Pondering what to do next... any advice?
#1
Staging Lane
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Pondering what to do next... any advice?
All I have for performance and appearance right now is an SLP lid, the freebie mods, mobil 1 stuff, and some Zaino. Here's what I'm pondering doing at the moment:
Dual gauge pillar with Cobalt series Trans temp and water temp gauges (also will be adding a switch to swap water temp gauge between water and oil temps)
Delete AIR/EGR, cept no way to remove codes at the moment...
Acrylic Camaro and Z-28 decals/fill-ins
New Camaro lettered door sil covers
Fuel Rail Covers
Subframes cept I have no way to lift the car via suspension...
I would like to do more for performance, but I have a three year engine warrenty that I'd rather not void... I like the idea of the gauges so I can moniter my new engine more closely and the fact that they look sweet.
What are some of the first few things you guys have done?
Dual gauge pillar with Cobalt series Trans temp and water temp gauges (also will be adding a switch to swap water temp gauge between water and oil temps)
Delete AIR/EGR, cept no way to remove codes at the moment...
Acrylic Camaro and Z-28 decals/fill-ins
New Camaro lettered door sil covers
Fuel Rail Covers
Subframes cept I have no way to lift the car via suspension...
I would like to do more for performance, but I have a three year engine warrenty that I'd rather not void... I like the idea of the gauges so I can moniter my new engine more closely and the fact that they look sweet.
What are some of the first few things you guys have done?
#2
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Do the SFCs, and some suspension stuff, such as LCAs, and a PHB, and a strut tower brace. I'd HIGHLY recommend the SFCS, be it UMI, BMR, SLP, etc. Relatively cheap, and you can find a local shop or sponsor to the right that will install them for you. Should run around 75 welded in. I'd suggest finding someone that has done them, if you, for some reason, aren't very local to a sponsor.
You could do a ported TB or port yourself (very easy), and a cat-back, as the exhaust shouldn't hurt your warrenty.
change the plugs too - NGK TR55s, cost around 12 bucks or so, and you'll get rid of the platinum **** that is in there from the factory.
No comment on the gauges, but I'm guessing you are an auto car since you are putting trans temp in (you didnt like car/year/etc). You *could* do a stall, tranny cooler, etc.. aswell..
Fuel rail covers, if they are your thing look badass, but you could also do a set of Polished valve covers and a coilpack relocation kit, which I think looks alot cleaner.
Also I'm sending a PM.
You could do a ported TB or port yourself (very easy), and a cat-back, as the exhaust shouldn't hurt your warrenty.
change the plugs too - NGK TR55s, cost around 12 bucks or so, and you'll get rid of the platinum **** that is in there from the factory.
No comment on the gauges, but I'm guessing you are an auto car since you are putting trans temp in (you didnt like car/year/etc). You *could* do a stall, tranny cooler, etc.. aswell..
Fuel rail covers, if they are your thing look badass, but you could also do a set of Polished valve covers and a coilpack relocation kit, which I think looks alot cleaner.
Also I'm sending a PM.
#3
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OOh, and do the !wire mod too, and hide the ground wires.
www.lswon.com has a nice writeup, and there is a nice stickie in the appearance section too.
I just pulled the pins out of the multipack connectors and slid the wires through, rather than drilling a large hole.
www.lswon.com has a nice writeup, and there is a nice stickie in the appearance section too.
I just pulled the pins out of the multipack connectors and slid the wires through, rather than drilling a large hole.
#4
Staging Lane
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Good ideas so far, I think I might do the !wire mod too while I'm at it. It's tough, there are just tons of things I could do within the 300-400 dollar range. I think I'm going to do as many of the relativly small appearance things as I can before I go back to school and then do one larger thing, such as the gauges or the SFC. I would like to do the SFC but as I said, I live in the middle of nowhere and not only is it tough to find a shop that will install stuff you bring in, but they're all rice burner shops whom have never delt with an Fbody... There is one back at school that would be able to do it, so maybe that'll be a winter project..
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#10
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because if you plan on making real power you will find bolts like to losen....
also dont slp bolt ins also bolt to the stock tunnel suppot mount?
if so then it means you wont be able to run a REAL tq arm...
also dont slp bolt ins also bolt to the stock tunnel suppot mount?
if so then it means you wont be able to run a REAL tq arm...
#11
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I'd suggest running 2point SFCs, and welding them in aswell.
like Jab said, 3pt SLPs would most probalby interfere with any tq arm, and forsure would wreck havoc on a crossmember mounted setup.
like Jab said, 3pt SLPs would most probalby interfere with any tq arm, and forsure would wreck havoc on a crossmember mounted setup.
#12
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I would do at least a cat-back system or cold air (FTRA or similar). SFCs are a good idea i have bolt-ons (SLP) and they have worked really well 'cept now they have to come out for the STS kit :-D! definately lower control arms though! good luck!