Parts needed.
1: 2 intakes the ones shaped like a cone. AUTOZONE $25 each
2: 2 intake hoses 3" next to the filters AUTOZONE $20 each
3: 2 hoses for intake 3" and they are sold in autozone too but are not in the same isle they are on a different isle and are in boxes not plastic wrapping they are for the intake too $12 each
4: a sprinkler t. go to the sprinkler asle in home depot and get a 3" T make sure us the white plastic one not the black one or your hood will not close.
$1


ok now remove the original filter all the way to your throtle body. and remove the 2 sensors in the assembly. cut down the original hose so that it is smaller and the large sensor is right next to the throtle body. now the intakes should come with plastic adapters get one of those and put it on the other end of the large sensor and and conect the T from homedepot there. now you will have to run 2 hoses into that t one of them is going to go underneath the fuse box and the other behind the battery. down the headlights.into the front where they meet in the front there i cut a hole where it says camaro and put the filters there. it is hard to explain so who ever is interested e-mail me and i have pictures of all the process. and that will give a better idea of how to do it. and to me it works better than the ones they sell.

this is to help out all who dont have a lot of money to spend but want to upgrade their cars. like me.



nuclearwarhead2002@hotmail.com

 

You just spent $115 when you could have easily bought a used CAI for much less, or a new one for about the same price.

 

pics?

 

Cold air intake is only like $150.

 

You could have also spent like $20 and bought bendable drier hose and a cheap air filter. Personally, I don't trust most cold air systems. Essentially, the air inductions system works like a vacuum. And cold air puts it close to the ground. So it's like driving with a vacuum 3 inches away from the ground. Since air filters aren't 100% efficient, I choose to pass the extra 1-1.5 hp and have my engine last longer. Also, there's hydrolock, but that's an exaggerated problem. Most people think it's getting water into the intake, which really isn't a problem. It's when the entire intake pipe or filter is submerged.

 

well mine is not so close to the ground

hey im a creative person. and if i can build it my self. it would be better because i get to know more about cars and i like how it looks.


here are some pics.

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.ph...KqE3B&i=135696

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.ph...KqE3B&i=135697

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.ph...KqE3B&i=135698

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.ph...KqE3B&i=135699

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.ph...KqE3B&i=135700

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.ph...KqE3B&i=135701

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.ph...KqE3B&i=135703

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.ph...KqE3B&i=135704

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.ph...KqE3B&i=135705

 

too bad those filters arent white, would've perfectly matched your stripes. Still looks nice though.

 

You left the factory box on? Bendable dryer hose would take out that nasty flex hose. That "T" has got to be more restrictive than a potato caught in the pipe. And it looks a bit on the ricey side.

 

I think it looks good.... it's pretty creative thats for sure. Did you dyno it before and after the install to see if there was a gain?

 

I got worried thinking you left the grille out untill I saw that last photo (saved you from the ricer look). Wouldn't the T junction be more restrictive than the stock lid setup?? Still very creative, but I would try and change the route the pipe takes or just do the FTRA.

 

Yeah it looks pretty cool! I thought about making my own CAI but I figure If I could get the Ram Air and Cold Air then it would be more beneficial than just having one or the other. So im just going to wait to put a WS6 package on the T/A. Plus having that much pipe has to be bad for the flow of the air. That would be cool for a turbo setup however. You probably wouldnt even have to run an intercooler.

Looks good though! I would deffinately adjust the T on the MAF sensor. Maybe use a 2 bend pipe that is used for water flow and convert that into your junction.

 

I like the filter location, and...that's about it.

 

I've never looked at a "normal" Z/28 or Firebird to
see what the air path really is, but I think that the
focus on ducting may be misplaced. This follows
the hype about "ram air" I expect, but that's a hoax
(somebody show me pressure data, otherwise).

Because the radiator space "divider panel" sort of
walls off the area in front of the air cleaner slot
from the radiator, this air should be cooler than
underneath. If you can enhance outside air getting
into this space it will serve for the cold air, if not the
cuteness. You might need to add a blockoff plate like
the FIPK does, to further bias the intake air to the
forward space and cut off the flow from the engine
compartment. This is easy sheet metal fabrication
(angle aluminum, maybe).

The "nostrils" in the front bumper of a Z/28 (behind
the "Camaro" plate) feed this space. Some styrofoam
partly obstructs the opening but this you can fix with
a steak knife. I don't know if the noseplate also
obstructs these holes or not, my "SS" plate has one
louver per "nostril" and otherwise these holes are open.

Check it out. Think "free path" rather than "ducted"
cold air, close the hot gaps and open the cold ones.

 

Don't think it is that great of a cold air set up.

1) air that is picked up has to travel over 4ft on each side in the very hot engine bay, heating that air up while it travels thru ur duct.

2) The duct routing looks alittle ricey, it's all over the place.

3) Like what way said that t is restricive as hell, change it out for a y

4) Keeping the factory air box in looks shisty, Use ur creative thoughts for that one.

On the other hand I will give you probs for thinking outside the box!

 

I dont really think there is a Hoax about putting a ram air package from the factory on a Trans Am and say that the ram air added 20 more horsepower. If it is a hoax I dont really think they would of been able to sell that many.

As for my opinion the LS1 runs off of a MAF sensor which takes reading of the volume and pressure of incoming air to get a reading for the ECM to take. The older LT1 engines used Speed Density metering which did not run a MAF sensor and therefore I dont believe had the Ram Air package available to them. They on the other hand had a multiple factors to keep the engine running correctly including coolant temperature sensors, TPS sensors, Idle air control motor, knock sensor etc...

Since the LS1 does run off a MAF sensor I believe that the intake temperature as well as volume of air would effect the performance of the air. I am not sure about the Ram Air package on the Trans Am, but it seems to me that the placement of the ram air system looks pretty good for the flow of air over the car. At least placing the filter on top of the engine bay allows for hopefully more than 50% of all of the air that hits the car to go into the engine. Maybe when I get a wind tunnel I will be able to test this for you

 

Ram Air = 0 performance gain.

LT1 did have MAFs and "Ram Air". Also, LS1 are not run solely by the MAF but have other inputs just as the LT1 did. You can run both LS1s and LT1s w/ ther MAF unplugged.

Back to the thread, like 777 said: I like the placement and thats about it. The black hose and the T have to go...

 

Here's my idea for you: keep the filters where they are and run the tubes up through your lower airbox and make a "Y" to connect them right before your MAF. That way the air won't have to travel such a long distance, there wont be any heat issues with the air, and not to mention it will look better imo.

 

Well crap. I guess I will just be buying a Ram air hood to look cool then.

 

 

personally i think it was alot more work and money than it was worth..your prob not seeing any gains over the stock system with the FTRA system....take that money and get some new stripes...looks like someone butchered your vinyl with the black outlining...the two filters do look cool but thats about it.....with the grill on you cant even see that, but hey if it floats your boat go for it