LT Pacesetter headers install...
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 27
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LT Pacesetter headers install... I definetly need headers, after hearing of all the power my stock manifolds are robbing my sprayed 98 Z28 of.
I was looking into Pacesetters, I hear they're the easiest to go in. I have a lot of questions though!
-Do I need anything besides the headers? Will the headers fit onto the stock exhaust Y pipe, or do I need more? What about the O2 sensors?
-Is this really something I could do on my own? I hear it is quite time-consuming, and requires a good level of mechanical skill. I can turn a wrench any day, but I'm not too advanced. The biggest thing I've done myself on my car so far is change an alternator and install the SLP cold air kit. If I take it to a shop, how much am I looking at for an install?
All input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
-Pyro
I was looking into Pacesetters, I hear they're the easiest to go in. I have a lot of questions though!
-Do I need anything besides the headers? Will the headers fit onto the stock exhaust Y pipe, or do I need more? What about the O2 sensors?
-Is this really something I could do on my own? I hear it is quite time-consuming, and requires a good level of mechanical skill. I can turn a wrench any day, but I'm not too advanced. The biggest thing I've done myself on my car so far is change an alternator and install the SLP cold air kit. If I take it to a shop, how much am I looking at for an install?
All input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
-Pyro
1. You will need a couple of extra things for the install. Most sites, such as speedinc.com, include gaskets, header bolts and o2 extension. If who ever you purchase them from doesnt include any of this items make sure you get them. The long tubes are longer so the o2 bung is farther away. The stock o2 are not long enough and need the extensions. You are going to need a aftermarket ypipe due to the long tubes collector being much lower.
2. You can definately do it on your own. Its not a complicated thing, and its preaty staight foward. The only real issue is clearance for long tubes to fit in. It may take you a few hours and you will probably try different ways, but they will eventually go in.
2. You can definately do it on your own. Its not a complicated thing, and its preaty staight foward. The only real issue is clearance for long tubes to fit in. It may take you a few hours and you will probably try different ways, but they will eventually go in.
might as well and get new o2 sensors. You can pick up some bosch 13111 o2 sensors for about 56.99 from your local oreily or autozone or checkers or advance auto. They are long and with stand heat alot better then the stock o2's. Get some stock header gaskets, the install took me about 3 hours. I had to grind the k member a bit on the driver side. My pass side slipped right in from the top. I was using a lift. I tightened the header bolts the first time and have not done so since I put them on. I checked them the other day and they were tight. You will need an ory or a custom made y pipe. The stock one will only work with shorty headers. Most shops charge anywhere from $200 up to $350.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2007
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Alright, so I pick up the Pacesetter LTs (Site says they come with gaskets and bolts), couple of o2 extensions and an ORY pipe. I currently have the SLP Loudmouth II on my car - will the muffler fit right onto the back of the ORY pipe, or will there be more work involved?
If you buy new 02s I would go with AC Delco, not Bosch. Do a seach and read the about the issues people have with them. I had them on my 93 T/A and replaced them with AC Delco 02s, the Bosch never worked right for me.
Your catback will fit the ORY. If you don't have a lift, then you will need to get it pretty high off of the ground to get the driver's side in. It almost has to go vertical.
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You don't need the sensors, but extensions would be nice. The extension wires that ship with PS LT's require you to solder and all that jazz. Just plug and play with the extensions.
Might consider poly motor mounts while you're in there too.
Might consider poly motor mounts while you're in there too.
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On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 145
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From: bonham, tx
also if they send u the shitty paper gaskets, DO NOT put those on, i went to autozone and picked up a set of fel-pros for 11 bucks, definately shoulda done that in the first place as the paper ones blew out in 3 days. learn from my mistake...o yeh, might as well get some poly mounts as stated above...ws6store.com has poly motor mounts and tranny mount for like 80 bucks shipped...do them while your there and save urself the headache...my install took about 9 hours or so...i was using jackstands though
I prefer the hookers over the pacesetters.
Pacesetters:
1.Relocated the EGR, seems good at first but makes putting the plug wire back on the plug a lil harder.
