View Poll Results: Stay or Go
3.23's
18
51.43%
3.73's
17
48.57%
Voters: 35. You may not vote on this poll
Stay 3.23 or go 3.73
06-02-2008, 01:20 PM
#1
Stay 3.23 or go 3.73 Alright well the car is a 99z28 with Lt's, o/r Y, cutout, Lid,Tci3500 converter, built 4l60e. I have a texas speed 233/239 on 113 LSA that is going to be going in sometime this month. My question is should i switch to 3.73? My old cobra had 4.10's and my car now is chaning into 3rd gear where the cobra used to change into 4th. The car is mostly going to be raced from a roll since im a poor college student and cant afford a built rear. Would it be worth it to change out the gears or should i just keep 3.23's? Whats going to best from roll..I know im a ricer 
06-02-2008, 02:52 PM
#4
Launching!
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With the stall, your 3.23 will feel (seat of the pants) like a much steeper rear gear. I have a 3.73 with the vig 3600 stall and it is near unmanageable under a 40 roll. But still ridiculously fun.
06-02-2008, 02:54 PM
#5
Yesss i LOVEE my stall and will NEVER put the stocker back in there...but i just dont know i think the 3.23's might be the best bet from a roll...like i said im not going to be launching it or running at the track..probably once a year it will see track time
06-02-2008, 03:14 PM
#6
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Stick with the 3.23s, no question.
The gains going from 3.23 to 3.73, with your current setup, will not justify the cost; from a stop or a roll.
With 3.73s:
- You'll lose a bit of MPG, if you're at all concerned about that.
- You'll likely have a bit of gear whine after the install.
- You'll need even stickier tires to get any traction.
- The stickier tires and weaker gears will make it even more likely that you'll break the rear.
- The gear set and install will cost money.
With 3.23s:
- They are free, and already installed.
- They are stronger in the 10-bolt (less likely to break).
- You should be able to get a decent launch on DRs.
- MPG will be better.
- They shouldn't whine (unless they're damaged).
- 3.23 is a good all-around gear for street and strip, especially once you have a stall.
If you ever get a 9" or 12-bolt, that would be a good time to consider more gear. But for the 10-bolt, I'd stick with 3.23s.
The gains going from 3.23 to 3.73, with your current setup, will not justify the cost; from a stop or a roll.
With 3.73s:
- You'll lose a bit of MPG, if you're at all concerned about that.
- You'll likely have a bit of gear whine after the install.
- You'll need even stickier tires to get any traction.
- The stickier tires and weaker gears will make it even more likely that you'll break the rear.
- The gear set and install will cost money.
With 3.23s:
- They are free, and already installed.
- They are stronger in the 10-bolt (less likely to break).
- You should be able to get a decent launch on DRs.
- MPG will be better.
- They shouldn't whine (unless they're damaged).
- 3.23 is a good all-around gear for street and strip, especially once you have a stall.
If you ever get a 9" or 12-bolt, that would be a good time to consider more gear. But for the 10-bolt, I'd stick with 3.23s.
06-02-2008, 03:33 PM
#7
Launching!
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Stick with the 3.23s, no question.
The gains going from 3.23 to 3.73, with your current setup, will not justify the cost; from a stop or a roll.
With 3.73s:
- You'll lose a bit of MPG, if you're at all concerned about that.
- You'll likely have a bit of gear whine after the install.
- You'll need even stickier tires to get any traction.
- The stickier tires and weaker gears will make it even more likely that you'll break the rear.
- The gear set and install will cost money.
With 3.23s:
- They are free, and already installed.
- They are stronger in the 10-bolt (less likely to break).
- You should be able to get a decent launch on DRs.
- MPG will be better.
- They shouldn't whine (unless they're damaged).
- 3.23 is a good all-around gear for street and strip, especially once you have a stall.
If you ever get a 9" or 12-bolt, that would be a good time to consider more gear. But for the 10-bolt, I'd stick with 3.23s.
