Plug ???
Plug ??? So today i tested out my nitrous kit...I ran it with a half empty bottle.Its a Nos kit and its a 100 shot.Im pretty stock.All free mods,ported $ pol maf and tb, tr6 plugs, chevron 91 w/additive, cai, ory , and some sus and 410's in the rear. So i was wondering what he plug should look like ?? Its basically all white a lil discoloration and the tip was a lil brownish grey looking but everything else looked fine..... So is it gonna be ok and can i go a lil bigger like a 125 or 150 without a tune ???
Is this a wet or dry kit? I would say that plug looks alright to me. If its a wet shot I would say you could probably step up to a 125, but I am real wary of 91 octane..... we have 93 and even 100 in the pumps around here. I would definately not recommend going to a 150 on 91 and no kind of tune or tuning capabilities. If you plan to step up just keep an eye on your plugs and keep your hand held with you to see if you're reading knock. If it were my car I would stay on the 100 or step up to the 125 and either mix a little race gas in it ( a couple of gallons should suffice) or go with a TR7 and read the plugs and monitor your live data at the time of spray.
O **** see i was out in the country and had to drive a lil ways back ......Si should do it again than and shut it down and see ??? Its a wet kit a 47 nitrous and a 32 i think fuel.Thanks for the info guys .Im really thinking about jumping to a 125 and just calling it a day and maybe trying to mix a lil 100 in there real quik.Its expensive and im budget building so its hard to run that for as much as i drive the car but rather that than a motor lol
Is this a wet or dry kit? I would say that plug looks alright to me. If its a wet shot I would say you could probably step up to a 125, but I am real wary of 91 octane..... we have 93 and even 100 in the pumps around here. I would definately not recommend going to a 150 on 91 and no kind of tune or tuning capabilities. If you plan to step up just keep an eye on your plugs and keep your hand held with you to see if you're reading knock. If it were my car I would stay on the 100 or step up to the 125 and either mix a little race gas in it ( a couple of gallons should suffice) or go with a TR7 and read the plugs and monitor your live data at the time of spray.
My car has a programmer in it .But it was in there when i bought it and they didnt have the programmer anymore.....So i have no way of checking that.My car has had a o2 bank 1 sensor 1 code and a lean code for a bout a week now...But i think my cat is going out cause i hear a lil rattle in it ??? Do you think it will hurt anything.And with the knock it will just show up on the code reader as a knock right ???
My car has a programmer in it .But it was in there when i bought it and they didnt have the programmer anymore.....So i have no way of checking that.My car has had a o2 bank 1 sensor 1 code and a lean code for a bout a week now...But i think my cat is going out cause i hear a lil rattle in it ??? Do you think it will hurt anything.And with the knock it will just show up on the code reader as a knock right ???
1. You need to remove the programer from the car. The programer advances timming. You may need to pay to take it to be tuned. This would be your best bet and its much cheaper than putting a motor in the car.
2. Figure out why your car is seeing a lean code and fix it. It could be the ported maff. Replace the bad 02 sensor
3. Put the correct spark plug in the car. Looking at the picture I see its a pertruded plug so I am hoping you atleats put TR6 plugs in it...
This is just the start. I strongly suggest fixing the machanical issues before spraying. Then taking the car to be tuned. Let me know if I can be of any assistance. I want to see you have fun safely and not having to put a motor in your car due to poor choices.
Dave
The plugs are the tr6 ones ?? And the programmer does add timing huh ??? How can i check that and the fuel pressure ??? I know everything is computerized ?But do i have to have like efi live or ls1 edit or something like that just to check the timing and fuel pressure???
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I would highly recommend a tune. I know you stated that you are on a budget but a tune is cheaper than a motor. Stock pistons will come apart quick with just a little detonation on the spray. It usually takes the sleeve out of the block too. I have had this happen twice. Pay the money for the tune, put some BR7e's in it, and then go up on the hit.
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Verdad Gallardo I would highly recommend a tune. I know you stated that you are on a budget but a tune is cheaper than a motor. Stock pistons will come apart quick with just a little detonation on the spray. It usually takes the sleeve out of the block too. I have had this happen twice. Pay the money for the tune, put some BR7e's in it, and then go up on the hit.
Where do i get those ??? And how do i go about getting the programmer taken out aor do i just get it tuned and that will fix it?? Causei bought the car with it in it and have no idea what it is set at cause they didnt have it the tuner
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Waco, Tx
A tuner can undo what the "programmer" has done and give you safe boundaries for use with nitrous. It is always recommended to check your Air to Fuel ratio with a wideband oxygen sensor while the vehicle is spraying under a load. 11.5-11.8:1 is where we like to be. Especially on stock internals.
any parts store that carries NGK should have or can get them. We have them on our website available for order HERE.
A tuner can undo what the "programmer" has done and give you safe boundaries for use with nitrous. It is always recommended to check your Air to Fuel ratio with a wideband oxygen sensor while the vehicle is spraying under a load. 11.5-11.8:1 is where we like to be. Especially on stock internals.
A tuner can undo what the "programmer" has done and give you safe boundaries for use with nitrous. It is always recommended to check your Air to Fuel ratio with a wideband oxygen sensor while the vehicle is spraying under a load. 11.5-11.8:1 is where we like to be. Especially on stock internals.
