so ive put together my first dry system on a ls1 its a sinle dry nozzle in the side of the intake and then i have a hsw interface soo my first bottle worked fine but my afr was about 10.5
but before i the next bottle i put tr6 plugs in(had stock ac delcos with the first bottle)
now with the tr6s the unit does work at all upon hiting it it pops and has no power increse although my afr is good
so i did investaging and my plug are like new but with a white tip
next i had found that i had the timing retart set wrong on the interface(i had only the dip switch for four deg turn on)
so i set the interface properly(the dip switchs 1,4.8 on to retard 3 deg)
but it still pops and does not work havent check the plugs yet i will tommorw but i just dont understand if its the plugs or if i messed up my interface or what the deal is btw im running .060 jet and have the interface set at 150 fuel any help would be greatly appraited
and hsw is there anyway to find out if i messed up my interface and now it isnt pulling any timing?

 

bottle full?

 

There are so many possibilities with what could be going on. Jump over to the tech section and we can try and walk you through diagnostics.

Thanks.

Nick

 

What size injectors?

150 will be too much for stockers with a dry shot.

 

yes the bottle is full but i did accidently over heated it and had the pressure at 1300 but did not hit it untill it went down to1100 and also try again at 700 but still the same btw im using a aem uego wideband to read my afr

 

thought so too before i did the unit but my afr is going pig rich so i dont think its a lack of fuel plus i did not have this problem with my first bottle i ran through it but its a possiablity

 

Hmm, not sure then.

But from everything I've read...some people have gone lean on smaller shots and the 26# injectors.... cars with stock 28.8 can get away with a little more...

The popping might be a lean condition...it was on my car.

Your injectors could still be way maxed out..

 

i was thinkin that my s

 

If we knew what car you we were dealing with it would make the diagnostic process much easier. Another guy had the same problem and it was a simple wiring error and he did a nice step by step recorded how-to install after that, but it's for an LTx car, so...
Robert

 

haha, yes i did run into some issues but with the help of the guys at HSW, Robert, and some beer we got 'er runnin great again. I would do what Nick suggested and head over to the tech section. Have you tested the interface at all, it does have built in diagnostics, open 'er up, follow the instructions, run through the diagnostics with the LED lights. Turn the motor on, check for the RUN light to be on, another test i did that isn't in the manual, disconnect the n2o bottle, have the engine running, activate your n2o system, again bottle not connected. The motor should stall out because of the added fuel, you now know that the fuel is being added. I also had the bottle hooked up and the n2o line removed from the intake and activated the system and watched the line to make sure nitrous was flowing, then hooked it all back up. If you have a datalogger use it to see if the timing is being pulled at the selected ammount. Again first start off by following all the diagnostics in the instruction manual, if the ON light starts blinking it is not wired up correctly and then we'll bust out my step by step and see if you have it all hooked up correctly

 

That usually helps the most.

Nick

 

ok well i did mess with it some more last night and when doing the dianostics i found the my on led does blink but my run led does not and i try hiting with the bottle closed and it practily stall out form all the fuel it recived so im going to call hsw later and btw its 02 ls1 with bolt ons and stock injecters

 

call hsw, if the on light is blinking i believe something is wired up wrong, call them, if you cant figure it out over the phone let me know, or go back in this section a day or two, and look for my post "how to: install hsw interface..." the write up is for an lt1 but the wiring will be the same to double check the relay to make sure everything is correct

 

actually here's the link

https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-o...rface-lt1.html

lets see what the guys at hsw have to say, but i'll bet ya a dollar its a wiring issue, easy to do, check out the schematic i drew and the pics i posted, stalling out from the extra fuel is a good sign, that means the interface is doing its job, you probably just have something going to the wrong place with regard to the relay/wot switch/grounding/etc

