what mod(s) to do next?
05-01-2007, 03:15 AM
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what mod(s) to do next? i have an A4 98 trans am with an slp lid, flowtech cutout, B&M tranny cooler, and a 3400 fuddle stall. what would be another good mod to shave a couple of tenths off in the 1/4? thanks
05-01-2007, 04:41 AM
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go w/ 3.73s, or get a used 3.42 carrier from someone in the for sale section, after that mod ull prolly need some good tires, some ET streets will do it for u. another thing u could possibly do urself is port ur TB.
after ur done w/ those mods if ur going the N/A route, save up for a used LS6 intake($250-$300) then a cam/heads combo.
if not then a 150F2 TNT kit will do the trick also
i prefer the N/A route(always "on" power)
after ur done w/ those mods if ur going the N/A route, save up for a used LS6 intake($250-$300) then a cam/heads combo.
if not then a 150F2 TNT kit will do the trick also
i prefer the N/A route(always "on" power)
05-01-2007, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by mcamarols1
go w/ 3.73s, or get a used 3.42 carrier from someone in the for sale section, after that mod ull prolly need some good tires, some ET streets will do it for u. another thing u could possibly do urself is port ur TB.
after ur done w/ those mods if ur going the N/A route, save up for a used LS6 intake($250-$300) then a cam/heads combo.
if not then a 150F2 TNT kit will do the trick also
i prefer the N/A route(always "on" power)
after ur done w/ those mods if ur going the N/A route, save up for a used LS6 intake($250-$300) then a cam/heads combo.
if not then a 150F2 TNT kit will do the trick also
i prefer the N/A route(always "on" power)
05-01-2007, 08:10 AM
#4
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better gears, preferably 3.7, a 90/90 fast setup, finish up your exhaust with some long tubes and a nice ory. Beef up the suspension so you dont end up twisting her. Than get a nice heads and cam setup then pray your rear end plays nice and get yourself a new one.
05-01-2007, 12:04 PM
#6
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OMG, all these guys talking gears and they have M6 cars.
Don't listen to them, ICEMAN 31 (who has A4) is on the right path. Get the air in/out 1st.
Don't even do gears unless you visit the track often or if you have 2.73's.
Peace,
Craig.
Don't listen to them, ICEMAN 31 (who has A4) is on the right path. Get the air in/out 1st.
Don't even do gears unless you visit the track often or if you have 2.73's.
Peace,
Craig.
05-01-2007, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by CRAGER
OMG, all these guys talking gears and they have M6 cars.
Don't listen to them, ICEMAN 31 (who has A4) is on the right path. Get the air in/out 1st.
Don't even do gears unless you visit the track often or if you have 2.73's.
Peace,
Craig.
Don't listen to them, ICEMAN 31 (who has A4) is on the right path. Get the air in/out 1st.
Don't even do gears unless you visit the track often or if you have 2.73's.
Peace,
Craig.
$400+ for parts labor for 3.73s= up to .5 sec(est) depending on if u had 2.73s or 3.23s
or
$600+ for a nice set of headers and ORY=up to .5sec(est)
or
$2500+ for parts and labor= up to 1.5sec(est) depending on the set up u go with
i was just giving him the most cost effective upgrade for a lower et, he already has a stall, why not match it up w/ a good gear/tire combo for a
60ft??but what do i kno im just a M6 guy right
98BlackTransAM
ull see what im talking about Last edited by mcamarols1; 05-01-2007 at 06:22 PM.
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05-05-2007, 08:04 AM
#10
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Originally Posted by mcamarols1
most of my friends have A4s, and i asked them b4 if they noticed a bigger diffrence from going to a 3.73(some comming off a 2.73 & others off a 3.23), or from headers, or a lid, or something like that. they all said the gears really woke up the car.
$400+ for parts labor for 3.73s= up to .5 sec(est) depending on if u had 2.73s or 3.23s
or
$600+ for a nice set of headers and ORY=up to .5sec(est)
or
$2500+ for parts and labor= up to 1.5sec(est) depending on the set up u go with
i was just giving him the most cost effective upgrade for a lower et, he already has a stall, why not match it up w/ a good gear/tire combo for a 60ft??
but what do i kno im just a M6 guy right
98BlackTransAM ull see what im talking about
$400+ for parts labor for 3.73s= up to .5 sec(est) depending on if u had 2.73s or 3.23s
or
$600+ for a nice set of headers and ORY=up to .5sec(est)
or
$2500+ for parts and labor= up to 1.5sec(est) depending on the set up u go with
i was just giving him the most cost effective upgrade for a lower et, he already has a stall, why not match it up w/ a good gear/tire combo for a
60ft??but what do i kno im just a M6 guy right
98BlackTransAM
ull see what im talking aboutAfter a little while I went from 2.73 gears to 3.73 gears. Out of the few mods I did the gears didn't seem to do crap except from running my gas down fast.
At 2,000rpm's in "D" (4th gear) A4 w/2.73's is at 80mph, with 3.73's you're at 58mph. Very big difference, M6 cars have it easy with 2 overdrive gears (5th & 6th).
98BlackTransAm - You just need to get the air in/out first. Then a stall, and maybe gears but don't go crazy. If you have to do it then do not go over 3.42's IMHO.
Peace,
Craig.
05-05-2007, 10:50 AM
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i'd say get a transgo shift kit and Sonnax servo's. 3:42 gears and beef up the suspension to help the power get to the ground. something cheap would be to P&P the throttle body. and LT headers is always a win.
05-06-2007, 06:54 AM
#13
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LT's would be my next mod. I have hit 1.69 60's and low 12's with 3.23's and a 3500 stall so I wouldn't bother with gears "if" you have 3.23's. On the other hand my buddy has a 98 Formula with the same mods as me but insert a 3000 stall and 2.73's and his is way slower off the line (1.9 60's).
I would then consider 3.42's as the next mod but I would still do LT's first.
P.S. If you're not sure which gears you have then open the drivers door and look for a white sticker on the inside. If one of the codes on that sticker is GU2 then you have 2.73's. If the code is GU5 then you have 3.23's. It'll be one or the other. Good luck
I would then consider 3.42's as the next mod but I would still do LT's first.
P.S. If you're not sure which gears you have then open the drivers door and look for a white sticker on the inside. If one of the codes on that sticker is GU2 then you have 2.73's. If the code is GU5 then you have 3.23's. It'll be one or the other. Good luck
05-06-2007, 07:01 AM
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You need to have a long term goal with the car before you just start throwing parts at it or you will end up spending money over again to get something different.
Do you want major HP--Turbo/Supercharger? Cost is high upfront, but comes out to the same as a good H/C set up and produces way more rwhp.
Do you want a H/C set up? If so throw some headers on there now. Also you can get a used 3.42 10 bolt for $100-$150. Just make sure you know if you have a 3 channel or 4 channel rear first.
N2O? kick *** on an auto car & cheap.
Do you want major HP--Turbo/Supercharger? Cost is high upfront, but comes out to the same as a good H/C set up and produces way more rwhp.
Do you want a H/C set up? If so throw some headers on there now. Also you can get a used 3.42 10 bolt for $100-$150. Just make sure you know if you have a 3 channel or 4 channel rear first.
N2O? kick *** on an auto car & cheap.