475 rwhp possible?
#1
Staging Lane
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475 rwhp possible?
i had my car for 7 years and it is close to stock with 85K. after taxes this year im gonna have about 10K to play with. got a few ??? to ask. 12 bolt or
9" what the better of the two. also wanna clutch upgrade. thinkin about the ls7 clutch. was wonderin what the difference is in stage 1,2, and 3 heads and whats makes streetable power. same with cams selections. i'm gonna also upgrade oil pump, lifters, roller rockers,injectors and coils. Was also wondering if getting a fast intake and tb is going to be to much on stock bottom. I just want to make the best of 10k. my cousin and friends are asme mechanics and gearheads and are gonna help me with the projects. all opinions are appreciated.
9" what the better of the two. also wanna clutch upgrade. thinkin about the ls7 clutch. was wonderin what the difference is in stage 1,2, and 3 heads and whats makes streetable power. same with cams selections. i'm gonna also upgrade oil pump, lifters, roller rockers,injectors and coils. Was also wondering if getting a fast intake and tb is going to be to much on stock bottom. I just want to make the best of 10k. my cousin and friends are asme mechanics and gearheads and are gonna help me with the projects. all opinions are appreciated.
#4
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With all the tough choices ahead of you, I would stick with one company and have them help steer you towards the car you desire. Otherwise, with all the choices we have with the LSX, you will drive yourself nuts trying to eek out that last 3 rwhp from 5 different companies.
#5
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10K will run out very fast when it comes to adding cubes, heads, cam, and a beefier rear end.
On a stock cube motor 475 is not difficult to get, a well specd out head cam setup will get you there along with all the boltons to include a FAST90/90.
Personally I would stick with the stock cubes but get a full bottom end rebuild with forged parts. Get a good head cam setup with all boltons as well as all replacement valvetrain parts. Then see what you have leftover and maybe save up for the rear in the near future.
On a stock cube motor 475 is not difficult to get, a well specd out head cam setup will get you there along with all the boltons to include a FAST90/90.
Personally I would stick with the stock cubes but get a full bottom end rebuild with forged parts. Get a good head cam setup with all boltons as well as all replacement valvetrain parts. Then see what you have leftover and maybe save up for the rear in the near future.
#6
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okay first off you need to read how to get 500 rwhp NA by patrick G.
i would recommend you do a lot of research before you take anyones opinion and remember, 10k will go fast when you build a motor right.
I would build a forged 347ci. get off the shelf 3.905 diamond pistons, eagle 6.125 rods, ARP studs (main, rods, head studs). get a LS2 timing chain and LS6 oil pump. get AFR 205cc or TFS 215cc ( both are proven performers for the same price), a custom cam from patrick G. fast 92/92 setup and a good exhaust.
or
forged 408 iron setup with good headers, custom cam from patrick G, fast 92/92, and stage 3 243 heads.
stage 1 = stock motor with bolt ons
stage 2 = good exhaust, intake and cam
stage 3 = big bore (4.000 or more)
however, some have used the stage 3 with a stock ls1 bore but if you read patrick G's write up you will see that the head and cam choice are crucial to making power.
and yes you will need a 12 bolt for street setups with a truetrack or 9" with locker for street strip setup. the 9" will be better for a manual car that makes power and on slicks with big rpm launches.
the tranni will need to be looked at from T56 rebuilds in the future. if you have the money get a good dual disk clutch ( about $1200), but if short on money, my ram HD works well and i have heard good things about the spec 3+ (i had a bad experience with the spec 3).
this is all my .02 so if people disagree then explain why to help this guy.
here is patrick G's write up on 500 rwhp NA
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/732392-recipe-500-rwhp-heads-cam.html
i would recommend you do a lot of research before you take anyones opinion and remember, 10k will go fast when you build a motor right.
I would build a forged 347ci. get off the shelf 3.905 diamond pistons, eagle 6.125 rods, ARP studs (main, rods, head studs). get a LS2 timing chain and LS6 oil pump. get AFR 205cc or TFS 215cc ( both are proven performers for the same price), a custom cam from patrick G. fast 92/92 setup and a good exhaust.
or
forged 408 iron setup with good headers, custom cam from patrick G, fast 92/92, and stage 3 243 heads.
stage 1 = stock motor with bolt ons
stage 2 = good exhaust, intake and cam
stage 3 = big bore (4.000 or more)
however, some have used the stage 3 with a stock ls1 bore but if you read patrick G's write up you will see that the head and cam choice are crucial to making power.
and yes you will need a 12 bolt for street setups with a truetrack or 9" with locker for street strip setup. the 9" will be better for a manual car that makes power and on slicks with big rpm launches.
the tranni will need to be looked at from T56 rebuilds in the future. if you have the money get a good dual disk clutch ( about $1200), but if short on money, my ram HD works well and i have heard good things about the spec 3+ (i had a bad experience with the spec 3).
