The perfect oil.
08-30-2007, 04:39 PM
#81
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
IF you're lucky!!
08-30-2007, 06:44 PM
#83
Originally Posted by Patman
Their racing oil is good, their street oil is not. It thins out way too quickly. I ran their 5w30 in my wife's car a while back and it thinned out horribly and showed higher engine wear too.
08-30-2007, 08:37 PM
#85
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Originally Posted by 2tone
Anyone have experience with AMSOIL 5W-40 synthetic?
08-30-2007, 08:41 PM
#86
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
That cSt is fine for the mid-atlantic summers. The lower temp/cold cSt is a little high for the winters (even the slightly mider than here mid-atlantic winters). I would think about changing it out for late fall-late winter, and using their ASL 5W-30, or Series 3000 5W-30 (if you're sold on Amsoil, and want to stick with it).
If you live in Tejas, the Amsoil Euro 5W-40 would be a great year-'round oil, as would the Red Line 5W-40 (at least for the southern parts of the Lone Star state, as the RL has UBER-high cSts).
If you live in Tejas, the Amsoil Euro 5W-40 would be a great year-'round oil, as would the Red Line 5W-40 (at least for the southern parts of the Lone Star state, as the RL has UBER-high cSts).
08-30-2007, 09:47 PM
#87
I'm using M1 5w-40 b/c the prev. owner used it, but I hate it. I think it may be contributing to my valvetrain noise. I have a stock ls1 with 116k, is pp 5w-30 right for my car(live in North Carolina),any thoughts?
08-31-2007, 11:40 AM
#90
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Originally Posted by hedsNcam88
I live in NY so what weight do you recommend? 5w-30?
So what I do is use a good 5W-30 (4 qts. of Red Line), and "thicken it up" by blending in 2 qts. of their 10W-40. I then top it off (as needed) with additional 10W-40 for the duration of the OCI.
If the OCI is mainly going to be during the winter, then I would stick with any of the good 5W-30s ONLY.
BTW; the Pennzoil Platinum looks to be the bargain of the century, and if Patman's UOA comes back with great results, all of us high buck, "boutique oil" users are gonna look like blithering IDIOTS!!
08-31-2007, 04:39 PM
#92
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I run GC mainly but there are times where it's out of stock so I just throw in Mobil1 0w-40 synthetic and my ride is fine. I've had great oil analysis with both oils mentioned, virtually no wear at all.
08-31-2007, 05:33 PM
#93
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Originally Posted by 71velle
Hey how does everyone here feel about royal purple yes no maybe not worth the money ??
I'm just now running my first cycle of royal purple in my ws6, from just asking around i found that it was well worth the money.
08-31-2007, 09:34 PM
#94
Originally Posted by CALL911
Try a search on this as it has been talked about and discussed about a million times on here.
My 2 cents is if you have under 100,000 miles, go with a synthetic blend of 5w-30 (Mobil 1 or Royal Purple). If you are over 100,000 miles I would stick with a non synthetic blend such as Valvoline or equivilant. After 100,000 miles, if you go with synthetic, plan on having some leaks.
As for the pressure, try a good oil filter such as a Mobil 1, or at least a Delco. Stay away from Frams or cheep filters. I gained 10-15 psi by changing the oil filter from a Fram that my car came with, to a AC Delco one.
As long as your oil pressure doesn't fall below 20 at warm idle, and hits at least 50 at WOT, you should be alright. However the LS1's have been known to have lots of bad sending units, so if you see low oil pressure, it could just be from that.
Again, if you try a search, you will find a plethera of info on all of this. I just pretty much summed it up for you.
My 2 cents is if you have under 100,000 miles, go with a synthetic blend of 5w-30 (Mobil 1 or Royal Purple). If you are over 100,000 miles I would stick with a non synthetic blend such as Valvoline or equivilant. After 100,000 miles, if you go with synthetic, plan on having some leaks.
As for the pressure, try a good oil filter such as a Mobil 1, or at least a Delco. Stay away from Frams or cheep filters. I gained 10-15 psi by changing the oil filter from a Fram that my car came with, to a AC Delco one.
As long as your oil pressure doesn't fall below 20 at warm idle, and hits at least 50 at WOT, you should be alright. However the LS1's have been known to have lots of bad sending units, so if you see low oil pressure, it could just be from that.
Again, if you try a search, you will find a plethera of info on all of this. I just pretty much summed it up for you.
why would it create more leaks?
09-01-2007, 02:33 AM
#97
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http://www.youroil.net/
Is one company but i haven't used them yet
To anything thinking of using the oil additives read this
http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance...html#SLICK_010
Is one company but i haven't used them yet
To anything thinking of using the oil additives read this
http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance...html#SLICK_010
09-05-2007, 11:13 AM
#98
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just subscribing because im interested in patman's oil test.
also, anyone know if 0w40 mobil 1 will be ok for florida? it doesnt get very cold down here, if its extremely freezing it will get in the mid 30's at night and in the early morning. thanks.
also, anyone know if 0w40 mobil 1 will be ok for florida? it doesnt get very cold down here, if its extremely freezing it will get in the mid 30's at night and in the early morning. thanks.
09-05-2007, 05:58 PM
#99
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Mobil 1 0W40 would be perfect for florida..im currently living in Orlando..idk where stuart is...but The 0w40 would be a great choice...It will flow very well at lower temperatures...but will stay a 40 weight once its up to operating temperature..
09-05-2007, 07:16 PM
#100
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Originally Posted by Travis99LS1
Mobil 1 0W40 would be perfect for florida..im currently living in Orlando..idk where stuart is...but The 0w40 would be a great choice...It will flow very well at lower temperatures...but will stay a 40 weight once its up to operating temperature..