the car to be able to be driven aggressively (quite frankly, for the "aggressively I'm referring to, the car is totally overbuilt. Note the oil system and rear axle) and I am incredibly attentive with fluid changes and general maintenance to make sure that everything is in perfect condition.
4) As for who had done the modifications… almost all work on the car has been done by me. Mufflex did the Y-pipe and exhaust, and Moser set up the gears, but other than that, I did all of the mods myself. Since we are discussing if the mods were done “professionally” or not… I think I need to give a brief “resume” of sorts to demonstrate that I’m not a hack. I would be happy to provide references of people who have both seen my work on my car, and who have had me do work on their cars for them. Plus, if you want general information on integrity, I have been selling a few items lately (as you had mentioned… I’m trying to put together as much money as possible towards a down payment on a house) So, I can put you in touch with people who have bought the items since they aren’t really “friends” just people who bought stuff from me. (Fact of the matter with people who I’ve done work for is that they are going to be, by virtue of the fact that I’m helping them with their cars… friends). If you make a post in the Eastern forum, I’m sure a number of them will chime in. I have worked on a number of projects with friends which include building a custom twin turbo setup in a third gen, I Helped Charles Boyian of NY Speed & Machine get his Jeep Grand Cherokee into the bottom 12’s (I mention that one since I know you are into jeeps as well). I have helped build a bunch of custom suspensions on jeeps, and a bit of work on building tube frames for jeeps and suspensions for them. I helped build the Mostly Motorsports AGT Corvette for the 24 hours of Daytona (although I’m not particularly proud of that car… it had so many borrowed parts on it that it didn’t even make it through qualifying. Totally the result of engine problems, which I had nothing to do with… but still, if it means anything Chris Thompson said the car handled awesome before he had to drop out… and I did work on the front suspension on the car). I was a member of the crew for the #06 Corvette in the Trans Am series driven by Joey Scarallo starting at Mid-Ohio in 2001 through the 2003 Puerto Rican GP. They condensed the season in 2004 so the team owner could no longer run the team… The car was campaigned by Baucom Motorsports last year and by Tony Ave. Racing this year. When the schedule condensed they dissolved the old team... and since the car is now based out of NC, I no longer have any affiliation with it. While I won’t give out Joey Scarallo’s contact information for obvious reasons, if you come to look at the car I’d be more than happy to give him a call and I’m sure he would vouch for my ability with working on cars. Being as he is currently second in the standings, I’m hoping he would be a decent reference . If you just are looking for proof of my involvement, you can contact Louis of LG Motorsports on this board as I know him from when they used to run in the TA series and if it means anything, I am the Mike R from this blurb on PSC’s website: http://www.poisonspydercustoms.com/ Spyder Bytes->Spyder Archive->PSC goes to the races The situation was that during Qualifying at Road America, we broke our frame side adjustable third link mount in the car. For a temporary fix, we just welded it up for the race, but since there was only a week between Road America and Denver, we didn’t have time to make a replacement for the next race weekend since the car was going directly from Road America to Denver without stopping back to the home shop in NY. I know a few of the PSC guys because of my jeep stuff, so I took a bunch of measurements while in the trailer at Road America. Then when I got back to NY (I came back for the week, the car went straight to Denver) I drew up plans in Autocad, then sent them over to the guys at PSC and they bailed us out by machining the parts for & assembling a new/stronger adjustable third link slider assembly. Since the car arrived in Denver before the Crew did, the PSC guys stepped up and met the team owner and did the work on the car while we were still in transit.
5) As for the Grot headers.. yes, they are used. I had bought them back in 2002 after I helped remove them from a friend’s car. They sat unused in my garage until last summer when I did most of the mods. At that point I cleaned them up, tig welded V-band clamps on them, added additional bungs for a wideband O2 sensor, then installed them. Once installed I trailered the car to Mufflex and I had them modify a QTP Y-pipe to work with the Grot Headers (a small extension had to be made because the Grot collectors are slightly shorter than the QTP collectors), and at that same time they custom built a 4” exhaust using a Borla XR-1 Muffler. Their off the shelf exhausts are meant to be used with either Flowmaster or Spintech Mufflers. Also, not all of the mods are that new. Specifically the SLP Manual Fan control switch, Direct Flo Lid, Pro-5.0 Shifter Momo Shift ****. SLP Weld on Sub frame connectors. Motorsports Chrome Z06 Wheels were all installed within the first few months of owning the car. The LG Motorsports Single Adjustable Control Arms, LG Motorsports Single Adjustable Panhard Rod (trackbar) Koni Double Adjustable Shocks (all four corners) Ground Control Coilovers all four corners (550F/150R) 1LE Swaybars (front and rear) Thunder Racing Line Lock Kit were added slowly as money allowed. The engine parts I had been slowly accumulating, but I was nervous about installing them with the stock axle. After installing the Ford 9” at roughly 50,000 miles… I no longer had any reason to not install the power mods. I did replace all of the heim joints in the existing suspension components when I swapped in the 9” though.
6) There was some mention of the car being an SS. It is not. It is a Z28 with a Factory SS hood. I didn’t just buy an SS because I don’t like the SS spoiler, or wheels… which only left me with the hood I wanted. I used a factory hood because the aftermarket hoods don’t have nearly the same fit & finish.
7) As for running the Carfax. By all means. I would be very happy to provide you with my Vin # so that you can check it. The car has never been in any sort of accident.

I hope I covered all of the questions/comments/concerns. By all means ask away if you have any others.

Regards,
Michael Rizzi

PS- Sorry that this is so long winded and difficult to read.. I'm a bit tired and I tend to ramble when posting while tired. I'll try to make it a little clearer tomorrow if possible.

Allergik2dyin

Yes, I think its safe to say it is your car haha. I thought I would run it by all of the guys on the board to get their opinions. It really does sound like a great deal. Hopefully I will be able to come by and check out the car very soon.

tcarswell

wow thats a funny coincidence.

XJGPN

As fasteddyss said.. With my camaro being as modified as it is... chances are pretty good I check the boards a lot :-) . The coincidence is that I really don't ever look in this particular forum... the subject line happened to be up on the main page, so I was curious since I'm looking to sell my 2001 Z28 and I wanted to see how comparable they were pricewise... then I started reading the mod list and was like... that looks really familiar :-) . I feel bad about posting in this thread though because the conversation seems to have stopped once I did... Totally not my intention, I just saw some good questions pop up and figured I'd answer them as they came up. If my post is what has stopped the responses, then I will delete my post as I really didn't mean to get in the way of the conversation.

Regards,
Michael Rizzi

LoPeY

iTrader: (6)

It looks like a very good buy too me. Anytime you see a modification list that complete and extensive, 99% of the time the car is worth buying. Any person in their right mind would not dump that kind of money into a car and then sell it off with ill intention being that everything is so extensively upgraded.