minytrker

iTrader: (13)

TA1364

iTrader: (11)

I have DD my car on br7s since the fall, no problems yet.

dannyz

So let me know how they are after 4-5000 miles.

ryarbrough

iTrader: (18)

If you're spraying a car and a set of plugs stays in for that long you're doing it wrong...

In the off season, I drive around on 9's and have never had issues in the long term

dannyz

Wrong how?

ryarbrough

iTrader: (18)

If you're reading plugs it does you no good to try and use old plugs...

dannyz

I think what your saying is that it dosn't do you any good to read plugs if you have sprayed, and then driven them for a time before pulling them to take a look.
Yes, that is true.
But after reading the plugs the right way, [ hit it with spray, shut down THEN pull the plugs before any more driving] you should be good to go.
On my current set up, my plugs are lasting 4-5000 miles.
I think I am on my 28th or so bottle of nitrous.
So what am I doing wrong?

ryarbrough

iTrader: (18)

No. What I was saying is that reading plugs with miles before OR after the hit isn't going to give you an accurate reading.

4-6k miles between plug changes on a sprayed motor is crazy.

Fresh plugs need to go in before each hit if you want to get a good read on the tune up from them.

dannyz

Yes, you have to use new plugs.
4-6000 miles crazy?
Tell me why?
The last set I pulled out had just over 5 grand and looked like they were good for at least another couple thousand easy.
Gap had widened a hair, but that was it.
So what do you have, fact wise, to back up that statement about being crazy?

ryarbrough

iTrader: (18)

If you're checking plugs like you should (at least once per track outing once you've got a good tune up in the car) and race the car regularly, there won't be such an interval between plug changes.

That's all null and void though. Why do you think you can't run a non projected tip plug for extended periods of time without problems (I.E me running npt 9's all off season)? They don't magically fail or foul because they aren't projected further into the combustion chamber.

dannyz

Now, and understand I am basing this off of less then maybe 20 posts, I have read on the forums here where folks are having rough idle issues after dd these, [non-projected] plugs after relativley few miles.
Upon pulling the plugs they have found them to be fouled.
The response to these posts have been to use tr55 plugs for everyday driving, and when you want to spray put in the non projected plugs.
Well and good.
But if you are not using a bigger shot, [ and your tune is good ] tr6's do not foul so easily and are much more suited for a daily driven vehicle.
As I stated much earlier, when you hear the same thing numerous times from different people, [ non-projected plugs fouling] you have to give it some credibility.
People on this site have been using TR6 plugs for small and medium hits of nitrous for years w/o any issues whatsoever. [ look at the archives ]
But all of a sudden, you are going to melt something if your not using non-projected plugs.
That is simply not true, and the facts support it.
Again, there are 200 plus pages in the LS-1 tech nitrous forums of guy's using TR6 plugs for small to medium hits of nitrous.
You have to give credibility to the fact that TR6 plugs are okay for certain size shots of nitrous when there is that much documentation on the matter.
But no matter the amount of recorded history on TR6 plugs, there are those who continue to say that essentialy you are on borrowed time if you run those plugs.
Not true.

Now, as time goes by and I start reading about more people having success
running non-projected plugs w/o fouling for more then a couple thousand miles then I will get off the TR6 bandwagon.

shortdog

iTrader: (1)

I've ran non-projected 7s, 8s and currently have 9s in the ride with no idling problems. It's all in the tune.

03supercobra

iTrader: (38)

Ehhh not sure if I agree with that point, if he is spraying something like a 100 shot, I don't think he would need to check the plugs every time to the track. He just needs to monitor air and water grain, and if the car has a really safe tuneup in it, then timing won't need to be adjusted (Cause we are only taking a couple degrees from N/A)

ryarbrough

iTrader: (18)

I was looking at the mobile version last night and couldn't see his sig. He said something about 150 earlier and that's what I was basing it on.

Even still, he should be looking at plugs if the weather, DA, etc. changes drastically even with such a small shot. A "safe" tune for a 45 degree day at sea level is different from a "safe" tune on a 110 degree day at 2000 feet.

DannyZ:

How about this. You want facts. Myself and several others that have posted in here are running around on plugs 4-5 heat ranges colder than stock with non projected tips and don't have problems, but that's not good enough for you.

Put up or shut up time. Go buy a set of BR6EF plugs and put them in your car. Save the TR6's you pull out. If the BR6's foul, send me a PM with pictures of the plugs and I'll reimburse you for the plugs plus $10 for changing them. How much more factual can you get.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

They are not going to foul since my tuner has tuned for them. What part don't you get?

If he tuned the car on tr6's and I plan on spraying and use a br7ef then I can see the fouling issue. I had the car dyno'd with br7ef and thats what I spray with.

NicD

iTrader: (7)

LOL, what is with this tuning for a TR6 vs BR7 to prevent fouling BS? If the tune is off it's going to foul out just about any plug and if it's correct it's not going to foul out at all assuming it's the correct heat range plug. To even imply that you will foul out a non-projected tip plug that is of the correct heat range with an a/f that is normal is stupid and shows ignorance.

I only suggest TR6 plugs to somebody who is spraying small shots like under 100, otherwise keep it colder and non-projected. Just because you can get away with running something like that doesn't mean that you should or that you couldn't be safer.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

I am trying to learn here so no sarcasm just asking a question. I have br7ef's in my car and they do not foul out and I do a good bit of street driving in stop and go, so would you say they are the correct heat range for my motor since they don't foul, even though it is non projected and 2 steps colder? I say no but they burn clean and don't foul so I leave them in there.

To go on the other side of the spectrum, will a tr55 or 6 be too hot since my br7ef's burn clean?

NicD

iTrader: (7)

BR7EFs are a good choice for just about any mild nitrous fed LS1 motor and there should be absolutely no problems driving around on those daily. As far as specifically if it's adequate for your car that would involve reading the plug after a pass to be certain.

03supercobra

iTrader: (38)

I understand what you are saying, but here is the thing, with a 100-150 shot we are only talking a couple degrees of timing depending on the tune N/A. Sure if you notice a dramatic change in air or go race at some different elevation, you should probably pull out the plugs and check them. Eventually there will come a time where you keep track of water grain and DA and know if you need to pull a degree or two or add it back. No need to pop the hood of the car

Now back to the TR6 argument, if the guy won't listen to what you are saying. You have done all that you can, I wouldn't worry about it too much.

gillbot

iTrader: (27)

After reading and listening to the experience here, I pulled my TR6's before I even fired my car up. Tossed in 7's and haven't looked back yet, that was over a year ago.