nosaj

Which is the safest and best for a 150 shot on a 02 ls1 camaro stock motor? Will get everything I need for safety and convenience.

SkullV

iTrader: (11)

I have been running a 125 shot with the HSW Sudden Impact Plate kit and their all out accessory kit for a little while now with no problems...

camaro98z28

Get an NX MAF kit and be done with it.

SuperSlow02

iTrader: (16)

Wet kit....unless you feel like spending another 400 on injectors to back up that shot. Also HSWs is having a 20% off sale right now, Im running their brute shot right now, and love it

BobDoLe

iTrader: (11)

agreed.. you'll max out your injectors on that shot.

i run a dry 150shot, but i'm running bigger injectors and the HSW interface with a push system. i feel my setup is safer than a wet system, however, if i had a wet kit and ran a few hundred pounds of nitrous through it without a problem or cause for concern, there's no way in hell i'd go through the trouble of upgrading injectors (and tuning for them) just to go dry.

Nick@HSW

iTrader: (4)

You will see this argued over and over. Valid points from both parties. I personally prefer dry, but that doesn't necessarily mean its the best for a particular application.

We have done as much as a 125 shot run on stock injectors with minor bolt ons. Anything beyond that you're looking at purchasing injectors as well. Not that its a bad thing either...its just something you're going to have to budget for.

For safety check out the All-Out package. It has everything you need for safety and consistency. We also offer everything for convenience as well, such as openers, billet brackets etc. As an added bonus, we're offering 20% off this week for labor day.

Shoot me a PM or give us a call with what you'd like to do and I'll help get you going in the right direction.

Thanks.

Nick

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

go dry and you can find a better deal than 400 on injectors. contact fic injector, they are a sponsor and have bosch remans for 200-300range. I like the dry kits for small shots(150 or less), no chance of backfire, less parts and easier to install.

nosaj

Yea, I don't want any nitrous backfires or anything like that.

Sofls1

iTrader: (16)

Both kits make power..... In my opinion, (and only my opinion) I think that the dry has a slight power and safety advantage. However, the wet kit gets the cost and user-friendly advantage.

FWIW, I run a wet kit, I like it, and am glad I went that way.

If I were you, I would spend some time searching this topic, and make your decision from there. (that's what I did) There is a vast amount of information in the archives on this topic which will most likely point you in the right direction for your needs. Just make sure you have a clear goal in mind.

nosaj

I wanted the nx maf kit for the longest, one of my buddies had the kit and it looked clean without alot of lines everywhere. I have noticed alot of people run the hsw on here. I am just worried about nitrous backfires mainly. I don't want that to happen at all. I was in one of my buddies car the other day and he sprayed it a few times, he has a wet kit. The last time he tried it had a nitrous backfire. I am just wondering which one I should lean toward the most.

SuperSlow02

iTrader: (16)

most causes of a backfire seem to be...spray too early, or a leaky noid. So take care of the system and be smart about how you use it. Im sure theres other reasons for a backfire, but that seems to be the main reasons. Window switch really helps with it all.

BobDoLe

iTrader: (11)

dry kits can backfire. go find your flame suit quick before the angry nitrous experts find this thread.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Dry can be safer no doubt. Start reading some, and you will be able to make an informed choice that fits you. Bottom line though, dry does have a safety margin over wet, and that was your main concern. Sure, in the long run a dry may cost more, but you will have less scenarios of possible problems. Tuning with a dry Plate kit and Interface is actually easier than any wet kit, so the dry is not as hard as it was in the old days to set-up. You will have everything you need to self tune with the HSW dry plate kit. Just need to get a/f ratio verified when done.

Now if you had said, the cheapest kit I can throw on and be done with it, not mentioning safety, i would say a basic wet kit. Many just bolt them on and go, regardless of the tune and do fine. It's of lower tech, so is simpler...

Myself, I have gone dry on the LSx for many years and love the hi tech advantages, though some do not appreciate this. Read, read, read and you will do fine. Look for the redundant noid thread for some insight into safety.
Robert

82cetuner

iTrader: (9)

WHat does a direct port system classify as? I have not heard it mentioned in here.

I have heard that it is the safest and most affective setup for a LS engine.

I have never ran nos but plan to on my ls1 however my ls1 has 135k makes on it but I got it cheep for my ls swap into my c3.

My mechanic is going to check out the engine and make sure everything is good to go. i only plan to run it about a year befor a rebuild.

I am willing to shell out the extra for the direct port, but if a dry system can produce the same results or better and be safer then I would rather go that route.

Mike@HSW

iTrader: (6)

Depends on what your trying to spray, 250+ is generally direct port teritory. You can run direct port as wet or dry as well. Anything below that and one our plates wether it be wet or dry will cover your needs. Wet or dry is simply a preference. My recomendation would simple come from what you already have or how you plan to setup your motor.

