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Old 07-01-2008, 07:34 AM
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Default Under $5000 Mods

Trying to figure away out to get the most Horsepower for my buck with only about $4.5k to spend.

Im thinking new intake, cold air induction, cam/head, Headers.

Im also trying to stick with my Stock Rear atm

Anyone have experiance or knowledge of these adds and if its safe to stick with a stock rear.

Right now the car is pretty much stock besides the SLP LM Exhaust

m6 02 Ws6 btw
Old 07-01-2008, 07:58 AM
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slp LM does not sound good to me with long tubes. So you might want to sell it and get something else to go with your set up. Just my opinion. Those mods are the natural progression for a LS1 so sounds good
Old 07-01-2008, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by tmaschm
slp LM does not sound good to me with long tubes. So you might want to sell it and get something else to go with your set up. Just my opinion. Those mods are the natural progression for a LS1 so sounds good
would not suggest that you sell a perfectly good cat back. If you want to change it down the road, then do so but at least wait to see if you like it first.

Suggestions will depend on a few things, such as whether or not it is a DD. If it is a DD, then i would suggest that you wait on the H/C until after the rear. Unfortunately, the stock 10 bolt is weak and i would not rely on it to get me too and from work every morning. That being said, I would suggest

Lid
LTs
UDP
ls6 IM
Patriot/TSP ported heads (get good springs)
cam (224/224 or maybe a bit bigger depending on your threshhold for driveability)
*NEW ROD BOLTS and new bearings (trust me on this one, or join the spun bearing club)
harlan rockers (no need for YTs, just the rebuilt stockers)

That should be getting up there. Now rememeber, this setup is a ticking time bomb. Since you aren't willing to do the necessary drivetrain mods (9"/12-bolt, DS, clutch ext.), you are just waiting for something to break. Could be today, could be a year from now but something in the drivetrain will go. Good luck and happy modding.
Old 07-01-2008, 09:53 AM
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dont forget to budget for the tune for all of that stuff. The 10 bolt is a ticking timebomb. I was planning on H/C this summer but its not gonna happen due to the fact that my 10 bolt took a ****. Now im the proud owner of a new Moser 9"
Old 07-01-2008, 10:46 AM
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$1300 (AR headers or Kooks w/y pipe) + $2400 (Trickflow 215cc heads) + $400 (custom cam) + $1165 (ported fast 92mm)

Thats a little over $5000 but you will have the best of the best imo. You could also run the stock LS6 intake to save a little money.
Old 07-01-2008, 10:59 AM
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Is it a DD or Just a weekend car? For a DD --->Pacesetter l/t and ory ($500) + Fast 92mm ($1200) + 2.5 5.3L heads and 228r package from texasspeed ($1700) .... Then save up when your 10 bolt in the m6 goes
Old 07-01-2008, 12:50 PM
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Depending on how many miles your car has, the 10-bolt will last a long time, if you do not add sticky tires to your list. Your planned mods will simply relieve you of traction sooner.
Old 07-01-2008, 01:00 PM
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Right now its only a weekend driver and I plan on keeping it that way. I really have no idea on how to go about getting a cam or heads or picking a cam/head package. I try reading the sticky threads but none of it sticks.

Also has anyone heard of "Volant Cold Air Induction" looks like a twin cone instead of a box. And has what you heard been good?
Old 07-01-2008, 01:28 PM
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no sticky tires or your rear is as good as gone. idk why you dont want to strengthen the drivetrain up (clutch, rear, etc.) but if i took a guess its cuz you just wanna go as fast as possible and suspension and drivetrain dont mean **** cuz they arent fun. well, breaking stuff, burning through a clutch, that wont be too fun on your wallet.

but if you NEED power: heads, cam & valvetrain, ported fast 90/90 and youll be sittin pretty. maybe some spray too, but you better have money for install if you arent doin it yourself. also, a good tune is 300-400 bucks depending on where you go so throw that in the equation.

mass power < mid power & ability to put it down


EDIT: oh, call one of our sponsors (Pactrick G i heard works wonders) for a H/C package
Old 07-01-2008, 01:33 PM
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Would new guts in my stock rear help? Or would that just prolong the inevitable would just getting a 12" be better. Im really not wanting to spend $2000+ on a rear at least right now
Old 07-01-2008, 01:36 PM
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well, since you have an m6, youd want a 9 inch but ill let someone else weigh in on 9" vs built 10 bolt. IMHO, if its gonna break in the future, do it once and do it right
Old 07-01-2008, 01:37 PM
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STS Turbo
Old 07-01-2008, 01:40 PM
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Youll need a whole new unit. The Volant works well on the WS6 IMO.
Old 07-01-2008, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by CobraB8_ZO6
Youll need a whole new unit.
What do you mean for the rear?
Old 07-01-2008, 01:55 PM
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I would do the rear, used long tubes, dumped mufflers, lid, spray, and some ET Streets.
Old 07-01-2008, 03:39 PM
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supercharge!
Old 07-01-2008, 03:50 PM
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You can't go forced induction with only $5000, at least for a procharger.
Old 07-01-2008, 05:41 PM
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Im thinking of going with the Head/Cam package from Texas Speed

"Precison Race Components Stg 2.5 LS6 Heads & Cam"

anyone know or use this?
Old 07-01-2008, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by sslateron
STS Turbo
Skip that ****... go with an OFI turbo.. kit is under 5K.. it's a frontmount so no rearmount problems... and you can keep air, etc.. I've been looking at their stuff and it looks nice. Definitely a cheap option and makes you debate turbo vs. procharger..

EDIT: I see you're from Reading, Pa.. we drove up there to get my brothers black on black vert v6 bird
Old 07-01-2008, 06:24 PM
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moser 9", 150 shot, clutch, tune, fuel pump.

other wise your not going to have a complete car, just a roll racer.

You can only make a finite amount of power on the stock bottom end and nitrous is the best bang for buck period.....or at least requires the smallest minimum investment.

Last edited by stevegrizzle; 07-01-2008 at 06:29 PM.


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