im not new to the whole fbody thing. this is my second camaro. what i have is a 99 Z28 with 2.73 gears. the car is stock with low miles. i just put a whisper lid on it. what im wanting to do with the car is make it a roll racing car. im pretty much 1/4 mile guy so im not up on the role racing scene. i want to pretty much destroy everything on the road. im thinking about doing all the normal stuff like headers and dumped exhaust. i got the lid already. i put LCA and a tranny mount on it just because i had them. would an 04 ls6 cam be a wise choice for power. i know its alot of work but i think it might be a wise choice. also, what are good tires for roll racing? should i keep the cast iron drive shaft or find an alluminum one? any help would be nice. i am going to keep the tranny stock untill she goes.

 

Just beef up your engine and exhaust then get a T-Rex and a 250 shot.

 

rotfl

 

well tryin to make a auto a roll racing "monster" isnt that wise of a choice. ....considering when u said 273's that u meant ur car was a A4...manual cars are much better for that...more gears etc ..and ull never be able to beat everything on the road...there is always someone faster..and there is a some stickys on the top u might wanna read...

 

dont all ls1 cars have a aluminum drive shaft?

 

roll racing is about HP and that's about it.

Unless you are roll racing from 5mph or similar tyres and suspension will have little affect on performance. You're not all that likely to be spinning the wheels at 40-50mph take offs. Any how DR's would still be a good choice, but keep them aired up a little more as you want to reduce frictional drag.

If you plan to run to high speeds, then smoothing out the aerodynamics, lowering that car and adding an under car diffuser will all help.

You're going to want a stall, minimal probably 3500rpm but depending on what sort of cam you go for a 4000+rpm maybe better. Speak to Fuddle Racing or Yank Converters.

A 2.73 rear won't give you the best "in-gear" accelaration, but it does allow 158mph in D/3rd so you won't loose much time shifting. Also it doesn't suffer from the dead spots like the optional 3.23 geared cars do. This IMO makes it good for roll racing (as long as you pick your starting speeds correctly!!!!).

Optional gears like 3.42 or 3.73 may be a benefit and perhaps a requirement if you go for a wild cam.

As a lot of time is lost on shifting you'll also want a shift kit, the modified Trans-go one is popular. You'll also need a tranny cooler as well.

Normal bolt on's are also going to be needed. Long tube headers, ORY and a good catback will do fine and combine these with a LS6 intake manifold (stock on 01/2 cars) and a ported stock throttle body. You'll also want a new air box lid (TSP or SLP). And the FTRA (Fast Toys Ram Air) kit would probably be worth while.

Pulleys and an electric water pump may also be of benefit, although if plan to spend a lot of time at high speeds I'd not go for the electric water pump as it will make your engine run hotter if you are spending a lot of tim in the higher rpms at speed.

You then want a cam, something pretty wild IMO. The LS6 is far too tame like a fluffy bunny. TSP and Thunder Racing offer some good cams.

I'd probably look at a minimal of the Thunder Racing Trak cam and the TSP MS3. The T-Rex may be an option but it really is a monster. A set of heads like TSP's CNC LS6 heads would also help out in the HP department and are great value at under $1000. You'll need an install kit for the cam which will upgrade your valve gear. You'll also need to upgrade your fuel system, well injectors at least.

Then you want to look at a nitrous setup with all the safety features. And aim to run a minimal of a 100 shot, although 150 is pretty common and there are plenty running 200 shots on stock internals. But you probably are on borrowed time here.

Finally you'll need a darn good tune and get the engine running sweet, you can then mess about with raising the rpm limiter and shift points as well as reprogramming the electric fan setting and removing torque management.

Weight reduction will also be of benefit.

Best thing have a look at some of the sponsors websites and see what parts are on offer and what sort of prices they are.

 

yes, in fact, if you want to make your car really fast you should probably get rid of it. they love to bend if you put, say, 500hp to it, and that'll cause a mess. you may wanna invest in carbon fiber (thunderracing has it i believe) because if it shatters, it doesn't take your car with it. also, i think it's good for 5% of your total power transferred to the ground (i.e. if your car makes 400hp, it's a 20hp gain [400 x .05 = 20]).

 

That's not true at all. Only cars optioned with GU5 (IE Not his if it's a 2.73 auto) came with the optional aluminum driveshaft.

 

as in roll racing you mean like a 45 mph punch or something right? well if so **** the suspension get lowering springs if anything. but go for lid catback headers etc. and if u have an a4 deffinalty a stall. and a 100-150 shot and ull be set. and as far as the ls6 cam if that will work you should be able to just do a swap and upgrade the oil pump and timing chain, and pushrods

 

u sure? i bought an aluminum driveshaft for my 3.4L off a Z28 camaro. when i was purchasing it, i was informed all LS1's had it.

someone clarify.

i have an auto with 2.73's. i'll have to check...i'll tell ya what though the gas pedal likes to vibrate when you slowly take off...

 

The GU5 and GU6 cars came with aluminum drive shafts (3.23 and 3.42)

the GU2's didnt (2.72)

 

If I were you I'd tell the locals that "roll racing is for ricers, meet me at the track".

Build the car up for the 1/4 and run it at the track. Much safer and not illegal. Don't know what your laws are, but street racing here became a felony about 2 years ago.

 

alright i stand corrected. what did the 2.73 auto's come with then, a 1 piece steel? if that's true that'll explain why my pedal vibrates on light acceleration.

i find that funny...they give the m6's and 3.23 cars aluminums when they are more powerful and they give steels to the weakest ones...

 

Well the aluminum ones are more expensive

 

You should get some V-tec

 

doesn't make 'em better. silver bullets are more expensive but if you get shot with one over a normal bullet, you won't know the difference

unless you're a werewolf

what an awful analogy

 

An A4 car will not ever make the best roll race car, but my suggestion, go with a larger stall (4000k 2.5 STR) full bolt ons, H/C, and DR's. You'll be able to hold your own pretty well, but your advantage is from a dig.

Uhh, I cant roll until at least 40 or 50 MPH, I have brand new 555's, and some suspension work and with the mods I have I can't hook up until those speeds, so if he does the things you suggest, (much more aggressive H/C package than what I have) tires and suspension still play a relatively large role.

 

Doesnt a big stall slow you down on the top end?

 

Not that I'm aware of, but to go from a roll in an auto, the only chance A4's have is to get in their powerband fast, or else its just playing catch up, and thats a hard game to play for the guy behind.

 

how does keeping you in your powerband slow you down?