Good call. 
Order to do mods?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2005
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Order to do mods? Fresh out of college, I finally got the car I've wanted since I was 12 - a T/A. I'm going to be doing a bit of traveling and should have $500 - $1000 a month to put into her for the next year or two. I could use advice on the order to do mods / what to buy so hopefully nothing gets broke. Plans are for a street racer that occasionally sees the track, but she's also a daily driver. Reading through the forums I've been scared into doing all the driveline and suspension mods first. I think I've settled on:
9" rear (from / through who is still up in the air, as are the numbers for it, e-lock/softlocker/posi, etc)
koni shocks
true dual exhaust
17" or 18" running 315's or 335's
Also eying Eibach springs...
Eventually (when I have another DD?) I'd like to see 600+ rwhp so I'm trying to keep that in mind when buying parts.
Thanks for the help guys!
9" rear (from / through who is still up in the air, as are the numbers for it, e-lock/softlocker/posi, etc)
koni shocks
true dual exhaust
17" or 18" running 315's or 335's
Also eying Eibach springs...
Eventually (when I have another DD?) I'd like to see 600+ rwhp so I'm trying to keep that in mind when buying parts.
Thanks for the help guys!
Well rims and tires are going to be more than $1,000 alone, especially if you get those big tires.
There are different ways to go about modding your vehicle, so you have to choose the way that fits your needs.
On a bone-stock Trans Am I would get:
Lid $150 (or Volant if you can swing the $300)
Corsa Catback $900 (install included)
G2 Springs $250
Short Shifter $200
Total $1,500
There are different ways to go about modding your vehicle, so you have to choose the way that fits your needs.
On a bone-stock Trans Am I would get:
Lid $150 (or Volant if you can swing the $300)
Corsa Catback $900 (install included)
G2 Springs $250
Short Shifter $200
Total $1,500
11 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 5,524
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From: The South
Building from the bottom up is a very good idea that not too many people actually do. Manual trans? If so the rear end is definately a good start. Also grab some subframe connectors and any suspension parts you may want in the future. A stronger (probably pretty expensive) clutch is a good idea as well.
When it comes to power you have to make some serious decisions if you really, truly plan to make 600 rwhp. That is a LOT of power. It's not very hard to make 400-450 rwhp with a naturally aspirated, stock bottom end engine but to make 500-600 reliable rwhp takes a lot of money. If you really want to and can afford to make that much power look into increasing the displacement and spraying it. Great NA power and insane power on the bottle.
When it comes to power you have to make some serious decisions if you really, truly plan to make 600 rwhp. That is a LOT of power. It's not very hard to make 400-450 rwhp with a naturally aspirated, stock bottom end engine but to make 500-600 reliable rwhp takes a lot of money. If you really want to and can afford to make that much power look into increasing the displacement and spraying it. Great NA power and insane power on the bottle.
12 bolt or 9" No posi for a DD.
Torque Arm/DS Loop
Lower Control Arms
Adj Panhard Rod
Spings/Shocks
Rims/Tires
Air Lid
Headers/Catback
LS6 Intake (if pre 01)
Clutch/Convertor
Heads/Cam/Pulley
Tune
Fuel Pump/Injectors
Forced Induction
Tune
Sweet hood
Torque Arm/DS Loop
Lower Control Arms
Adj Panhard Rod
Spings/Shocks
Rims/Tires
Air Lid
Headers/Catback
LS6 Intake (if pre 01)
Clutch/Convertor
Heads/Cam/Pulley
Tune
Fuel Pump/Injectors
Forced Induction
Tune
Sweet hood
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 337
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From: Michigan
Originally Posted by Keenov
12 bolt or 9" No posi for a DD.
Torque Arm/DS Loop
Lower Control Arms
Adj Panhard Rod
Spings/Shocks
Rims/Tires
Air Lid
Headers/Catback
LS6 Intake (if pre 01)
Clutch/Convertor
Heads/Cam/Pulley
Tune
Fuel Pump/Injectors
Forced Induction
Tune
Sweet hood
Torque Arm/DS Loop
Lower Control Arms
Adj Panhard Rod
Spings/Shocks
Rims/Tires
Air Lid
Headers/Catback
LS6 Intake (if pre 01)
Clutch/Convertor
Heads/Cam/Pulley
Tune
Fuel Pump/Injectors
Forced Induction
Tune
Sweet hood
Originally Posted by Orange Terror
Keenov's pretty much got it all there. All I'd add is that with an '02 you should have an ls6 intake, when you go to forced induction, might want to go to an LSX intake. With forced induction, spray is on demand but you have to fill the bottle, with a blower or turbo, its there all the time. Personally, I'd start with a lid and a K&N filter, a tune, and a catback. Go from there.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2005
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Thanks guys for the advice (btw - it is a 6 speed 
... auto's just aren't as much fun 
).
