JUSTONY

iTrader: (1)

Ok, my overall goal is to make a 10 second / street driveable car. Im not talking about a daily driver, but I want something I can go cruising in on the weekends yet tear the track up with also. The only thing is that I want it to be all motor, and everyone that I talk to who is in the 10's is either Juiced or has Blower/Turbo. I want mine to be ALL motor. What is the best way to get there and is it going to take a complete engine rebuild with all forged parts?? I have also heard that you need to go with the LSX Block if you want to bore your LS1 over at all. So my main question is what is the best way to build this engine in the most affordable/reliable way?? I'm sure there are tons of people out there who fall under this category, it just seems that I have only talked to the people who fall under the Nitrous/Supercharged/Turbo category

MikeG

iTrader: (33)

There are plenty of people who have acheived this while retaining the stock bottom end, or shortblock.

These people usually have full bolt ons, a fairly aggressive heads/cam or cam only package, and a built drivetrain.

Do some reading up and searching on some of the forums on this site. You'll find all the info you'd ever need.

austin21

just go with a h/c car with some bad *** gears in the rear (i.e. 3.91, 4.10 ect...

JUSTONY

iTrader: (1)

I am putting the 4.10 in it this weekend and I am beefing up all the suspension and drivetrain, but I just didnt think I could get it extreme enough with H/C that it would put me into the 10's

Formula413

iTrader: (1)

I met a guy last weekend who runs mid tens all motor. Definitely not street friendly though. Compression is too high to run just 93 octane for starters. Not a stock block either. I've read a bunch of threads like this about how to get huge power without forced induction or nitrous, they all seem to come down to A: It won't be very streetable, and B: It will cost a ton. Somebody said something on here to the affect of "FI/Spray is better for practical purposes, NA is better for your pride." He obviously had a point, because lots of people ask how to get big numbers on just the motor, even when it is far from ideal for what they are trying to do.

TheSecretFormula

iTrader: (2)

Is it an A4 or M6 car? It is attainable on a stock bottom end with an aggressive heads and cam setup however you will need a rear that will handle very hard launches, as in order to get in the 10's on just a heads/cam/bolton setup you will need a full suspension capable of putting everything the motor is making to the ground. In an A4 you will need a stall and short gearing 4:10's or so and in an M6 you will need a good clutch and 4:10-4:56 gears and of course some ET streets at the very least. Weight reduction may also be needed.

GTObsessor

iTrader: (2)

possible but its gonna take a pretty much drag-oriented setup. Full suspension, a mean heads/cam combo with EVERY best supporting mod incuding 90/90 intake setup. I'm hoping you're an auto car, if not, you may want to consider the swap with a 4000ish stall (you're cam's gonna have to be heuge anyways). After that, a strong rear end (that stock ten bolt will NOT handle lauches on ETs for long at ALL), some tall gears (not too tall or you'll run out of gear before you cross the line) and some sticky MTs are in order. Like others have said, you may have to drop some weight as well to meet your goal. Carpet weighs A LOT! heh. Read the "So You Wanna Be Fast" sticky too. Patrick G can help you out once you're ready to buy a cam in specing it out to your needs.

aaron653

iTrader: (1)

408+tranny+stall+rearend+gears+tires+suspension+we ight reduction= I would think that that would give you 10's

Ruckus46Gt

iTrader: (9)

i know of an auto that runs 10s with the stock bottom and and still has a 10 bolt

1998SilverZ28

I would have to say get an LSX block or the LS2. Do an aggressive head and cam package on it with the new GM LQ9 heads and have them ported and take them to at least stage II maybe III if you want to get really good power. DO a 90/90 setup on the top with true dule and headers. Remember, your engine is an air pump, the more air you get in, the more power you will make. Stock LQ9's flow at 330 at a .600 lift, ported with bigger valves, they will flow over 360 easy. Put in an aggressive cam, new rear end, don’t bother with stock, get a 9 inch back there with 410s. And last but not least, tune it. That engine costs around 8G's to build (I built one at school with my teacher, almost the exact same as mentioned), its pricey but worth it, we were pushing over 800 HP NA. After the turbos went on, however, we were at 1350 hp. Funny thing is, this engine went into a Hummer H2 haha! Anyway, that should get you at least close to 10's and still just barley be "streetable".

Justin01SS

iTrader: (15)

I've been in a few 10 second cars that you could call streetable that are on all motor. With that being said, none of them are very fun to street around in. That kind of power through say a 6.0L block, good flowing heads, large cam or semi large cam, full bolt ons, suspension, etc just doesnt make for a car you want to drive up to the store to grab a carton of milk. If you want to street around in something that rips off tens at the track, get a blower or nitrous.

I dont think many people quite get the concept on what a 10 second car is. Saying you want a 10 second N/A car is one thing, having one is a whole other issue. The upkeep is expensive, parts arent cheap, and they are not smooth at all. Again, I would spray it or put on a blower, or build something in the 11.50 range and be happy with that.