best way to spend $400.00, making a z28 faster??
#23
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Originally Posted by radio626active
Id go to ebay and buy that electric 2psi blower (hair dryer), and have money left over! IM KIDDING! IM KIDDING!
buy that along with the 1.2k resistor for $20.00..
figure the new boost and advance timeing, my ls1 should pick up about 120hp, and beat the local ricers and their 50hp racing stripe mods. lol
#25
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Originally Posted by NYC FRANK
Get a good hand held tuner ! First thing I did was do the free mods,get K&N air filter,Loud mouth exhaust,Predator tuner.It made the biggest increase in seat of the pants HP. You can adjust your tranny's shifting characteristics with it also! I cant use mine anymore cause the ECM has been edited but I can still read & erase trouble codes with It.
REAL tuning software is what you want....
#26
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Originally Posted by NYC FRANK
No **** they suck but the kids got a stock car & $400 bucks! Most bang for the buck if thats all he wnts to put into it.
He obviously spent a bit more than $400 though.
#28
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Originally Posted by NYC FRANK
No **** they suck but the kids got a stock car & $400 bucks! Most bang for the buck if thats all he wants to put into it.
so if you have 50 bucks i could **** in a box and send it to you... it would be the same thing....
look if it sucks then it sucks..... there are alot of things he can do with 400 bucks that WONT be a waist of time.... he has obviousely been paying attention, and has made some solid choices... he should do exactly what he stated in his first post...
#29
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Originally Posted by 200kTA
400$ could get u probebly a used dry kit on your car...
NITROUSE IS NOT SOMETHING YOU GO CHEAP ON!!!!!!!
#30
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Originally Posted by jaberwaki
wow this is gonna be a long day.......
NITROUSE IS NOT SOMETHING YOU GO CHEAP ON!!!!!!!
NITROUSE IS NOT SOMETHING YOU GO CHEAP ON!!!!!!!
Too many people recommend nitrous with a $400-$500 budget.
#31
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Originally Posted by NYC FRANK
He already has a flowmaster exhaust and like I said when you get a real tune you can still use it to read & erase codes?
a cutout will net him 10-15 hp over the flowmaster....
If he BUYS REAL tuning software (for instance i bought hp tuners) then he can do any of that, he can also TRUELY tune his car, scale fuel mapping for injectors size changes, switch to speed dencity instead of MAF, and a million other things he CANT do with some cheaply put together over priced hand held....
#32
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Originally Posted by NYC FRANK
Also my 00 a4 ran a 13.07 with nothing more than BFG drags & A Predator tune.
#33
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Originally Posted by NYC FRANK
Your way to smart for me oh great fuzzy one.
Gotta go now cause I have a life.
I love this....."blah blah blah my feeling are hurt because you made perfectly logical points that were better then mine, so i am going to go lick the wounds on my hurt ego, but i am going to leave with this witty comeback...I HAVE A LIFE SO THERE .... there that will get him good...."
you newbies crack me up.....
lemme hand you a cookie and give you a clue... i am here....playing on the internet.... at work... getting paid $45 an hour.... this is what i do when i have nothing important going on here.... so ....OOOOOOOOOOO you have a LIFE..
wow captain.. thats great .. good luck with that
#34
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Originally Posted by NYC FRANK
Gotta go now cause I have a life.
And people who spend time online researching their hobby and helping others with it don't have a life.
#36
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Originally Posted by 200kTA
thats why i said USED kit. i know new would cost u 700-800 bucks but u can find complete kits for 400 all day long.
what do you consider complete? i have not seen any complete kits for this price....
the cheapest complete kits i have seen used go for 700-800 bucks...
new a truely COMPLETE kit should be 1500ish...
#37
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once again, THANK YOU to everyone who has posted, even if your thoughts sucked or where good. All thoughts are appreciated.
first off yes I am a newbie to LS1tech but I have about 3yrs and 2000posts on ls1.com. I have found out that ls1.com was knowledgable but ls1tech is definitely full of more knowledge and alittle more serious. Throughtout of my 12 years of driving and owning cars, 4 of them have been f-bodies, 84 firebird, 87 Trans am GTA, 94 z28 a4 and my current love, a 2001 z28 m6.
Here is the reason for my intial question: I feel that to properly build up a car, you have to build it with the right plan and the right order. Dont just build up your engine and expect to grip, or expect the drivetrain to handle it, or beable to stop on a dime at 130+mph. Its not a perfect world.
here is more order of mods I did first to last, to back up my above statement:
(car bought used with 20,000 miles and LS6 heads installed)
EBC dimpled/slotted rotors, all the way around with hawk pads. (whats the point of going fast if you cant stop fast)
17" wheels to hold 275 width tires. (need traction)
k/n filter- (still not convinced that oil filters out perform paper)
Strut tower stabilizer bar (tighten up the front)
SLP LID- (engine needs to breath)
SLP 85mm MAF- (i know it sucks for others but works fine for me)
Fernco rubber pipe ($3 at menards, cheaper and flows better then SLPs bellow)
Cut Open radiator shroud- (more air to intake)
Ported TB, and did bump stop mod, myself (engine needs to breath, higher voltage at WOT is nice)
Spec stage 3 clutch, drill mod and new slave since I destroyed the throwout bearing.
