kwhiteside

iTrader: (1)

I'm about ready to jump into this for a quick kick at the dragstrip. I've done quite a bit or research and think I have picked a very safe setup and have found detailed instruction with pics in Vette Magazine for my exact kit. I'm confident and ready to install a basic plate kit at a minimal expense to gain 1 second in the quarter.

However, safety is critical to me, and of course cost is always important. So you start looking into the add on guages, pods, etc. This is where it gets expensive.

So, I would like to start a serious discussion about the readings. Admittantly, I'm a wannabe who has just researched so I realize my understanding may be wrong, but I will humble myself and throw some thoughts out there. Flame suit on, feel free to lay the facts out there.

Fuel Pressure readings. I understand 12.5 to be rich and 14.6 to be dangerously lean. It is always said that you may want to upgrade your fuel pump. Since I'm starting a 50-150 kit, I'm staying stock, but am concerned about this reading. I consider this the most important reading. read on before jumping on me.

Nitrous Pressure. Critical to be consistent around 1000lbs or the proper air/fuel/no2 mixture will be jacked and results can be damaging. Surges, unexpected quick hits, etc. This is why bottle heaters are recommended. I've opted for the Nano Nitrous to assure the pressure and therefore figure this reading is less critical.

Wideband Air/Fuel ratio. Not mentioned as much when I research but seems to be the endall desired reading. If you read the DEX install instructions they talk about taking the spark plugs out and reading the colors on them. Why, to figure out if your are running rich or lean. Running lean with Nitrous causes damage. Why do they change your plugs from NGK 55 to NGK 6, to cool down the explosions. Why do they retard your timing a bit, more protection. All safety measure to protect against lean nitrous hits. Why not know if you are lean? My guess is because the gauge involves hooking to the o2 sensor bung which isn't as easily accomplished. It seems to me this reading might actaully be useful for road racing too. Running your cars for 20-30 minutes between 90 and 150 contant and close to red line. Engine temps soar here, lean would be real bad, rich will carbon your engine all up.

Oil pressure / water temp. Ya ya, you always have to watch these things.

Pyrometer / Exhaust Gas Temp. Air Fuel mixture seems more important to me than just the temp of the exhaust gas.

So if one went all out and spared no expense, having a triple pod with three guages for Fuel Pressure, Nitrous Pressure, A/F ratio would be really great. Probably over 1k to do that right and I'm not sure if you want to run the A/F wideband hooked up to the O/2 all the time.

I'm thinking about starting with just the fuel pressure rectangular digital readout built into the switch panel by the cig lighter, and trusting that the Nano will keep the nitrous pressure where it needs to be as that is what Nano is made for.

And Ken bends down to take cover, flame suit on, flame away

pmbmax

A o2 sensor reads oxygen . It does not show what is going on in each cylinder. how would a a remote mounted o2 sensor tell you what was going on in hole 3 veres hole 5. Did you know if you have a plug wire failer and a misfire occures it will read lean because it sees that unburned oxygen as being lean . and if you have a leak in the exhaust it is possible to see a lean reading. If a o2 sensor is as great as it is put up to be then whu do people still read plugs. And the colder plug is to detour preignition.

Noyzee

iTrader: (37)

nitrous pressure and wide band.

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iTrader: (1)

The wide band is rarely mentioned as nitrous safety equipment by i think its a must .

Nitrous , fuel and A/f gauges is what i run .

pmbmax

Most fast no2 cars not all ,dont even run correction on aftermarket computers. (FAST,Big stuff, ext.) My point is they are not accurate to the point they trust the engines to them. From my experience is get a good tune up on the motor and jet the kit . If you maintain fuel and no2 pressure it will be safe. Plugs are the only tunning aid you need with no2. reading all the cylinders thru one sensor is just asking for problems. It cant tell you what is going on in each cylinder. The small levels you are looking at i would look at investiing it in a fuel system.

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iTrader: (1)

Yea ,you gota read the plugs , but if i have a problem at WoT with my system , my wide band input shuts off the nitrous @ 12.5 instead of melting stuff .

kwhiteside

iTrader: (1)

Can you tell me what you use to monitor the AF and actually shut off the nitrous flow. I've seen this trick gauge http://www.trickperformanceproducts.com/tpp_00029.htm, is this what you use?

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iTrader: (1)

I have a plx wide band tied it into the microedge.
http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...age=1&featured



Another nice thing about a wide band is you dont have to go up on a dyno every time you want to make an a/f adjustment
and you always know what your a/f is at any given moment .

kwhiteside

iTrader: (1)

Wow, that sounds like a nice window switch / gauge. Where do you mount that? Do you have other gauges or just rely on this unit.

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iTrader: (1)

Im redooing my car right now but i have a nitrous stand alone fuel pressure and a/f gauges on the a-pillar , switch panel in the ash tray area and the microedge in the glove box .

The micro edge tied into a wide band is a killer setup imo.

BTW: The "V" bottle level gauge and heater functions dont work with a nano system .

kwhiteside

iTrader: (1)

I just read the V pdf and was wondering about how it would work with the levels and pressures. Nitrous could be completely empty and yet the pressure should still be 1000 if Nano works. Now I'm even wondering about using the Nano as it seems very important to know that you are running out of nitrous.

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iTrader: (1)

The nice thing about the nano system and the microedge is the edge will see the drop in pressure and when you hit 12.5 a/f it automaticly shuts the system off .

Nano is the shiznit .

HSW Microedge is the shiznit .

Dam , im starting to sound like a salesman ,, hehe

kwhiteside

iTrader: (1)

You've pretty much sold me on the MicroEdge. I was going to do the FJO progressive controller but I saw a used one for sale and the guy said it only locked out first gear. I'm new to this and my 2nd gear Z06 is pretty low, not sure I want to hit the juice in second.

The one thing the doesn't make sense about the micro is that it has a gauge where you could read A/F, but what good is it sitting under the armrest. If you could mount this to a switch panel somehow, would be nice.

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iTrader: (1)

I have an A/f gauge in the a-pillar so im not using the edge for a/f readings just for shutting down the system if the a/f gets to high .

kwhiteside

iTrader: (1)

You're holding out man. Lets see your gauge setup and please list the brands.

So can you take the LC-1 sensor and plug it into the Microedge, whatever gauge you have, and EFILive or HPT all at the same time?

Noyzee

iTrader: (37)

i pull my plugs after every pass.

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iTrader: (1)

Im actually switching from the plx(getting it off the dashboard) and using the Inovate DB setup in the gauge pillar pod and it has a 5v wire that goes to the microedge controller .

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/db.php

And yes , hpt can run at the same time if you wish .

Thats why your my hard core idol !

Noyzee

iTrader: (37)

wow, and i didnt even have to try out

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iTrader: (1)

dude , 8.6@155 , how could you not be my idol