So, I'm trying to decide which way I should go.

I got some other works to compleate first, (suspension/LT) but want to know which direction I'm should be going in.

Should I go N2O, or Heads and Cam?

How much $$ is each roughly going to cost?(All surporting mods included)

Which is easier to install?

What expensive surporting mods are MUST haves with these power adders?

I like the idea of spray (power when you want it), but think H/C might be more reliable.

Both of these may be too much $$, and I may just end up going with a cam & stall. How much hp could I expect to make with just these?

I'm not looking for huge hp, but would prefer SAFE and dependable for my baby.
I should add that I don't really drag race, and it's more of a street car, 35mph / 85mph range is where I need my power. So which power adder fits my needs best???

 

Why not both? Or just do 100 dry shot for the cheap, then cam only. Then with more money, heads, and step it up to a 150 shot. Cost for spray, you can get away for 500, but I would say 1000 so. I would up the injectors and fuel pump no matter what you do. Tune also, so another 500 there. Cam only, with all supporting headwork, like springs and push rods and such, about 7-800 from TSP for their cam kit. Both around the same price if you use quality parts, and have a good tune. Maybe do cam only, then step it up to some nitrous after you are no longer satisfied with the power. Then heads later on down the road.

 

How much money do you have? Thats the most important question. Without cutting corners a complete nitrous kit will run ~ $1000-1200. Even more if you can't install it yourself with all the wiring.

H/c will depend on which head castings you go with and how many corners you cut with all the smaller parts that go along with a H/C install. Again, can you install it yourself? If not budget for labor on that.

Also both setups will need to be tuned which usually run $400-500.

By looking at your mod list you don't have headers or a stall yet so I would go with a nitrous kit only considering the two options you listed.

 

cam/spray...imo....how much can u spend?

 

That is why I said 1000 to be safe for the n20 set up. Cam only would be around the same price. You COULD get away with a n20 set up for 500, but that would leave a lot open, and I honestly wouldn't do that.

 

My whole nitrous set up cost me $500.
I bought a used kit for $370, that had the kit, bottle heater, purge, window switch. Then I spent another $100 on wire, switches, jets, and extra little hardware.
It was around $500 after everything.

Nitrous kit is sold now. Made good power though.

If I were to do it again, I would go cam only.

 

should do the stall before anything else ... or ure gonna waiste it ... why not read the sticky ... how to be fast? ... i think that will save some heartache ... but as for my two sense ... heads and cam if u can afford it is the way i would go, u can always dry shot it later o and ure waisting ure money without a full exhaust to

 

I'm not a n20 fan so I say h/c and then start saving for a procharger.

 

h/c so you have it all the time

 

I bought a stock 02 WS6 and slapped a 150HP kit on it with the help of HPTuner Pro. In total, I spent ~$1300 for everything. Total downtime was <1 weekend. My car ran 12 flat (could have been high 11s but my driving let me down) at the track with Nittos cutting 1.7 60' times - ON FULL EXHAUST THRU MANIFOLDS. The car dyno'd over 440WHP and nearly 500WTQ.

I've since done several supporting suspension upgrades (easily over $1500) in the interests of:

This year I'm putting in CNCd 243s and a .598/.598. The price tag is going to be over $2k easy all things said and done. Total downtime for this has been several months (because I'm building the bottom end @ the same time and my machine shop sux), but probably would have STILL been several weeks going the route of removing the engine-Kmember-trans as one. I expect the H/C setup will produce ~410WHP/440WTQ.

I'd do it again the same damn way if I had the choice. The car is a blast to drive on the juice. It'll be killer on the motor AND the juice. Can't wait to fire it up!

-Eagle

 

That's bunk too. I can go cruising for a weekend on a single 10lb bottle @ just $30/refill if'n I need one. I was able to drop the N2O and do other supporting upgrades while having fun WHEN I WANTED TO and not stressing the stock motor @ 450HP every time I floored it.

Have you ever sprayed a car? I've done F/I & H/C/I cars before I'd done this N2O setup. I love it and think its a GREAT first step for anyone able to tune their cars.

-Eagle

 

And finally, like my wife just stated, when you blow it up - YOU CAN H/C/I it then!

-Eagle

 

werd

 

Go with a KB!!!

 

Thanks for all the replys.

Yes, a full exhaust is on the menu, with catted y proberly.

I guess my budget is between $1500 and max $2000, I could spend more, but I can't really justify spending the extra.

I'd love to do both, but hey, if money was no object, I'd of bought all the parts already!

I really don't want to go breaking things, and from the mod guide, the only safe way for N2O is DP, and that sounds like it could get pricey with all the surporting mods.

The install I can proberly do with help from my father, cutting labour costs.
Since I live in the UK, shipping costs & taxes put the price of large/heavy parts up a fair bit.

H/C sounds like it'll be more expensive than 2k, so I will look more into safe wet/dry spay.

If I do a stall and cam only (full exhaust of course) what sort of numbers will I be looking at?

Like the mod guide says ' come up with a realistic plan before starting out '.
I know I'm looking a way down the road here, but I don't want to start modding blindly, and would like to plan where I'm headed.

Thanks for all the advise.............

 

1) Good choice on self labor...lets you buy more **** lol. Shipping will suck, so maby look around for good used parts over there. I doubt they would have quite the selection we have though.

2) I would do wet. Pay the extra money, and make sure you have everything you might need. Might be pricier in the end...but better then having to buy a new motor for half assing the set up.

3) I would say high 380s to low 400s from what I have seen here. Stalled autos take a lot of power away....but dynos aren't everything. A stalled auto/cammed car is a hell of a monster.