Camaroguy22

iTrader: (12)

Is an LS1 car 157K miles on the motor something to be very concerned with when purchasing a car?


Copied from below post for simplicity:

Basically the car is as follows:

99 Vette Coupe

C6 19 in Chrome Rims
Swapped M6 Tranny 40K miles.
New Rear end 10K miles
Full Z06 suspension and billstiens still in the box included with sale.
157K motor says it doesn't burn a drop of oil no problems with it
Only mod is a borla catback

13K

This guy is willing to sell at blue book, which hardly anybody else is. Most people have crack prices on their C5's. I found a similar year and mileage car for 17K

Rowdy94

iTrader: (13)

Let your ears and senses tell you...157K well cared for miles is nothing to worry about. Of course there will be more to replace if it hasnt already been done, but if the motor still runs smooth and strong and the trans shifts quickly and firmly I wouldnt worry.

Driving FaSSt

I say its not really the miles its how the miles were put on.

157K of ***** out all the time = Bad

157k of drivin normal = okay

99camarosupersport

iTrader: (6)

I have 14x,xxx runs like a dream. Just drive it and judge yourself, this isn't a question that can really be answered from guys that have never even saw the car.

ChocoTaco369

make sure you have enough money left over for a rebuild. if you can afford the car but can't afford to rebuilt it, look elsewhere i think. the car should be a low price, so you should set aside "just in case" money to compensate for the high miles/low price.

67Ranger

iTrader: (16)

if you can, do a compression and leakdown test, and see how that comes out.

Camaroguy22

iTrader: (12)

Thanks guys for all the advice

Basically the car is as follows:

99 Vette Coupe

C6 19 in Chrome Rims
Swapped M6 Tranny 40K miles.
New Rear end 10K miles
Full Z06 suspension and billstiens still in the box included with sale.
157K motor says it doesn't burn a drop of oil no problems with it
Only mod is a borla catback

13K

This guy is willing to sell at blue book, which hardly anybody else is. Most people have crack prices on their C5's. I found a similar year and mileage car for 17K

BrandonDrecksage

iTrader: (1)

just so your aware..almost everythig cost more for a vette than f body. it the engine goes..they charge more to drop it...headers are more..ect.

a same year fbody could probably be had for 5-7k...not sure if a fbody is your cup of tea though.

Camaroguy22

iTrader: (12)

I have been driving an LT1 F Body for five years now. I wanted to move on. I do see how posi units and stuff like that are insane. If the engine goes I would more then likely be replacing it myself with the help of some friends. The same exact parts for a vette as you stated are considerably more expensive.


I don't like the way most LS1 F Bodies look. I am a big fan of the SS and WS6 for simple sake of their apperance. However after looking a nice clean SS or WS6 is running in cost near vette territory.

BrandonDrecksage

iTrader: (1)

hmm...not trying to change your mind or anything, but i picked up my 01 ss with 50k miles on it for 15k. it was flawless and fully loaded. but it could be maybe my area has more..but i'd like a vette...but to find one with 50-70k on it..your looking at 22-26k

JerseyLS1TA

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't buy a car with that many miles for $13,000. My 31k mile 1999 T/A in mint shape only cost me $14,000. If it were me I would save up some more cash or get a small loan and get one with less miles.

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good man, cheaper insurance than a f-body, and its a VETTE...

Camaroguy22

iTrader: (12)

You really can't compare pricing of an F-Body to a Corvette. The Corvette starts off about twice as expensive.

However I am considering your last part. However for a lower mileage 99 I have seen some people selling them for 20-23K which is way out of my ballgame.

I am just curious if LS1 motors last that long so I don't have to plan on rebuilding the motor right away.

Camaroguy22

iTrader: (12)

I was pretty suprised that my insurance would only go up 29 bucks every 6 months going from a 94 Z28 Convert to a then quoted 97 Vette. Thats pretty insignificant.

Ell Ess Won

99 Z28 to a 99 C5 Vette would drop my insurance $10 a month.

I say buy it, and save money in case the engine goes.

BrandonDrecksage

iTrader: (1)

well..its flipping a coin..if they motor was taken care off...then your good to go..if it was eating to ****..you never know..it could last..it might not..I'd lean on the might now side and be careful...a rebuild isn't cheap. you may want to nip it in the but and but soem new piston..rings..ect and jsut build the bottom end with forged stuff..everything but the stock crank. jsut for piece of mind.

dug

iTrader: (10)

yeah, lowball him. 402's are getting cheaper these days.

777

iTrader: (21)

Think of it this way if it really bothers you. 13,000 - 17,000 = 4,000 (new forged engine) You will already have new tranny and rear-end so those are the major wear items. I would take it if it looks nice.

nickls1

iTrader: (2)

Yeah its the same for almost everywhere. The insurance companies use a software program that calculates how much they pay out on a claim for accidents involving certain cars, how often they crash, how bad people are injured. It boils down to how much they pay out for claims though. There are probably a lot more people out driving f bodies like ******** cause more people can afford them. While the typical old guy drivers of corvettes who can afford them tend to baby their cars more often than not.


Oh yes and to stay on topic, do a compression and leakdown test like stated above and have a reputable mechanic go over the car. 157k easy miles on an ls1 is better than 10k miles with a jerk behind the wheel beating on the car every chance he got.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

Like mentioned, if you can get it to a mechanic and have a professional leak down/compression test done and it all checks out, there is no reason not to buy it and mod it. Most vettes are taken care of, I bet if you tore down the motor it wouldnt show much wear. Milage now a days isnt the best way to tell wear on a motor, leak down and compression tests are far more accurate.