Poly-trans mount (need proper trans angle)
Flowmaster exhuast (my mistake, I knew the name was good and the sound was good,. but have learned flowmaster is not good for f-bodys)
Now since I am installing headers, ORY pipe, and a 231/237 cam this winter(fun winter project), I wanted to spend a budget amount this summer and not take away from my savings for the cam\headers project.
I want to get the most out of my parts while setting the stage for the major parts, while having a little more performance for the rest of the summer.
My camaro is going to be 100% Natural aspirated, and no bottles (thanks for the NOS thoughts), also I cant see buying a tuner when I am tuning my car this winter after the heads/cam install (thank for the tuning thoughts). At time of cam/head install, I will also install a 3.73 gear, once again tuning is helpfull then..
So right now that leaves me with $400.00 to do any combination of the following or whatever combo or parts you guys have suggested or can still suggest.
LCA (definitely needed, bushing rot)(bmr)
CAI (whisper)
magnaflow muffler or cut-out???not sure which one
lower springs w/adjustable panhard bar(bmr)
Torque arm (bmr)
underdrive pulley(asp)
subframe connectors (kenny brown)
short throw shifter (pro 5.0)
So I figured out of that list, alittle mix of power and suspension, will continue to lay a good foundation for this winters build up.
Now I asked the question on here, because I know there are guys with faster/more built up cars that might have some better insight then my own thoughts.
Once again thanks to everyone...
first off yes I am a newbie to LS1tech but I have about 3yrs and 2000posts on ls1.com. I have found out that ls1.com was knowledgable but ls1tech is definitely full of more knowledge and alittle more serious. Throughtout of my 12 years of driving and owning cars, 4 of them have been f-bodies, 84 firebird, 87 Trans am GTA, 94 z28 a4 and my current love, a 2001 z28 m6.
Here is the reason for my intial question: I feel that to properly build up a car, you have to build it with the right plan and the right order. Dont just build up your engine and expect to grip, or expect the drivetrain to handle it, or beable to stop on a dime at 130+mph. Its not a perfect world.
here is more order of mods I did first to last, to back up my above statement:
(car bought used with 20,000 miles and LS6 heads installed)
EBC dimpled/slotted rotors, all the way around with hawk pads. (whats the point of going fast if you cant stop fast)
17" wheels to hold 275 width tires. (need traction)
k/n filter- (still not convinced that oil filters out perform paper)
Strut tower stabilizer bar (tighten up the front)
SLP LID- (engine needs to breath)
SLP 85mm MAF- (i know it sucks for others but works fine for me)
Fernco rubber pipe ($3 at menards, cheaper and flows better then SLPs bellow)
Cut Open radiator shroud- (more air to intake)
Ported TB, and did bump stop mod, myself (engine needs to breath, higher voltage at WOT is nice)
Spec stage 3 clutch, drill mod and new slave since I destroyed the throwout bearing.
Poly-trans mount (need proper trans angle)
Flowmaster exhuast (my mistake, I knew the name was good and the sound was good,. but have learned flowmaster is not good for f-bodys)
Now since I am installing headers, ORY pipe, and a 231/237 cam this winter(fun winter project), I wanted to spend a budget amount this summer and not take away from my savings for the cam\headers project.
I want to get the most out of my parts while setting the stage for the major parts, while having a little more performance for the rest of the summer.
My camaro is going to be 100% Natural aspirated, and no bottles (thanks for the NOS thoughts), also I cant see buying a tuner when I am tuning my car this winter after the heads/cam install (thank for the tuning thoughts). At time of cam/head install, I will also install a 3.73 gear, once again tuning is helpfull then..
So right now that leaves me with $400.00 to do any combination of the following or whatever combo or parts you guys have suggested or can still suggest.
LCA (definitely needed, bushing rot)(bmr)
CAI (whisper)
magnaflow muffler or cut-out???not sure which one
lower springs w/adjustable panhard bar(bmr)
Torque arm (bmr)
underdrive pulley(asp)
subframe connectors (kenny brown)
short throw shifter (pro 5.0)
So I figured out of that list, alittle mix of power and suspension, will continue to lay a good foundation for this winters build up.
Now I asked the question on here, because I know there are guys with faster/more built up cars that might have some better insight then my own thoughts.
Once again thanks to everyone...
#39
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Originally Posted by 200kTA
thats why i said USED kit. i know new would cost u 700-800 bucks but u can find complete kits for 400 all day long.
ibanez7: Given everything you said, the parts you listed and the $400 I would get the magnaflow (or hooker) cat-back. Realistically that will use most of your money, but you can probably swing the magnaflow and the LCA's. I was going to suggest cutout but not with an off road y-pipe, due to both volume and tone of the exhaust note.
#40
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I wont be buying the full catback magnaflow system, just the muffler to replace my flowmaster muffler. I already have the tips and catback pipe.