150xxx. I dont burn an ounce of oil. I dont have one single leak. PP 10w30. Piston slap only for the first minute or so of cold idle. Mobile 1 and royal purple tend to have more piston slap issues. Plus price.. and shearing ...

 

How does the PP compare to the GC?

 

In my car the oil analysis with both oils are very close, with maybe a very slight edge to GC, but it's honestly too close to call. Keep in mind though, this was with the older green formula GC, I never did run the newest gold formula of GC.

 

So PP is way cheaper the GC so that makes my decision for me.

 

I get to change my oil in 337 miles...PP 5w30 I think is going in unless I can find some good specs on the Q stuff. Anyone even use Q in their cars?

 

I've never heard anything good (only one time bad) about Q, so I just stay away from it

 

What is PP? sorry didn't want to read all the pages but i noticed alot of guys are runnign 5w30 ????? On my 2000 SS the oil thing says 10w30 so I put in mobil 1 10w30. I also have some piston slap, there's an oil that will help aleviate that?

 

Pennzoil and Quaker State merged in the late 90's. Since then they were both bought up by another company. I believe Chevron? From what I understand Pennzoil and Quaker State are close to the same product.

 

PP is penzoil platinum

oh and I think my manual says 5w30 and 10w30 but the 5 covers the same range and I think goes colder. The manual's out in the car and I don't feel like getting it so i'm only 99% sure on this

 

so what is your oil of choice now?

 

I'm running Pennzoil Platinum now.

To answer the question above about the merger, it was Shell that bought out Quaker State and Pennzoil, however the three different brands of those oils still retain completely different technical teams, and are three completely different formulas of oil.

 

ehhh, I still like my royal purple

 

That's interesting. I have one UOA with Pennzoil, and am running Quaker State now. I want to get a few more hard trips through the gears before I send a sample off to compare the two.

What's your feelings about the lower levels of moly, zinc, and phosphorus?

 

The lower levels of zinc and phosphorus are not a problem with roller cam engines, they've upped the levels of other anti wear additives to compensate and they are doing a great job. For some reason the lower levels of zinc and phosphorus are a problem for flat tappet cam engines though, so the new SM rated oils are not recommended for use in them.

 

Do you know what the other additives are? I've seen some manufactures add moly to their formula. The only real problem I'm seeing with my UOA is high levels of copper (179 ppm).

A tech at Pennzoil explained to me , zinc and phosphorus make a "sacrificial" layer between engine components preventing metal to metal contact.

 

Moly is probably the most common one, but they also use boron, barium, sodium, calcium, magnesium and antimony. There are also other additives they put into the oil that a typical oil analysis won't show either, as oil companies are experimenting with new ways to reduce engine wear all the time. I've even heard of titanium being used as an anti wear additive!

 

do you use the pp over the gc because it cheaper?

 

Alot of info on here .

 

That wasn't my initial motivation for switching, no. I just simply wanted to try something different and with all the great oil analysis results other people were getting from PP I thought it would be a good choice. I also like the fact that PP is on GM's approved list for the 4718M specification for new Corvettes, so if I'm lucky enough to get a new C6 someday I could run Pennzoil Platinum without fear of warranty issues.

 

I've read articles about titanium being tested. The author sounded rather excited about there findings.
I didn't know calcium, and magnesium were anti wear additives. I thought they were detergents?