Gun5

iTrader: (37)

Car I just recently picked up has 93k on the body.. 39k on the crate motor from 05... he has been running 10-30 Mobile 1 since it was put it.. car has 45-50 warm idle and after I run the **** out of it - no smoke, leaks or anything.. he was doing 4500 mile changes I will probably do 4000 this change and switch to something cheaper hopefully..

BTW he hydrolocked it but hey I got the car for a tad under 7k new tranny in 05 to

xEzekial

I agree that people over-analyze this kind of stuff. I don't think it really makes a HUGE difference unless your car is a RACE car. If it's your daily driver to get back and forth to work, who cares. Just don't run Kangaroo gas-station brand conventional oil. If your f-body is built, force-inducted, juiced, and only sees drive-time on the track, I would say buy whatever performs the best. But unless you are Ricky Bobby on the commute to work, it's not going to make that big of a difference.

So next time I get behind you and say "Slingshot, engage..." I'm going to hold up an empty bottle of Mobil 1 as I pass you. And maybe some Fig Newtons too.

Hey does it make a difference where you buy your gas? I'm told BP is the best.

xEzekial

I wouldn't try to be cheap. Those engines are expensive. I change mine religiously at 2500 miles along with the filter. I mean yeah if you've got a Honda Accord, it's probably safe to leave the same filter on through two sets of oil, but you have to think about how hard most people drive cars like ours. It's not a midsize sedan. But hey if you baby it you might be alright, who knows.

FMX05

iTrader: (3)

To each his own with changing that early. If that is what you want to do, by all means. I just think changing synthetic that often is flushing $$$ down the drain.

Thanks to the guy that looked up the thread with all the viscosity facts and stuff. I couldn't get it to come up.

Also for the record, motorcycles are VERY sensitive to changes in oil brand/weight/type. The first thing I do on a 4 stroke Honda MX bike is drain out the Honda GN-4 (good oil) and change it for Honda HP trans oil (85w I believe). Shifts so much smoother....streetbikes are the same way, super sensitive, so you are correct there my friend.

Gun5

iTrader: (37)

well personally the car sees probably 15 WOT runs atm on the weekend.. and full boltons are going on next week.. so until I calm down with this new car it better have some good **** in it.. and being a mechanic i'm really **** on this stuff to begin with

LrngCrv

I have spun a rod bearing before on the new Mobil1 blend @ 120k miles. I have never used Mobil1 since. I have also had a different F-body over 250k miles w/o any engine damage.

Whether the differences are small or if I used a different oil the one car wouldn't have been damaged I don't know but it isn't a chance that I feel like taking if an expert on the subject says that one oil is a little better than another, I have no reason to not use the better oil.

Oh yeah, and I'm one of those guys that loves to change their oil. It never goes longer than 3k miles between oil changes. Sometimes I changed it at 2k. I just love the feel of my cars with fresh oil in them.

xEzekial

oh yeah? I know exactly what you mean. It seems like if you change your oil, fill up your gas tank, and wash your car inside and out, it always seems to perform a lot better. It's like the car is happy. lol

LS1crazy01

iTrader: (14)

Ha ha its true it always seems that it performs better LOL. Everytime I detail the engine compartment it seems to run better. It might be the fact that Im so tired after all the cleaning and I drive it it feels faster!

xEzekial

lol yeah ls1crazy, i detailed the engine compartment in my LT1 and evidentally thats all it took to stop grinding gears... lol


but to sum up everything in this thread, i think it's safe to say that dextron III ATF is the perfect engine lubrication solution. Why use conventional or synthetic motor oil to keep those 5.7 Liters of fury properly lubed? Stop conforming to society and use something original to get the job done!!!



The Answer to the Engine oil dilemma!!



Or if you want to be a real rebel, you can try Brake Fluid!

02 BLK WS6

iTrader: (11)

I run Valvoline Full Synthetic and change my oil every 2500 miles. My car is 1/2 track 1/2 cruiser, but when I am at the track it sees a lot of nitrous.

If you run your car hard, oil change intervals should be less. If you just DD you car with an occassional romp, then extended intervals are ok (especially with synthetic).

I have also heard when running synthetic to swap oil filters at 3k miles and top off oil level and go another 3k miles. I have never done this and recommend what I have stated above.

gold98Z28

iTrader: (7)

LMFAO oh now some poor kid is gonna go put trany fluid in his car and try to warrenty it after it ***** itself.lol would love to here the long term results.lol

Gun5

iTrader: (37)

I know what brands are good (CASTROL, MOBILE, AMSOIL) and what filters are good (WIX, DELCO, FRAM) (from reading here and going to automotive school)

But... on the whole conventional vs. synthetic thing which is better for a car that gets quiet a few WOT runs on the street

I go WOT around 90-110 times on a oil change (EST 9-10 a week).. (300 miles a week - 1200 miles a month) which means oil change every 2.5-3.5 months (3000 intervals)

Synthetic is great for long intervals.. at normal operating well I don't call my driving normal.. its all highway besides those city rompings so I'm still changing it at 3,000 regardless so should I still run synthetic? or a blend or what.. they sell 5QT blends at wal-mart for $11-12 now.. EXXON, VAVOLINE ECT

xEzekial

yeah. just me personally, i would rather spend $30 to change my oil and know beyond a reasonable doubt that my engine is not going to suffer from oil-related issues. Plus you get to honestly tell the guy that buys your car "Yeah I have changed the oil religiously at 3k miles with only Mobil1 synthetic." and that usually makes them feel better about buying your car.

FMX05

iTrader: (3)

Stay with a synthetic. It's just better...

And don't use a FRAM filter, lots of people on this board have had problems with them. I have personally never had problems with them in my other cars but I have seen some pictures on here that don't look so good. Apparently the filter medium (paper/carboard/glue inside) starts to turn into a sludge after a while. I switched to WIX or AC Delco myself.

tylerdj

iTrader: (31)

I was just about to say the same thing.

sroach20

iTrader: (31)

cut open, then compare a wix, fram, and ac delco oil filter. i guarantee you will only use wix after what you see of the other two.

FMX05

iTrader: (3)

If its good enough for NASCAR its good enough for me.

Morpheus

iTrader: (7)

You're gonna base what you put on your car for 3k plus miles on what Nascar uses for 500 miles?

FMX05

iTrader: (3)

It's not solely based on that, but you have to have noticed that WIX doesn't advertise at all hardly, and those engines get put through ~750 miles of pure hell. Cut one open like sroach20 said. It won me over.

tylerdj

iTrader: (31)

So because WIX doesn't advertise their not as good? WIX's oil filters are 100x better than the frams, don't base your decisions upon advertising, just cut them open and compare.

Also, Nascar does not use the same fram filters that are sold at walmart.