That Corsa isn't a true dual, but the sound range from idle to full RPM sounds exactly like what I want. The 600rwhp is a few years down the road dream, but I'd like to build so that I don't have to chop out parts becuase I didn't get something heavy duty enough. Can anyone reccomend a place to get a 9" from, as well as advice on a LSD / locker / e-locker, and what isn't overkill for a drive shaft upgrade (brands, vendors, spline, etc - I might be an engineer, but I'm an EE, not a MechE, so I'm finding some of the lingo and gearing stuff confusing)? Poking around I've heard Moser and Stange thrown about a bit and quality issues w/ the Moser... still comming to grips with the idea of putting a FORD part in my car!
... auto's just aren't as much fun ). That Corsa isn't a true dual, but the sound range from idle to full RPM sounds exactly like what I want. The 600rwhp is a few years down the road dream, but I'd like to build so that I don't have to chop out parts becuase I didn't get something heavy duty enough. Can anyone reccomend a place to get a 9" from, as well as advice on a LSD / locker / e-locker, and what isn't overkill for a drive shaft upgrade (brands, vendors, spline, etc - I might be an engineer, but I'm an EE, not a MechE, so I'm finding some of the lingo and gearing stuff confusing)? Poking around I've heard Moser and Stange thrown about a bit and quality issues w/ the Moser... still comming to grips with the idea of putting a FORD part in my car!
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From: The other, other, other A-Town, NM
It sounds like you've been doing your research, which is very good and very rare for a newbie. Everyone has given some really good ideas, and always take into account that you will spend more money than you think because little stuff always comes up. For example, you buy your SFC but forget to add in the cost of welding.
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From: Michigan
Originally Posted by Delta_2_4
... still comming to grips with the idea of putting a FORD part in my car!
IMO. 
TECH Enthusiast
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From: CT
What ever happened to fixing parts after they break? A 12 bolt or 9" is big $$ right off the bat. Here's my .02 Lid, headers/Y-pipe, cat back, clutch, cam. If you want 600HP big steps and lots of money are needed from the begining. Take a ride in a 400-450 RWHP F bod and see if thats enough for ya. Good luck
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From: Michigan
Originally Posted by T-maxx
What ever happened to fixing parts after they break? A 12 bolt or 9" is big $$ right off the bat. Here's my .02 Lid, headers/Y-pipe, cat back, clutch, cam. If you want 600HP big steps and lots of money are needed from the begining. Take a ride in a 400-450 RWHP F bod and see if thats enough for ya. Good luck
11 Second Club
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From: loudoun county,va
Its too early for me to have a headache.......
to everyone that said he should go with the 12bolt.... you are WRONGE
12 bolts are for AUTOS... they can simply not take the abuse that a 600 hp M6 with a seriouse clutch will dish out, congradulations you just recomended he take 2500 bucks and light it on fire.
You have obvously NEVER installed a 9" it bolts up just as easy as the 12 bolt. I know... you see i have installed several of both... Please do not offer advise if you dont know what your talking about....
see my sig? theres a moser 9" in her smiling at a 4500 rpm transbrake launch..
REAL muscle car builders know to use the strongest parts they can...
as for making 600rwhp it will cost about 30k to 1. do it right 2. have a car that can handle it.
if your seriouse, then bullit proof your drivetrain first....
FAB9 9" rear. detroit locker, 33 spline axles
denny's nitrous ready drive shaft
RAM VDS clutch w/ steel fly wheel
Viper internals for your T56
1/2 inch extended wheel studs....
do that and it will handle most anything you can throw at it.
after that its time to build a suspention that will plant your power to the ground...
to everyone that said he should go with the 12bolt.... you are WRONGE
12 bolts are for AUTOS... they can simply not take the abuse that a 600 hp M6 with a seriouse clutch will dish out, congradulations you just recomended he take 2500 bucks and light it on fire.
Originally Posted by LS1_Face
IMO i would opt for a Moser 12 bolt because it is a direct bolt in unlike the 9''.
Also Orange Terror is right... Who wants to put a Ford part on a real muscle car anyways?
REAL muscle car builders know to use the strongest parts they can...
as for making 600rwhp it will cost about 30k to 1. do it right 2. have a car that can handle it.
if your seriouse, then bullit proof your drivetrain first....
FAB9 9" rear. detroit locker, 33 spline axles
denny's nitrous ready drive shaft
RAM VDS clutch w/ steel fly wheel
Viper internals for your T56
1/2 inch extended wheel studs....
do that and it will handle most anything you can throw at it.
after that its time to build a suspention that will plant your power to the ground...