The perfect oil.
09-18-2007, 04:34 PM
#121
Originally Posted by EchoMirage
i use GC. NO leaks, NO burning, doesnt use a drop, even after about 10 autoxs. it also quieted down the infamous LS1 tick. dont let others bullshit you. lots of LS1s burn oil, no matter what they run. mine never did, not a drop at all.
09-18-2007, 04:51 PM
#122
Originally Posted by EchoMirage
i use GC. NO leaks, NO burning, doesnt use a drop, even after about 10 autoxs. it also quieted down the infamous LS1 tick. dont let others bullshit you. lots of LS1s burn oil, no matter what they run. mine never did, not a drop at all.
09-18-2007, 07:41 PM
#123
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After reading so many good things about the GC over at SVTPerformance.com I used it in my '01 Cobra for quite a while. I never really had any problems and that DOHC modular motor spun to 7k (10k+ on accident once...don't ask). I always hated how much noise came from the engine bay in that car though and when I couldn't get ahold of GC, one day, put in Royal Purple. It was the regular street blend but it quieted down that motor like you would not believe. It was like driving an old 4 banger compared to a new lexus. Ever since then I've stayed away from the GC. I never had issues but I figure if it's making that much noise compared to an oil that's supposed to be of similar viscosity then something isn't right.
I've been more than happy with RP 5W-30 in my LT1 but never knew of the race blend until recently. I did see a complaint about the street blend thinning out quickly? I would just switch to the race blend though I noticed the nearly $13/quart price tag. I try not to run the crap out of my car THAT often. What's "wrong" with the street blend?
I've been more than happy with RP 5W-30 in my LT1 but never knew of the race blend until recently. I did see a complaint about the street blend thinning out quickly? I would just switch to the race blend though I noticed the nearly $13/quart price tag. I try not to run the crap out of my car THAT often. What's "wrong" with the street blend?
Last edited by 1997compT/A; 09-18-2007 at 07:53 PM.
09-18-2007, 11:35 PM
#125
Originally Posted by 1997compT/A
After reading so many good things about the GC over at SVTPerformance.com I used it in my '01 Cobra for quite a while. I never really had any problems and that DOHC modular motor spun to 7k (10k+ on accident once...don't ask). I always hated how much noise came from the engine bay in that car though and when I couldn't get ahold of GC, one day, put in Royal Purple. It was the regular street blend but it quieted down that motor like you would not believe. It was like driving an old 4 banger compared to a new lexus. Ever since then I've stayed away from the GC. I never had issues but I figure if it's making that much noise compared to an oil that's supposed to be of similar viscosity then something isn't right.
I've been more than happy with RP 5W-30 in my LT1 but never knew of the race blend until recently. I did see a complaint about the street blend thinning out quickly? I would just switch to the race blend though I noticed the nearly $13/quart price tag. I try not to run the crap out of my car THAT often. What's "wrong" with the street blend?
I've been more than happy with RP 5W-30 in my LT1 but never knew of the race blend until recently. I did see a complaint about the street blend thinning out quickly? I would just switch to the race blend though I noticed the nearly $13/quart price tag. I try not to run the crap out of my car THAT often. What's "wrong" with the street blend?
09-19-2007, 02:42 PM
#127
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Originally Posted by Asmodeus
RP made mine quieter too. It was the XPR racing formula though, 10w40. The difference between it and the race oil is I believe, the addiitive package, not sure if they are a different base oil. I will probably move to RP XPR 5w30 next oil change since my oil pressure is way high, even in the heat. 100+ degrees, driving it hard, and hot idle pressure is 50 psi. WoT pressure is close to 80. It's costing a few ponies, and is more than needed. Especially with the cooler weather coming.
09-20-2007, 11:35 AM
#129
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This is the first I have heard of Mobil 1 30W's being the grade 3 dino juice, I thought they were suing Castrol Syntec for false advertising because Syntec was really grade 3 conventional not synthetic.
This worries me because I ran a 2001 E-350 with a 5.4 mod motor 385,000 miles (and it still ran perfect when I sold the business) using Mobil1 15-50 in central Florida and now use Mobil1 10-30W since I've moved to WV for the added flow in winter.
I can not speak for(I guess) the 10-30W Mobil1 but their 15-50W is (or at least was) great stuff.
I hope you are wrong about the 30W Mobil oils.
This worries me because I ran a 2001 E-350 with a 5.4 mod motor 385,000 miles (and it still ran perfect when I sold the business) using Mobil1 15-50 in central Florida and now use Mobil1 10-30W since I've moved to WV for the added flow in winter.
I can not speak for(I guess) the 10-30W Mobil1 but their 15-50W is (or at least was) great stuff.
I hope you are wrong about the 30W Mobil oils.
01-15-2008, 03:38 PM
#133
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Royal purple seems to have very few complaints. I know I've ran 5w-30 and 0w-30 RP with no problems. Probably gonna switch back to 5w-30 this spring.
01-15-2008, 05:03 PM
#134
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01-16-2008, 12:09 AM
#135
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Try a search on this as it has been talked about and discussed about a million times on here.
My 2 cents is if you have under 100,000 miles, go with a synthetic blend of 5w-30 (Mobil 1 or Royal Purple). If you are over 100,000 miles I would stick with a non synthetic blend such as Valvoline or equivilant. After 100,000 miles, if you go with synthetic, plan on having some leaks.
As for the pressure, try a good oil filter such as a Mobil 1, or at least a Delco. Stay away from Frams or cheep filters. I gained 10-15 psi by changing the oil filter from a Fram that my car came with, to a AC Delco one.
As long as your oil pressure doesn't fall below 20 at warm idle, and hits at least 50 at WOT, you should be alright. However the LS1's have been known to have lots of bad sending units, so if you see low oil pressure, it could just be from that.
Again, if you try a search, you will find a plethera of info on all of this. I just pretty much summed it up for you.
My 2 cents is if you have under 100,000 miles, go with a synthetic blend of 5w-30 (Mobil 1 or Royal Purple). If you are over 100,000 miles I would stick with a non synthetic blend such as Valvoline or equivilant. After 100,000 miles, if you go with synthetic, plan on having some leaks.
As for the pressure, try a good oil filter such as a Mobil 1, or at least a Delco. Stay away from Frams or cheep filters. I gained 10-15 psi by changing the oil filter from a Fram that my car came with, to a AC Delco one.
As long as your oil pressure doesn't fall below 20 at warm idle, and hits at least 50 at WOT, you should be alright. However the LS1's have been known to have lots of bad sending units, so if you see low oil pressure, it could just be from that.
Again, if you try a search, you will find a plethera of info on all of this. I just pretty much summed it up for you.
01-16-2008, 02:11 PM
#137
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I ran a full syn on my 120k LT1 with no problems. The reason you will notice more leaks is because the additives clean up the old gunk and stuff that was or is blocking any leakes from occuring.
01-16-2008, 08:11 PM
#138
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what's the matter, unit? you don't trust me? 
no, mobil 1 IS shittier than it used to be. the 30 weights aren't even full synthetics anymore. they were ALL full synthetics when mobil owned them. not only did they completely change the base stock, they reformulated the oils into cheaper formulas. mobil 1 is vastly shittier than it used to be.
no, mobil 1 IS shittier than it used to be. the 30 weights aren't even full synthetics anymore. they were ALL full synthetics when mobil owned them. not only did they completely change the base stock, they reformulated the oils into cheaper formulas. mobil 1 is vastly shittier than it used to be.
I have used it regularly since new also....'99. I used Valvoline a couple times when I had to. 