What should be my next mod?
#1
Staging Lane
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What should be my next mod?
Now I have a MagnaFlow cat-back and just a Lid.
This is what I'll be thinking of
-LTs (expensive, must have fully functional cats)
-LS6 intake
-BBK TB
Where would I find more horses? Best spent money?
This is what I'll be thinking of
-LTs (expensive, must have fully functional cats)
-LS6 intake
-BBK TB
Where would I find more horses? Best spent money?
#2
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Originally Posted by kaell
Now I have a MagnaFlow cat-back and just a Lid.
This is what I'll be thinking of
-LTs (expensive, must have fully functional cats)
-LS6 intake
-BBK TB
Where would I find more horses? Best spent money?
This is what I'll be thinking of
-LTs (expensive, must have fully functional cats)
-LS6 intake
-BBK TB
Where would I find more horses? Best spent money?
Are you and M6 or A4? I've noticed that alot of the guys with autos say they see the biggest gains from a converter.
Personally, I would say your best bet powerwise would be either the LT's or LS6 intake. I did both at the same time and it really woke the car up.
Just out of curiousity, why do you need the cats? Emmision laws or personal preference?
#3
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First off, A4 or M6? What type of Hp are you looking for? Forced Air induction like a Procharger would get you way up there, but cost lots of $$$$$. Headers would be you best bet. I would get a tune if your not going to do heads and cam for a while. Underdrive pully and maybe a stall if your an Auto. That will start you off nicely.
#4
Staging Lane
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Oh sorry, M6, ofcourse maybe a 3.73 would be something to think about too? I need 6th for fast highway transports so a 4.10 I think is too much.
I need the cats for the emission tests. Sweden sucks
I'll be looking for about 380-390 crank HP in the end, taking one step at a time...
I need the cats for the emission tests. Sweden sucks
I'll be looking for about 380-390 crank HP in the end, taking one step at a time...
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Since its an M6, I would say that the LT's and the LS6 intake are a good place to start. Depending on what type of headers you get, most manufacturers offer a Y Pipe with high flow cats that keeps it street legal.
I dont know how much power was added HP wise when I put my headers/ory/ls6 intake on, but after reading on here, it could net you around 50 hp with both. Don't know how common that is, but its nice to think.
Also, the gears should also wake it up alot too. I have a set of 3.73's sitting in the shop that I'm thinking about slapping in the car.
I dont know how much power was added HP wise when I put my headers/ory/ls6 intake on, but after reading on here, it could net you around 50 hp with both. Don't know how common that is, but its nice to think.
Also, the gears should also wake it up alot too. I have a set of 3.73's sitting in the shop that I'm thinking about slapping in the car.
#6
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COuld Get your Self a Pully. As for Cats.. Your Actually doing yourself a Favor by keeping them on. AIR FLOW is To small to Notice. But the Rasp Will Set In
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#8
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Originally Posted by kaell
Oh sorry, M6, ofcourse maybe a 3.73 would be something to think about too? I need 6th for fast highway transports so a 4.10 I think is too much.
I need the cats for the emission tests. Sweden sucks
I'll be looking for about 380-390 crank HP in the end, taking one step at a time...
I need the cats for the emission tests. Sweden sucks
I'll be looking for about 380-390 crank HP in the end, taking one step at a time...
-new clutch: power is worthless if you can't use it
-LT's
-LS6 intake
-ported TB
-12-bolt/9-inch rear w/4.10's/4.11's
you'll be damn near 12.0 with drags on if you can drive.
you'll have easily 380-390 crank hp. if you want that to the wheels, a TR224 cam will get you there easily with a tune, even through a 12-bolt.
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
3.73's are WORTHLESS. you already have 3.42's. if you don't want 4.10's, don't waste your money. that being said, if you get 4.10's, your rear will explode. get these mods in this order for best results/smartest money spent:
-new clutch: power is worthless if you can't use it
-LT's
-LS6 intake
-ported TB
-12-bolt/9-inch rear w/4.10's/4.11's
you'll be damn near 12.0 with drags on if you can drive.
you'll have easily 380-390 crank hp. if you want that to the wheels, a TR224 cam will get you there easily with a tune, even through a 12-bolt.
-new clutch: power is worthless if you can't use it
-LT's
-LS6 intake
-ported TB
-12-bolt/9-inch rear w/4.10's/4.11's
you'll be damn near 12.0 with drags on if you can drive.
you'll have easily 380-390 crank hp. if you want that to the wheels, a TR224 cam will get you there easily with a tune, even through a 12-bolt.
There are a ton of members that run 3.73's and love them. They arent quite as steep as the 4.10's but they can still give you 2/10's. May not seem like alot to everybody, but 2/10's is a big difference when its a 12.8 instead of a 13.0.
I've also seen plenty of members running 4.10's with no problems other than traction. You might not be able to run DR's on the stock rear, but 4.10's dont guarantee a blown rear end.
#10
Tech Resident
two tenths for a $500 job is a ridiculous sum of money. it's a very poor investment no matter how you look at it.
as for a blown rear, if you put 4.10's in an M6 car and bring it to the track often, it will break. it may take 1 run. it may take 100 runs. eventually, the t-56 will have its way with our toothpick rear. that's why i'm saying, instead of spending $500 for gears and install, put that $500 towards a better rear. even a 12-bolt may not me enough in an M6 car. dana S60 would be nice...
as for a blown rear, if you put 4.10's in an M6 car and bring it to the track often, it will break. it may take 1 run. it may take 100 runs. eventually, the t-56 will have its way with our toothpick rear. that's why i'm saying, instead of spending $500 for gears and install, put that $500 towards a better rear. even a 12-bolt may not me enough in an M6 car. dana S60 would be nice...
#11
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I understand what you were saying but its all a matter of opinion. I paid 199.00 for my gears and am having them installed for 100 bucks. I have a hookup and everybody might not get this price, but its still not 500 bucks.
You also have to think, not all of us live too close to the track. Its a good hour and a half for me to get to any track. I thought 4.10's would be too much for the street, just for the simple fact that I wouldnt be able to hook and I'm not putting DR's on my car. So, to me, 3.73's made sense and I'll be happy with 2/10's out of them.
I'm not totally disagreeing with you or saying you're giving bad advice, but its coming off like its fact, and pretty much every mod that can be done to one of these cars is subjective and whether it was worth the money is total matter of opinion.
You also have to think, not all of us live too close to the track. Its a good hour and a half for me to get to any track. I thought 4.10's would be too much for the street, just for the simple fact that I wouldnt be able to hook and I'm not putting DR's on my car. So, to me, 3.73's made sense and I'll be happy with 2/10's out of them.
I'm not totally disagreeing with you or saying you're giving bad advice, but its coming off like its fact, and pretty much every mod that can be done to one of these cars is subjective and whether it was worth the money is total matter of opinion.
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Get the LT's with catted y to finish the exhaust part then do the LS6 intake and get your stock throttle body ported. Don't forget to do the free mods to free up some horses.
After all that save up for a rear and a cam swap. Don't worry about your clutch yet. Wait till it starts slipping. It will slip but wait to replace it until it does.
After all that save up for a rear and a cam swap. Don't worry about your clutch yet. Wait till it starts slipping. It will slip but wait to replace it until it does.