on my life
new to n20 and going crazy
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10.5 is pretty rich then changing to a tr-6 could make it even richer.
First i would mak sure the notrous if firing by removing the nizzle pointing it away from mthe car and grounding the trigger. the plumb should be powerfull and want to push the line also it should be a bright white.
If thats good go for a ride and go to wot then hit the arm to have it come on and let it get a af reading. IF its in the low 10's or 9's start leaning it out to see if it gets better.
The problem with the pop and bog sounds rich to me.
First i would mak sure the notrous if firing by removing the nizzle pointing it away from mthe car and grounding the trigger. the plumb should be powerfull and want to push the line also it should be a bright white.
If thats good go for a ride and go to wot then hit the arm to have it come on and let it get a af reading. IF its in the low 10's or 9's start leaning it out to see if it gets better.
The problem with the pop and bog sounds rich to me.
Did you make sure the nitrous is spraying? if you get only fuel it will pop and bog for sure. Know anyone else with a bottle? hook another fresh bottle up. Could have been a bad fill.
Also try doing it with the bottle turned off but armed does it do the exact same thing? that would give you an idea.
Also try doing it with the bottle turned off but armed does it do the exact same thing? that would give you an idea.
Also, IIRC, you stated your plugs are gapped at .050, that is a little wide and i would get em closer to .030. My #7 street plugs i run at .028 gap. Might be blowing out the spark as part of your problem. The Autolite plugs that white suggested are good plugs and likely what i will be going to once I use up all of the NGKs we have. the TR6 plug, IMO, for anything over about 150 is junk, and maybe even prior to 150, lol, but seems to be the industry standard.
Robert
Robert
I would agree a 6 might not be optimal but should not cause the issues he is having.
Did you regap the 6's to .050? they come ~.035.
Robert FYI. those auto lights are harder to melt so work your way up. once they show you a sign and even just start tyo get a tip the piston is probably hurt. Id get it dialed in on ngk's then swithc once your tune is perfect.
Did you regap the 6's to .050? they come ~.035.
Robert FYI. those auto lights are harder to melt so work your way up. once they show you a sign and even just start tyo get a tip the piston is probably hurt. Id get it dialed in on ngk's then swithc once your tune is perfect.
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Did you make sure the nitrous is spraying? if you get only fuel it will pop and bog for sure. Know anyone else with a bottle? hook another fresh bottle up. Could have been a bad fill.
Also try doing it with the bottle turned off but armed does it do the exact same thing? that would give you an idea.
Also try doing it with the bottle turned off but armed does it do the exact same thing? that would give you an idea.
with the bottle off i hit unit it bogs from fuel but no poping and etc
Thread Starter
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Also, IIRC, you stated your plugs are gapped at .050, that is a little wide and i would get em closer to .030. My #7 street plugs i run at .028 gap. Might be blowing out the spark as part of your problem. The Autolite plugs that white suggested are good plugs and likely what i will be going to once I use up all of the NGKs we have. the TR6 plug, IMO, for anything over about 150 is junk, and maybe even prior to 150, lol, but seems to be the industry standard.
Robert
Robert
so i figured it couldn't hurt anything so i tryed it
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I think your suffering from a misfire and thats why the wideband is showing rich. I dont get how the plugs have a white tip with it running that rich though. How long do you drive it after your nitrous runs before you check the plugs?
I would go somewhere where you can safely use the nitrous. Then hit it, quickly stop, shut off the engine, then pull plugs and check them. This will give you a better reading of whats happening while the nitrous is on.
I would go somewhere where you can safely use the nitrous. Then hit it, quickly stop, shut off the engine, then pull plugs and check them. This will give you a better reading of whats happening while the nitrous is on.
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I agree with Robert. We need to back track to when you weren't having issues. First and foremost, we need to get those plugs back out and get them gapped correctly. Any troubleshooting without first doing this in my opinion is a waste of time. While their out, inspect them. Are there any cracks in the porceline? Are the wires in good shape? All of the connectors still in-tact? I only say this because once you did a plug change things went awry. And since its all coming out again, just check it.
If you're also seeing that low of an a/f, you can lean it out slightly with the Interface. Just start out in small incriments and make certain your wideband is accurate.
Nick
If you're also seeing that low of an a/f, you can lean it out slightly with the Interface. Just start out in small incriments and make certain your wideband is accurate.
Nick
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I think your suffering from a misfire and thats why the wideband is showing rich. I dont get how the plugs have a white tip with it running that rich though. How long do you drive it after your nitrous runs before you check the plugs?
I would go somewhere where you can safely use the nitrous. Then hit it, quickly stop, shut off the engine, then pull plugs and check them. This will give you a better reading of whats happening while the nitrous is on.
I would go somewhere where you can safely use the nitrous. Then hit it, quickly stop, shut off the engine, then pull plugs and check them. This will give you a better reading of whats happening while the nitrous is on.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2008
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I agree with Robert. We need to back track to when you weren't having issues. First and foremost, we need to get those plugs back out and get them gapped correctly. Any troubleshooting without first doing this in my opinion is a waste of time. While their out, inspect them. Are there any cracks in the porceline? Are the wires in good shape? All of the connectors still in-tact? I only say this because once you did a plug change things went awry. And since its all coming out again, just check it.
If you're also seeing that low of an a/f, you can lean it out slightly with the Interface. Just start out in small incriments and make certain your wideband is accurate.
Nick
If you're also seeing that low of an a/f, you can lean it out slightly with the Interface. Just start out in small incriments and make certain your wideband is accurate.
Nick
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I hate to tell you but that looks melted not chipped and there appears to be speckling on the ground strap. Are you sure that wideband is working and calibrated? I'm beggining to wonder if you might have done damage on that cylinder when the stock plugs were in there. What cylinder is that?
Nick
Nick
I would double check that the injector on that cylinder is functional and plugged in.
Easy way to verify cylinder is a leak down. Do you know anyone that has one so you can see if there is any damage?
Nick
Easy way to verify cylinder is a leak down. Do you know anyone that has one so you can see if there is any damage?
Nick
AFAIK the autolite AR-472 is as cold as it gets in that plug style.
Can you post pics of the other plugs you pulled out besides the damaged one?
I would agree a 6 might not be optimal but should not cause the issues he is having.
Did you regap the 6's to .050? they come ~.035.
Robert FYI. those auto lights are harder to melt so work your way up. once they show you a sign and even just start tyo get a tip the piston is probably hurt. Id get it dialed in on ngk's then swithc once your tune is perfect.
Did you regap the 6's to .050? they come ~.035.
Robert FYI. those auto lights are harder to melt so work your way up. once they show you a sign and even just start tyo get a tip the piston is probably hurt. Id get it dialed in on ngk's then swithc once your tune is perfect.
Robert