 

ok sorry guy to bring this back up i was out of town for a while and not able to take care of this problem
to start with ive been messing with the car all day, was not able to get hsw on the phone and online tech said it might be my plug gap? witch is at .050

i double check all my wire and every thing seems to be correct

i did the diagnostics on the interface and here it go's
when the key is on the on light blinks
but when the car is running the on light is on and the run light is on

i made a couple of pulls and even put in smaller jets(thinking im running out of fuel with the 150)

but the plugs are genarly staying the same(white tip)
i had one plug that burnt the strap of and chipped the porcelain

it seems to me that im either not pulling timing or i need a colder plug

the car is a 02 camaro with most bolt ons that made 380rwhp and 365t threw a m6 and a 9 inch
and has stock injectors

if some one could check there interface and tell me if the on light blinking with the key on but engine off and then on with engine running is normal i would greatly appreciate it

 

If it was running acceptable before the day you changed plugs (and it sounded like it was from your input except running fat), i would back step from there. Likely it's something minor. Maybe undo each thing you did that day and look for wiring that may have been disturbed.

On your a/f ratio, and this is what makes the Interface so cool, just adjust it for your shot. Yes some cars will run rich from the get go, however the Interface can adjusted in 5hp increments. So for your 150hp jet, you leave it alone (selected size/hit jet) and adjust your dip switch(s) for a 140 or 145hp shot and this will lean it out. If that is not enough to get to your targeted a/f ratio keep going down until you hit what you want. That is the key to the Interface and getting exactly what a/f ratio you desire, much easier than swapping jets as per a wet shot. It does sound like you have enough fuel system, as long as it's not going leanish on the top end, which could indicate injectors or pump running out.

A single .060 jet is about a 150rwhp shot, depending on what bottle pressure you are using. this brings up another very important factor, bottle pressure. getting the exact same bottle pressure for tuning is the only way to come up with a reliable N2O tune. So setting of the dip sws for a/f can and should only be done at the suggested bottle pressure. jetlag was right on with the injectors though, some cars can get away with much larger shots than other cars, with the same injectors. Hell I got to 480rwhp on my stock 28lb'ers and was still OK, but was starting to go lean. Then Beer and his 26lb'ers only allowed a 50hp hit before his injectors were maxed. Not sure if that was 80% duty cycle or 100%.

Just follow the diagnostic steps in the manual and should be able to pretty much pin point where the issue is coming form, and/or at least head you in the right direction. i will go look at what my lights do as i don't have the different combos memorized, lol. I know evilbeef did some in depth diagnostics so he may be able to tell your exactly what each combo of flashing lights mean. i haven't had any issues so haven't seen the different light combos.

Another area that you may want to check is all of your wiring and make sure there is a very good ground for all of the systems grounds. On our cars the grounds are so important to good readings for the electronics that i now do a dedicated ground strap from the battery to my ground collection spot. On the Vettes we usually collect the grounds at a frame factory ground strap under the battery tray area.

I am sure HSW will walk you through the diagnostic process, and I have been having the same problem on getting through on the phone, lol, but they do always call back if I leave a message.
Robert

 

robert do you think that if i had a plug that is to hot(which is what im concluding as of now) that it would cause all of my problems ive been having(poping,lack of power,and white tip on ground strap)
this is only my second nitrous system and i dont know how much plugs affect nitrous and the way the car runs with it

 

It's possible that you got some bad plugs.
Why not try a set of racing type plugs like Autolite AR-472 ?
They should at least keep you from melting the ground straps while you try to sort out your problem.
Melting grounds straps can be catastrophic because they sometimes take out the piston when it happens. It's a pretty big risk.

The autolites should come gapped around 0.025" to 0.030"
That's where I leave them to run.

 

10.5 is pretty rich then changing to a tr-6 could make it even richer.

First i would mak sure the notrous if firing by removing the nizzle pointing it away from mthe car and grounding the trigger. the plumb should be powerfull and want to push the line also it should be a bright white.

If thats good go for a ride and go to wot then hit the arm to have it come on and let it get a af reading. IF its in the low 10's or 9's start leaning it out to see if it gets better.

The problem with the pop and bog sounds rich to me.

 

do you by chance now what heat range those plugs are, i wanted to get some autolites but in the spark plug chart in the sticky somebody said that they were listed wrong?