The gains going from 3.23 to 3.73, with your current setup, will not justify the cost; from a stop or a roll.
With 3.73s:
- You'll lose a bit of MPG, if you're at all concerned about that.
- You'll likely have a bit of gear whine after the install.
- You'll need even stickier tires to get any traction.
- The stickier tires and weaker gears will make it even more likely that you'll break the rear.
- The gear set and install will cost money.
With 3.23s:
- They are free, and already installed.
- They are stronger in the 10-bolt (less likely to break).
- You should be able to get a decent launch on DRs.
- MPG will be better.
- They shouldn't whine (unless they're damaged).
- 3.23 is a good all-around gear for street and strip, especially once you have a stall.
If you ever get a 9" or 12-bolt, that would be a good time to consider more gear. But for the 10-bolt, I'd stick with 3.23s.
damn good advice and very well written
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06-02-2008, 03:40 PM
#9
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06-02-2008, 04:00 PM
#10
I'm not making excuses for why, but on all the cars I've been around (which has been a lot) even from a 40-50 roll they have run quicker when swapping from stock gears to 3.73-4.10 gears especially if it's got bigger heads/cam. With the engine you have, I think you'd notice a big improvement at speeds under 80. I doubt you'd see much of a drop in fuel economy either because of the big cam being closer to it's efficiency range at a higher cruising rpm.
06-02-2008, 08:37 PM
#12
Are you guys seeing much of a loss in "city" driveability with the 32-3600 stalls? And fuel mileage?? I have a stock car now, but I have Hooker LT's ORY and a Borla on the shop floor, as well as a Comp Cams 216/224 .565/.585profile cam ordered.
06-02-2008, 09:04 PM
#13
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I want a stall but I had a few before on 1st gen SBC's and they are nasty on fuel mileage. I had a 2800, 3500, 3800 and then a 4500. The 2800 was the best in my 406 AFR'd Crower'd roller motor. Drove real nice with my Moser 9" and 3.73's.
Are you guys seeing much of a loss in "city" driveability with the 32-3600 stalls? And fuel mileage?? I have a stock car now, but I have Hooker LT's ORY and a Borla on the shop floor, as well as a Comp Cams 216/224 .565/.585profile cam ordered.
Are you guys seeing much of a loss in "city" driveability with the 32-3600 stalls? And fuel mileage?? I have a stock car now, but I have Hooker LT's ORY and a Borla on the shop floor, as well as a Comp Cams 216/224 .565/.585profile cam ordered.
A 3500 stall TC is VERY driveable on even a stock LS1 car. Actually, 3500 should be the minimum for a cammed car, with 4000 being preferred.
06-02-2008, 09:27 PM
#15
Modern auto trans cars have a TCC lock-up feature that is utilized by all the major aftermarket 4L60E converter builders. So once you reach lock-up (35ish mph), your cruising rpms will be about the same as stock.
A 3500 stall TC is VERY driveable on even a stock LS1 car. Actually, 3500 should be the minimum for a cammed car, with 4000 being preferred.
A 3500 stall TC is VERY driveable on even a stock LS1 car. Actually, 3500 should be the minimum for a cammed car, with 4000 being preferred.
06-04-2008, 02:59 AM
#17
((((((Administrator))))))
3.23's
BTW- There was no reason to make this poll last 365 days. Was it going to take you a year to make up your mind?
(Poll edited: 10 days! 
)
Peace,
Craig.
BTW- There was no reason to make this poll last 365 days. Was it going to take you a year to make up your mind?
(Poll edited: 10 days! )Peace,
Craig.
06-04-2008, 02:34 PM
#20
Staging Lane
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ok now i really want to drive in the passenger seat of a stalled car and see how it feels. I went from really considering a tci 2800, to a vig or yank 3200-3500, then I just said i'll go with supporting mods and i now have BMR's torque arm and relocation bracket for it and also their LCA's.