this is all my .02 so if people disagree then explain why to help this guy.
here is patrick G's write up on 500 rwhp NA
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/732392-recipe-500-rwhp-heads-cam.html
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#8
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i would go with forged rods and pistons, arp bolts, stock crank, a good heads/cam setup (cam spec'd by pat g), 12 bolt, tex clutch, fast 90/90 (or 92/92) and pacesetter lt's with tsp duals, should get you right around the power you want and be right within your budget for everything
#9
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Full bolt ons, good h/c package with a fast 92/92. This setup gets from either a low 410 to a high possible 500. A good 50 shot of nitrous would get you there easily after your h/c/i.
#10
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things add up fast
$2500 rear end
$2500 heads and misc parts for them
so now you have to decide if you can do the rest of the build on $5000
i suggest going in stages.
do the research so you only buy once. then start with the needed stuff like chassis and rear end.
then do h/c/i and clutch
$2500 rear end
$2500 heads and misc parts for them
so now you have to decide if you can do the rest of the build on $5000
i suggest going in stages.
do the research so you only buy once. then start with the needed stuff like chassis and rear end.
then do h/c/i and clutch
#11
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things add up fast
$2500 rear end
$2500 heads and misc parts for them
so now you have to decide if you can do the rest of the build on $5000
i suggest going in stages.
do the research so you only buy once. then start with the needed stuff like chassis and rear end.
then do h/c/i and clutch
$2500 rear end
$2500 heads and misc parts for them
so now you have to decide if you can do the rest of the build on $5000
i suggest going in stages.
do the research so you only buy once. then start with the needed stuff like chassis and rear end.
then do h/c/i and clutch
That 9" is going to eat power, so that 500rwhp formula wont apply. Been there done that...lol BUT you'll have a rear you know you can trust and it's worth the investment.
You need to look down the road. Going to keep the car? Going to want more power than say 450 rwhp? Then if you buy sweet heads for a 346 they arent going to be optimum for a 408.
You need to figure out where you want to be. 475 rwhp with a 9" rear isnt happening too easily with a 346 and if it does it wont be real street friendly (power will be all up top).
So if that's your true goal you need the rear and some suspension and a step up in cubes. A 408 will make that a lot easier and streetable than a forged 347. The 347 has to work harder to get there and it will be all up top.
Just a few things to think about.
You could do a head/cam combo right now that would get you there with your current 10 bolt.
Lots of people under estimate the effects of a heavy clutch and 9" rear and 18" wheels.
#12
Staging Lane
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thanks for all the good info. a lot to think about. ive had the car this long time and i'm planning on keepin in the family for good. i hopefully can squeeze 15 k at best. definitley thinking about the new lsx block and some ls7 heads but times are tight at the moment. thanks again!
#13
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oh yeah....
and for that kind of power....there are better choices than the heavy *** ls7 clutch setup.
and there is no need to spend $600 on coils. the stockers are just fine for all but the nastiest combos.
you could probably throw together a well build 382 block with some middle of the road heads and the appropriate cam and make your goal.
it will keep the light weight of the alum ls1 block, but the added cubes will help build hp and torque. although some will argue that for a small amount more you can have the 402/408 setups. but sometimes there are small misc things that don't swap out.
and for that kind of power....there are better choices than the heavy *** ls7 clutch setup.
and there is no need to spend $600 on coils. the stockers are just fine for all but the nastiest combos.
you could probably throw together a well build 382 block with some middle of the road heads and the appropriate cam and make your goal.
it will keep the light weight of the alum ls1 block, but the added cubes will help build hp and torque. although some will argue that for a small amount more you can have the 402/408 setups. but sometimes there are small misc things that don't swap out.
#14
Banned
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^^ Very good point. You have a good ls1 so before anything happens to it you could take it and use it for a 383. Clean up the bores and use a 4" stroke crank. You could be at your budget and hp goal as stated. Decent heads not even top of the line but decent (remember that 9" eats about 19hp and ft tq) and a ported FAST92/92 combo.
Nothing wrong with the 383, I'm just used to dealing with guys who have trashed their ls1 and are needing a block.
Nothing wrong with the 383, I'm just used to dealing with guys who have trashed their ls1 and are needing a block.
#16
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*these are all approx. prices*
3k=rear end
3-4k=heads/cam/intake
500=tune
That should give you a solid *** car....
then if you want to get crazy, do some suspension or a little nitrous set up
dont over look your suspension... those components are the most critical when it comes to putting all that power to the ground.
3k=rear end
3-4k=heads/cam/intake
500=tune
That should give you a solid *** car....
then if you want to get crazy, do some suspension or a little nitrous set up
dont over look your suspension... those components are the most critical when it comes to putting all that power to the ground.