2.Have to use a series of bolts, nuts and washers for emissions equipment.
3.Does not come with plug n play O2 extensions, you must either order them or splice them in.
Hookers:
1.EGR located in the same location as the stock manifolds.
2.All emissions equipment holes are threaded, like stock.
3.Comes with plug n play connectors.
Both hookers and pacesetters:
1.Went in without grinding the tab on the block, disconnecting the steering shaft, removing the starter, etc.....just get it high enough for the drivers side.
2.Fit and quality look about the same.
3.Are around the same price (I personally got my hookers cheaper then my friend got his pacesetters).
Pacesetters:
1.Relocated the EGR, seems good at first but makes putting the plug wire back on the plug a lil harder.
2.Have to use a series of bolts, nuts and washers for emissions equipment.
3.Does not come with plug n play O2 extensions, you must either order them or splice them in.
Hookers:
1.EGR located in the same location as the stock manifolds.
2.All emissions equipment holes are threaded, like stock.
3.Comes with plug n play connectors.
Both hookers and pacesetters:
1.Went in without grinding the tab on the block, disconnecting the steering shaft, removing the starter, etc.....just get it high enough for the drivers side.
2.Fit and quality look about the same.
3.Are around the same price (I personally got my hookers cheaper then my friend got his pacesetters).
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 381
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From: Montgomery County, MD
everyone says you have to get the car really high but i only had to get up up a reasonable amount. I was expecting to have to get the car 8 feet in the air but mine was just as high as the jack goes and i had it fine. i just trimmed part of the block on the drivers side and that went up no problem. as for skill needed you really dont need to know much excpet how to use a wrench and a extensive set of tools makes thing easier. it took me 3 days of fooling around and lots of breaks with about 3 hours of work each day tops most likely less. the hardest part for me was getting everything out then once that was done the headers went in within an hour
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 27
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I actually just had new tranny and engine mounts put in, so I'm good there.
You guys make this seem fairly easy.
Sevenstars, do you have a link as the exact hooker headers you bought? Got me interested now...
You guys make this seem fairly easy.
Sevenstars, do you have a link as the exact hooker headers you bought? Got me interested now...
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 40
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From: Waco
If you get the pacesetters, do not make the same mistake as I did and get the uncoated ones. Mine look like crap after 1.5 years.
It is not that hard to put them in. I did it in the garage on jackstands. It is helpful to have a buddy when you are trying to line up the headers with the bolt holes in the heads. I reused my stock metal exhaust manifold gaskets with no problems. Do NOT use the crappy paper ones pacesetter sends. Also, use anti-sieze on the header bolts. It makes it super easy to remove the bolts when you do a head swap later.
Also, I do not recommend getting the emissions legal headers with the EGR and AIR fittings. Pull all that stuff out and have a tuner turn off your emission codes while he turns off your rear O2's.
It is not that hard to put them in. I did it in the garage on jackstands. It is helpful to have a buddy when you are trying to line up the headers with the bolt holes in the heads. I reused my stock metal exhaust manifold gaskets with no problems. Do NOT use the crappy paper ones pacesetter sends. Also, use anti-sieze on the header bolts. It makes it super easy to remove the bolts when you do a head swap later.
Also, I do not recommend getting the emissions legal headers with the EGR and AIR fittings. Pull all that stuff out and have a tuner turn off your emission codes while he turns off your rear O2's.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 27
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These guys gotcha covered pretty well. The one thing I'd advise to get is poly motor mounts. They're easy as hell to do while you have the headers out of the way, and then you won't have to deal with a banging Y pipe.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 30
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From: Lebanon TN
I have Pacesetters on my Z71 and like the guy said above, get the armour coated ones. Mine were made to connect directly to my stock exhaust, no collectors needed. I did however put on the true dual system with magnaflow cats and flowmasters. I got them from Jegs. They have the o2 port
Last edited by Envelope Man; Apr 1, 2008 at 09:08 PM. Reason: forgot about o2 sensors