TARZAN

iTrader: (12)

This has been beaten to death. Do a search and decide what you prefer. I prefer wet, mainly because my injectors in most of my vehicles don't have the extra room for nitrous...

-Will

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

The direct port kits, wet or dry, allow the nitrous to be sprayed directly into each individual cylinder. Where as the typical kits, nozzles or plates introduce the fuel/nitrous from one spot for all cylinders, mostly at the TB area. This can give us better a/f ratios cylinder to cylinder, and if going wet, it will take the puddling fuel in the intake manifold out of the picture. So the advantages are safety and performance.

I chose to run a first stage Direct Port dry, currently jetted for about 175rwhp shot and plan on progressing this hit. It's a very safe and well performing street/strip set-up. you could also do this with a wet hit, although I am not a fan of progressing the kits due to a few issues. Another way to go about softening the hit is to do a multi stage kit.

The Dry plate kit comes as a single stage, but we can easily add some parts and turn it into a dry dual stage. what's nice about this is it's very simple to do at what ever point in time you would like with minimal parts. The dual stage and/or progressive have nice benefits.

We can soften the initial hit to gain traction. We can lock out the 2nd stage all together in first gear and as soon as 2nd is hit it will come on at the specified RPM and run thru the rest of the 1/4. What is really nice about multi stage is we can control the low RPM torque, and that is what destroys our engines. So we set the 1st stage to come on at 3500rpm and shut off at 6200rpm, then we chose to lock out 2nd stage until 2nd gear. Once in second gear we set the the rpm ON AT 4800RPM and run to 6200 also. Why come on at 4800rpm, well due to the rpm drop on my 6-speed I didn't want the massive torque kicking in immediately after shifting and avoid breaking loose or blowing the tranny apart. Just a simple application for insight as we can set values to what works for our car. One more thing, by splitting up the torque, with a dual stage, we can actually run more over-all HP safely compared to the all in one off the line hit. The all in one can cause breakage on stock cars, motor and/or running gear. I am a big fan of multi staging wet or dry and have currently 3-stages, and am going progressive on stage 1 too.

As Mike stated, normally the DP is rec when approaching the 250/300hp range to get better distribution cylinder to cylinder, however, we can multi stage also to get a bigger hit. I like the DP dry for a street/strip car due to how simple it really is, and tuning with the Interface is a breeze. It is also really trick looking if that is a concern. Yes some of us like looking good as well as performing good, lol. So we can certainly run a DP wet or dry at any level and not limited only to big hits.

Hopefully enough info has been posted to get the process of choosing what works best for ya all. We can clarify or expand on any subject if you guys want/need as we love talking nitrous tech, lol. Of course these days, money is a concern, but never skimp out on the safety stuff as it can save a motor for sure should something go wrong. It's really safe these days, and probably the safest it has ever been since the begining of usage on cars 35/40 years ago.
Robert

streetassasin

iTrader: (30)

both Thats what I plan on doing
Running a wot switch and a window switch set at 3000 will help out with the backfire situation

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

hey buddy, be nice, lol.

Anyone know what the limit HP wise is of the newer cars as they have like 38lb injectors, IIRC? The over all HP limit for 28lb'ers is usually about 450/480hp. I was able to go to the 480hp level on my LS6 when it was bone stock. It was starting to lean out, however, because the hit was small and it was dual staged it never was a concern (high 12s and low 13s). Most do not yet realize that the blanket statement of about 11.5:1 a/f ratio does not necessarily apply to the LSx platform. If the motor likes a 13.4:1 a/f ratio n/a why would we want to go way rich spraying? A tune with mid 12.5:1 a/f ratio spraying is much better overall. Many of the top racers are adapting to the leaner is better fact with the LSx. Rich can do more damage than slightly lean. 12.5 is not lean on the LSx platform. I plan on doing a thread on this explaining why running leaner is better. These motors have a BSFC that is great, and kills all motors of past days and that's part of the equation. Now can you see why some of these redundant questions are great? As we learn more and more about the LSx platform and the PCM stuff we can add this tech to our own kits should we want. Sometimes the simple new questions from the person not yet spraying opens the door to great tech talk.

Robert

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

The safest system is the one being used by someone that has taken time to educate themselfs and done it correctly. You have to be careful sourcing information on the chat forums. There are alot of people that post information that lead you to belive they know what they are talking about and honestly have no idea.

Truth is there is a right way and wrong way for doing either a dry or wet nitrous system.

My opinion is that with the lSX platform using the stock pcm the most reliable, most tuner friendly and best method of using nitrous is with the properly designed and tuned wet system.

Dont let anyone fool you. Both methods can be just as damaging as the other when done wrong. Everyone has there preference mostly do to only knowing certain areas. Personally I use both wet and dry and I know which applications each method are best used for..

Just my opinion..

For the LSX Platform with a stock pcm WET system hands down..
Dave