BucFan55

iTrader: (1)

and I've hunted the search and couldn't find answers exactly that pertained to me...
First off my '00 TA A4 is my daily driver with 85K miles and as such I've gone through some of the trials and tribulations that we all have gone through (warped rotors, etc.)
I have a few questions that hopefully somebody can answer out there!
1. I've got rear end problems, not to the point that it is undriveable but the noise makes me think that possibly either the ring and pinion gear are going or the carrier bearing or both are going.
a. Is this a common thing that happens in our cars?
b. I know this is going to be an expensive deal but which would be best (gearing included) for a daily driver who doesn't see the track at all or at least very little and has but wants to get rid of TCS ?
1. Have a shop rebuild the rear?
2. Buy a new 10 bolt from GM?
3. Buy a Strange 12 bolt w/ ABS but try to get rid of TCS (can this be done?)

2. I want a spark plug wire that will last, kind of like the NGK iridium plugs I'm getting, any suggestions and what sponsor/vendor I can get them from?

3. I do plan on doing some mods down the line after the rear is taken care of... here is a list but not in order please feel free to comment on them...
a. True Dual w/ X-Pipe and high flow Cats, dumping out the back
b. Either Predator or LS1 Edit(do they have this for the Pocket PC too?)
/w 160 Thermostat
c. Aftermarket Tourque Converter(haven't investigated this one yet)
d. Possibly Strut Tower Brace and Sub Frame connectors(are these of great help/really necessary?)
e. I want to lower the car 1" what other suspension kits are good?
f. aftermarket TCA and thicker panhard and swaybars(again are these of great help/really necessary?)

I realize I've asked a lot here, but hopefully some will get answered. I plan on keep this as my daily driver but would like to make it a mean street machine!
Thanks in advance for all your help!

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

1. Might be your posi unit. Might be a good idea to remove the rear cover and inspect inside for any teeth missing off gears, metal fragments, etc. No, its not really common for a stock A4 car to damage rearends. M6 guys can sure bust them though (more shock loading). Have a shop rebuild it if necessary, I'd recommend 3.42 gears for your daily-driver. Might find a used set cheap from an M6 owner that upgraded.

2. Stock plug wires are probably the toughest ones out there. Many, many of our veterans here running 9s-11s use stock wires. They aren't as pretty to look at, but they take the abuse and don't fall apart as easily.

3. True duals aren't necessary for performance gains. You should be able to handle 400-450 rwhp just fine with a 3" midpipe and cutout. After that you would just upgrade to a 3.5" midpipe and cutout. True duals just add weight, and less ground clearance. But, they do sound cool.

definitely recommend subframe connectors. Keeps these cars tight and rattle-free. The sooner you get them on, the more future rattles you prevent. STB optional, really only noticeable if you go autocrossing or enjoy hauling *** around corners. For daily "normal" driving, its not noticeable.

BucFan55

iTrader: (1)

NineBall:

Thanks for the info!
1. I thought that is was pretty unusual for an A4 to be having problems with the rear, but this is the second time I've had rear problems. I guess rebuilding the rear is the way to go as far $$$ is concerned. What about that stupid TCS? Can I get rid of it or at least have it turn on when I want it to instead of when I want it off?
2. Stockers it is then thanks!
3. Duals just sound so cool don't they? About the weight thing though, if I keep the piping down to 2.5"(probably defeating the purpose here) I thought I'd be lighter than stock? I can't explain it but I want to avoid cut-outs. Are you suggesting going the ORY with some kind of catback?
Any suggestions for the SFC's that bolt on and who has them sponsor-wise?
Any comments on the TCA, panhard and sways?
Thanks again!

Jorday

I have nearly every mod you listed.

I would suggest..

strut tower brace didn't to much for me, I ended up not using it.

The stock plug wires do work great, and they are tough.

My duals with x pipe setup is probably not any heavier than a y pipe with a catback because I have turndowns before the axle. If you were to go all the way out the back, the stock y pipe style setup would probably be lighter. The reason I went to duals is I got tired of opening and closing the cutout, plus the sound thing. I think the cutout with off road y really sounds like crap.

Jordan

BucFan55

iTrader: (1)

Jordan:
Thanks for the info!
STB is off the list now!
I'm not too keen on the dump before the axles, just cause of the reverb inside has got to be just as loud as a cut-out right?
Did you do either one of the tuners? What was your take on them?

I forgot to also mention going to get the Suncoast Creations Raptor hood with RamAir kit...

Jorday

I have LS1 Edit and do all my own tuning. It works great. I got my big cam to idle, adjusted lots of stuff on the trans, programmed for new injectors, and lots of other stuff.

My car is very loud with the turndowns, but I only have bullet mufflers. I hope to quiet it down with some different mufflers.

Jordan

BucFan55

iTrader: (1)

Jordan:
Do you have to have AutoTap or something else to use in conjunction with LS1Edit? I saw somewhere that you can get LS1Edit for Palm, do you know if it would work with a Pocket PC?
Also would the LS1Edit too much for the basic stuff I'm looking to do? I'm not planning on doing motor mods internally. Wouldn't a predator be more up my alley?

Have you thought of dumping your duals out the side before the rear wheel with tips? I've seen one Camaro with them and it looked sweet and sounded awesome... I just don't think it would look good on my TA that's why I want out the back rear dump...

Jorday

I have borrowed autotap from a friend a couple of times, I really need to get it for myself. I don't know too much about a predator. If you aren't going to mess with the engine much, you may not need LS1 edit.

I've thought about the side thing before, but never really gave it any serious thought. I need to change my mufflers before I do anything else.

Jordan

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

SLP sells a module which automatically turns off your TCS (defaults off) and makes you turn it on when you want it. Costs about $50 I think. I wouldn't personally get rid of TCS, I've owned an LS1 f-bod with and without it and it works great in the rain. You KNOW it rains alot in FL

Tony

Jorday

I gotta have TCS because I run into snow in the winter.

BucFan55

iTrader: (1)

Tony and Jordan: Well I wasn't overly thrilled with TCS but when I bought her all the dealer had was TCS on all the A4's... yes, rain is always a factor here in FL, I will have to check out the SLP module... Ugh snow! That's why I live in FL...

BucFan55

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking predator would probably be my best bet... $$$ wise especially!

S2002S

Regarding the STB...I did notice a difference after the install, but I do like to take corners! They are not too expensive and are easy to put on.

BucFan55

iTrader: (1)

Tony,

I mentioned earlier that I am thinking about getting the Suncoast Creations Raptor hood with their RamAir kit...
My question is can the FRA mod and SSRA work in conjunction with this? I can't think why not, but it seems like a kind of weird set up (seals to the inside of the hood scoops section as opposed to a lid).
Also what advantage (rwhp-wise) does the smooth bellows give, if any?
-Christian