after i installed my slp lid i connected everything back. i started the car and it ran like ****. the car was idling as if it wasn't getting any air...like it was choking out. so i cut the car off instantly. looked under the hood to check everything and found nothing wrong. so i started the car again it and ran fine i took it for a test drive and no problems. Could it had been the mass airflow sensor making changes.. the car is running strong with no engine problems now..

 

Changing the lid wouldn't result in any ill effects.

 

Did you disconnect the battery before installing it? If so probably just relearning the idle.

 

+ 1 on the disconnecting of the battery

 

dont know why hed disconenct the battery to install an airlid.

 

any time you unplug any of the electrical connections you should unplug the battery.

Some times I don't have the tools with me to disconnect the battery, and Ive done plenty of plugging and unplugging with the battery still connected. Its just a good idea

 

 

yeah i did disconnect the battery. Guess that was the reason for the rough idle.

 

Because the directions to install just about everything say to DC the battery, I dont think Ive ever disconnected a battery for anything.

 

^^ Yeah I replaced my air freshner and it told me to disconnect the battery.

 

It is true that instructions for performing many seemingly non electrical tasks include removing the negative battery cable. I hardly ever do it myself. I was hooking up an amp cable in my Escort today, had to attach it to the positive terminal. I didn't have the right wrench handy to take off the negative terminal so like a lazy *** I just tried to avoid touching ground loosening the positive terminal. Still managed to graze a bracket of some sort, Fourth of July came early. No harm done, just a little sparkshow. I did unhook the battery to change the alternator though.

 

Yes the instructions for the SLP Lid state to disconnect the battery since you will have to unplug the electrical connections for the IAT and MAF sensors, then ultimately remove the IAT and MAF sensors from the OEM set-up and install onto the new lid.

When you reconnect the battery and start the car again - just let it idle for 10-15 minutes in order for the computer to re-learn again, and then it will be ok.

Now if the problem still persists (choking, sputtering, etc), then you may need to replace the IAT and MAF sensors as these may have been damaged (via handling - its easy to damage them) during the install. The cost for a new IAT sensor is cheap, but a new MAF will definitely put a dent in the pocketbook.

I didn't have any issues when I installed my SLP Lid, the engine ran perfectly after the install.

 

You know some times when i disconnect my battery. The car relearns how to idle but other times it does not whats the deal with that?

 

Ditto here on the battery/idle thing. I've left my foglights on a couple of times and come out to a completely dead battery. The 1st time I thought I burned something electrical out 'cuz the car was idling like crap. After a 15 minute trip to town and it was perfectly fine again.
Last time I did it, all I had to do was jump it and it idled perfectly right away. Go figure.

 

Starter , Alternator, maybe a tranny pull? Good god mark to self never buy a car from this guy... Electrical issues like a ****.

 

From me or the OP?

 

I'm guessing the other guy........

 

When disconnecting ANYTHING electrical on your car you should ALWAYS remove the negative terminal. My car did the same thing when I installed the SLP lid and smooth bellow, b/c I had to remove the MAF and IAT sensor from the stock intake system. But my car runs amazing now and haven't had any issues since.

 

haha i didint even disconnect the battery during my cam swap.

 

I swapped my TB and intake manifold without disconnecting the battery, and no problems